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i have for sale a half completed engine block details as follows, sale is forced to to other comintments and the sale of the donor car , so i have this engine ready to be assembled

RB30 block troque plate bored honed suit pistons

wiseco rb25det piston set inc rings

Eagle H beam rods

crank debured shotpeened balanced crack tested etc

acl race bearings suit reground crank with specifications i supplied

main bearing stud kit

head stud kit suit GTR head

to date this has cost trade pricing approx $4500 so if you want it let me know

also rebuilt OS Giken twin plate to suit $1200

gtr N1 oil pump new or secondhand avial

Gtr head complete avail

any other assoiciated parts i have or will supply

this engine is ready to assemble and check for blue printing

if required it can be assembled at reasonable rates

any interest email me please [email protected]

I have to say peoples.. You really have to drive an RB30DET to fully understand how much more power it really has.

Not to mention how worthwhile it is compared to rebuilding a rb20 or rb25.

They sound awesome with the way it rev's as you accelerate down the road.

All you can think of is a big angry monster.

No thrashy feeling and what suprised me the most is it rev's much much quicker than a rb20 or rb25.

Free reving; tap the accelerator the rev's will flick up effortlessly. Very quickly. There is no dougy feel like any of the rb20/25's or sr20's I've driven.

The RB30's are not slow reving motors, extremely responsive and extremely free-reving. :)

:)

Yeah definitely joel.. at the moment I am still driving my R31 around till my r32 gets here.. and even though its only got the SOHC version of the RB30 of course, its a great engine that revs very freely and never is really struggling for power, even in auto form. I love thrashing that thing around the streets :) For a 1300kg, 6cylinder car its got some good acceleration going for itself.

So everytime i drive that I try to picture my old RB25DET combined with some of the better bits of the RB30E and a smile comes to my face..

So what stage is yours at the moment? So you have it running just in n/a form at the moment?

Hello all , just spent 4 days reading this thread . Burning question - can I get an RB30DET into a DR30 , if its tight in an R32 i could find problems .

I will be starting out with nothing so whats the cheapest combination of mechanicals and electricals ie RB30E + RB25DE + RB20DET exhaust manifold and top half of inlet manifold + computer and loom . About the only RB thing I own is an RB20 ball bearing turbo . I will not require non std rods or pistons , just rebuild to std spec . Things like R32 oil pump (good used) and piston oil squirters are on my list . I also live in Sydney and really would like to speak to Gary (Sydneykid) . Gary RB25DE found at $900(Engine) or $1300 front cut , is this OK ? Lastly I really like the idea of the R32GTR six throttle inlet system . Assuming it fits the 25DE head is it worth the expense for a road car ?

Before I go If people need info on HKS BB turbos search HKS USA and for Garrett stuff lots of info at ATP Turbo.com . You will not see very many 7 bladed compressor wheels ie TO4S mentioned as they have been superceeded by both the TO4E series and the later BCI-18C 6 bladed wheels . Also a lot of confusion exists around Turbo designations ie HKS GT3037 56 trim and Garrett GT30R . In truth they are the same core . This is getting a bit off topic but feel free to ask any questions about the Garrett GT BB turbos . I don't know it all but I'l help if I can .

Cheers and thanks for a great thread , Adrian .

discopotato03,

You would really have to price the bits up yourself and work out which is the cheaper way.

$900 for a complete engine is fairly decent.

Don't worry about piston oil squirters.

A bloke on the calaisturbo forums wired up the coils to fire in batch mode, I am unsure what he did with the CAS but he has it working with the stock RB30 ECU. He used RB30E injectors.

your definatly correct joel. It is a very easy reving motor. At any time it will put power to the wheels and just keep going.

I have a question for you still running it on the STD R33 ECU.. What other mods do you currently have on the car as well as your RB30?

How are your A/F ratio's etc?

Just curious

RIPS do an excellent one - see pic below. Keeps all factory sensors, unlike the Sub Zero and Greddy ones...It uses true short runners, unlike the cut and shut job Sub zero style....

 

His email is [email protected] - Damn good quality if you ask me...he does kits for any type head you have for $1500 NZD ($1350 AUD) comes painted in your choice of colour too :D

Hi I have an R33 GTST and I wanted to know if you knew about the Greddy inlet Plenium. Is this better than the custom made ones in Australia and does this include the throttle body. If so how much am I looking at to buy one of these?

I have a question for you still running it on the STD R33 ECU.. What other mods do you currently have on the car as well as your RB30?

How are your A/F ratio's etc?

 

Just curious

Joels isnt in the car atm. He hasnt got an r33 either, its a r32.

