SilverECR33 Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 (edited) how have people gotten around the sway bar clearance issues using r32 mounts? Edited September 2, 2012 by SilverECR33 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6514874 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHITER33GTS-T Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I used R33 mounts with no problems Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6516067 Share on other sites More sharing options...
R32Abuser Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Modified R32 Mounts here...as per the recommendation in this thread and in the RB30DOHC guide We also spaced down my subframe but ~8-10mm (plate) and my sway bar by about 3-5mm (washers) LOADS of room in a 32 except for at the cam cover & or FMIC cross pipe where it goes over the clutch fan. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6516486 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverECR33 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 (edited) quick note for people who use teh 32 mounts in the 33. the original mounts are 70mm and the 32 mounts are 46, so you are 24 down on the bottom end. the top end you are high about 14mm (38-24). I was able to bring the top end up to 19mm using a aluminium plate which helped make all the cooler pipework line up nicely, however still not clearing the swaybar, so a 10mm plate on the bar should clear it, which should also keep the drive line only out by 19mm,. Plazmaman Plenum is an issue for bonnet clearance, and the ASR circuit sump equally on the bottom end. Edited September 4, 2012 by SilverECR33 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6518152 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Room42 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Can have a sucked in?!?!?! Anyway was trying out he antillag the other day. 25 head and 30 bottom. It has cp forged pistons and precision h beam rods. Metal head gasket etc. Made about 10 psi at only 1500 rpm. I was like "yeah man crank it up!". Saw about 28 psi at 4000rpm. Would have made it earlier maybe. I should mention that the afr for all this was about 10:1. I'm like "hmmmm" I wonder what will happen if I completely unwind the boost controller. So I did. The gauge goes to 30psi. It stopped working at about 40 psi. Car went a bit higher than that. 45, 50 maybe??? Judge by the vid bitches. Anyway the front and the back welshplugs in the head fell out. Front one was easy to fix. Cam gears off and tap the flamin mongrel back in. Ya know how the back on gets in aye. Bloody head off or hole saw through the dash. Note to self...dont try out crazy antilag boost when ya bored. That hunting aint what it seems It's me on the throttle keeping the oil there bitches. http://www.youtube.c..._id=8R2QXeSzOPs Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6566049 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYTSKY Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 That link goes to my youtube page. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6566947 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicr4wks Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Mine too. You need to use the public video link. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6582271 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudo Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 just about to start my 25/30 build (25det head.) and i am planning to run it on e85. has anyone run it on e85 out of curiosity? if so i assume it was safer tunes with more power compared to 98?? (did a quick search and i think only 1 person has) cheers. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6632358 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverECR33 Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 (edited) quick note for people who use teh 32 mounts in the 33. the original mounts are 70mm and the 32 mounts are 46, so you are 24 down on the bottom end. the top end you are high about 14mm (38-24). I was able to bring the top end up to 19mm using a aluminium plate which helped make all the cooler pipework line up nicely, however still not clearing the swaybar, so a 10mm plate on the bar should clear it, which should also keep the drive line only out by 19mm,. Plazmaman Plenum is an issue for bonnet clearance, and the ASR circuit sump equally on the bottom end. just in regards to my earlier post, there was no way spacing either the bar mounts or engine mounts enough to clear the ASR Competition sump without causing other issues ie, bonnet not closing or bar not working properly. therefore a custom bar had to be made by www.mako.com.au wish I did that first as its only $70 more than the whiteline bar.. i wish I had just got the 800$ baffled one for street/performance use. Edited November 20, 2012 by SilverECR33 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6632385 Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeny123 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 i would like to appreciate you for sharing such a great info with us Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-6942598 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fantm 34 Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 It's probly been answered before but do all r31's have provisions for oil and water? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7093289 Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuong nguyen Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Hey guys just a quick question. Can I use an rb25det crank gear on my 25/30? Is it the same thing or do I have to be using a rb30 crank gear? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7098931 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glynn82 Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 As far as I know they are the same part Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7098939 Share on other sites More sharing options...
brodielezgt Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 hey I got a question iv got a fully stock rebuilt rb 26 head, now I got a greddy intake cam can you put it stait on or do I need new lifters. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7100094 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoota_77 Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Same lifters unless the cam has a smaller base circle than the standard cams. You'll need to find the cam specs first. You will need to check your valve clearance after replacing the cam. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7100115 Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke gtr Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 agreed. if youre not confident, get a head shop to do it. worth the 1-200ish theyll charge to make sure its right. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7100249 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HR31-PASSAGE Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 does anyone know what timing tensioner stud is most common to use? & a part number? i'd call the engine builder that built the block but they are closed down now need to replace mine as the threads looking abit stuffed, its been relocated above the water pump! cheers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7156344 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoota_77 Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Just get another genuine RB26 tensioner stud. It depends however what thread was cut after the machinist drilled the new hole. You would hope they used the same thread but you'd best check first. Need one in a hurry? Go to Bunnings and get the right threaded bolt that has the same or longer shank length as the stud that came out, cut off the head of the bolt and cut a new thread on the head end, fixed! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7156700 Share on other sites More sharing options...
menthol369 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Hey guysive had a decent read of this awhile back, but now im actually midway through the build i cant find the part about the head drain and sump mods just wondering where abouts you can run the head drain from the 25det head.tap the block where the 25 would normally go on? tap the turbo drain with a large t piece? ( im guessing this is a shit idea due to the crank case pressure affecting the flow)and the common tap the sump, with this method where is better to tap the sump? up higher/lower? towards the front or rear? cheers. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7214662 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRPSI Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Oil control thread covers it all. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/ Its not a drain, its a breather...... Maybe start from about 10 pages from the end and read forward. Always above oil level, regardless of drain or breather idea. Stock turbo oil drain is above oil level, obviously to be a breather it needs to be above the oil level. Edited March 1, 2014 by GTRPSI Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/357/#findComment-7214693 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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