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Hey guys theres an engine being sold on ebay if anyones interested RB25 headhigh mount extractors for a t04 turbo with t3 flange worked with stock cams two inlet manifolds and an rb 25 block Rb 30 block pistons and rods i think for the 3.0l rb block $500.Plus i think all the hard work like matching the head to the block has been done allready.He claims that he has made 770 hp from it in his race car?????Its worth being checked out.But the price may go up because of the bidding.....Worth a look. :flamed:

Thanx Gary,

 

Which valve springs do you use? A set of GTR springs should will do the job?

Hi Joel, when I said "we always upgrade the valve springs" that includes GTR's. We use Iskenderian.

rob from RIPS is a nice enough guy but what he charges for the work he does its bloody highway robbery... he want 3,400+ shipping for a rb30 converted to take a 4wd sump??????? then wont tell you what your getting done for your money???? WTF

Plus he said that would be standard internal put new bearings???? again WTF

PRIMO check back a few pages the issues of the 4wd system on the rb30 have been discussed there, if you are keen to hold off a few months i am doing all the work required to make this work and will gladley tell you step by step what it takes to make this work its not really that hard as long as you have a good machinist shop you can talk to and access to some cluey engine builder!!!

S13drifter ok when you get urs done let me know i assumed it would not be hard if you had all the machining equipment ,

It is only a slab of steel used to replace the main bearing cradle and also bolt to the exsisting sump bolts ussing resessed bolts the utilising new bolt holes for the 4WD sump am i correct ?

i would assume this would relieve any stress on the block also.

S13drifter ok when you get urs done let me know i assumed it would not be hard if you had all the machining equipment ,  

It is only a slab of steel used to replace the main bearing cradle and also bolt to the exsisting sump bolts ussing resessed bolts the utilising new bolt holes for the 4WD sump am i correct ?  

i would assume this would relieve any stress on the block also.

HOLY CRAP. I started at page one. I looked and there was 8 more pages so i went to last and i find out there is 50+ pages.... eek... Anyway great thread. I am looking to to the RB30E.

Does anyone know what the stock specs on the RB30E is? I love in the states so where would be a good spot to buy an RB30 clip or motor set?

S13drifter ok when you get urs done let me know i assumed it would not be hard if you had all the machining equipment ,  

It is only a slab of steel used to replace the main bearing cradle and also bolt to the exsisting sump bolts ussing resessed bolts the utilising new bolt holes for the 4WD sump am i correct ?  

i would assume this would relieve any stress on the block also.

The RB26 main bearing cradle is separate from the sump mounting system, same as RB30. The only difference between the RB26 block and the RB30 block at the sump mount is the RB26 block is much wider (mostly at the rear) and has extra threaded holes (further out) to mount the sump, diff and transfer shaft to.

Guys;

Has anyone actually done this and had good long term success in terms of durability and power? I'm keen to do it but a shop in Sydney who has a lot of experience with GTRs and the RB30 conversion on other cars has warned me against it, saying that RB30 blocks are too weak to continually take the torsional stresses of a high power 4wd and are prone to cracking (whereas a 2wd will just light up the rears). I'd be more than happy with 400 4wkw, which it won't see regularly and as it's a daily driver it's the torque I'm after.

I understand RIPS in NZ has a strong GTS4. They don't appear to have a website so I've sent an email and will follow up with a phone call later to see if I can find out more from them.

Thanks for any feedback.

Done some more research on suitable timing belts. Dayco have a belt the same profile as a 94407 (152 teeth) but with 150 teeth, Part no. 94777. This could be used with 2 adjustable tensioners in the factory locations as per the Gates belt setup in Joel's guide. Only issue is this belt is 23mm wide rather than the factory 25mm. Dayco tell me this is not a problem, but they also follow up the e-mail with a disclaimer.... "however please be mindful as we don't list this belt for this application you have requested there will be now warranty to cover consequential damage should something go wrong - we'll cover the belt, but that's it." Probably standard arse covering fare, but it makes me uncertain if it will do the job.

I realise the 94407 will do the job, but why drill & tap another hole and risk ****ing it up if i don't have to.

I'm interested to hear others thoughts on the 23mm belt. Will it hold up to 500 BHP??

heres a rough pic of what the spacer/girdle has to look like to adapt the rb30 block to the rb26 sump (sorry for the crudness of the picture had to be made small and rough to fit).. PRIMO as gary mentioned the crank girdle has nothing to do with the conversion exept the rb26 one has the windage tray as part of the girdle and the rb30 has it in the sump you can either tap holes and fit it to the rb30 girdle or as im doing use the rb26 girdle and get the block and girdle squared and line honed!!!

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