Mine has a pod filter, Q45 AFM, 550cc inj, bosch 044, 600x300x76 intercooler, os twin plate, r33 gearbox, single piece tailshaft, high flow rb20 steel wheel turbo, 3" front pipe & 3" cat back. Engine...well lets say no change from over 5k....forgies, balanced, ported head etc....

thats it. I dont know af ratios....thats how much i trust the tuner, Shaun. He ran it to check afr's then had to pull fuel from the AP Engineering base map.

Only doing 1000ks with negative pressure, then dump oil, change check afrs again, then go to 5000 (varying revs, under load to 5k max) another oil change, and a full power run all out :D

Not that i cant wait to give it some now :D....it truly does have INSTANT spool (ie positive pressure) on the rb20 turbo....unbelieveable compared to the rb20....

Hi I have an R33 GTST and I wanted to know if you knew about the Greddy inlet Plenium. Is this better than the custom made ones in Australia and does this include the throttle body. If so how much am I looking at to buy one of these?

i believe you cant fit the rb25det greddy plenum on the rb25de head, and they dont make one for the rb25de head anyway. Rob uses the rb25de runners and make the manifold from there. Believe me, his welding is a work of art. Im an ADR welder myself (qualified for Australian Design Regulations) and his work surpasses most ive seen.

His kit comes with all thats needed to plug it in. Modified water lines, painted in your choice of colour, modified rb25 tb or modified to fit a q45 90mm tb, modified throttle cable. He told me all that is needed to plug one up is to extend the tps wires to reach the new position of the tbody.

Im buying one for mine, and i hope to get over 330rwkw (easy ive been told) Roughly $1500 NZD or $1350 AUD depending on exchange rate.

Joel , can I use the RB25DE (R32) loom , computer and MAF for the basis of the RB30DET . Can these computers be chipped to use larger injectors and Q45 MAF later or is the R32 RB20DET loom/computer a better combination . Since I have nothing to start with which will be the least limiting . I noticed in your PDF that I need to get a computer that does sequential injection/closed loop/6coil drivers/knock sense . Can I assume all the nissan ECU's do this ?

Lastly can Gary (Sydneykid) or any one in Sydney tune the R32 computers in realtime and burn the Eproms ?

Thanks Adrian .

The RB25DE or RB20DE/DET loom can be used.

The stock ECU can be chipped BUT there are a few limitations with regards to chipping the stock ecu's. You will have to ask your tuner this question first you will have to find a tuner who is capable.

Don't take the PDF as gospel its simply my views on what an ECU should contain.

Sequential Injection, 6 coil drivers, O2 closed loop and knock sensor are what I consider important. The PowerFC has all of these features and providing you get your self an AP Engineering PowerFC to suit the RB20DET it will work fine.

Sorry so many enquiries Joel . It seems the R33 RB25DET top end and computer would work best as is . Just a bit concerned about that water jacket / oil hole business . Rather than weld the head casting can it be filled in some other way so that the RB30 head gasket will work reliably .

Also can I use R32 cams and pulleys in an R33 head .

Thanks again Joel A .

The R33 ECU cannot be chipped.

Why use R32 cams in a R33 head?

Use cams that are designed for the VCT or ditch the VCT all together.

Your best bet is to keep the VCT unless you go for a wild set of cams, if thats the case I would look at a RB26DETT head.

With regards to the head water gallery issue you will have to see you cyclinder head specialist for that one.

Engine management is the biggest issue . I would prefer R32 head and computer . Silverwater Automotive Services (SAS) quoted me $1300 drive away to dyno and chip R32 computer .....?

I went back through the first 8 pages and Sydneykid quoted figures less than half that . Sydneykid - need to talk to you !

Please ! Thanks Adrian .

I have to agree with Joel on the rev happy nature of the RB30DET. There is absolutely no hint of reluctance to build revs whatsoever. I have to ALWAYS keep one eye on the redline whenever I feel the calling. The additional power has made it rev even better than the original '25 in my opinion. More torque will accelerate the car faster and in turn allow the engine revs to rise faster in unison. Provided of coarse you dont loose traction, which is almost an impossibility!!!

Just a note on the water jacket mods...I used a die grinder on the block to match the head gallery as closely as possible. Then I got a hole punch and trimmed the standard Nissan head gasket to match around that area, so as to limit the water flow obstruction leaving it intact would have caused. In the end there was probably about 6mm or so of steel left to squeeze the gasket. I had concerns initially but figured that even with such a thin clamping area the gasket still ought to seal, it is only a water gallery after all, no large cylinder pressures to deal with. In the end it turned out to be just fine.

My clutch is now begining to slip after a long arduous life. That may be the impetous I need to kick start the next angrier conversion from its hiatus, and allow me to take photos of everything I've done to clarify it for everyone. If only work didn't interfere with play :P

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