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SK , I like the idea of the RB26 head . Better cam profiles , larger valves (by how much I don't know) better and lower inlet manifold , common injector style . Was the RB26 head difficult to come by , obviously it was not cheap . I assume it can use the single turbo exhaust manifold plus coils and ignitor .

Thanks SK , A .

They'd be of interest if you own a 240Z/260Z, 280zx, 1600, Z31, DR30, or import R31.

Basically the newer R200 found in later skylines is too short for our cars.

Back on topic though, so with the 3.0L is worth dropping to say around a ~3.5 LSD you think without harming accceleration?

Would probably sit on nice low revs on the freeway I suppose.

They'd be of interest if you own a 240Z/260Z, 280zx, 1600, Z31, DR30, or import R31.

Basically the newer R200 found in later skylines is too short for our cars.

Back on topic though, so with the 3.0L is worth dropping to say around a ~3.5 LSD you think without harming accceleration?

Would probably sit on nice low revs on the freeway I suppose.

looks at my signature:

HR31 GT Passage Skyline

i think i've got 4.4's as my car was once auto and i was wondering how they would affect the 3L and its power out put. I think the 4.11 and 4.4's are in place to make the non torquey RB20 feel punchy and quick, but what will happen once the 3L with mountains of torque goes in? will the tires light up too easily?

:D

it sits nice and low in the rev range with the std r32 4.3 lsd....dont worry about extras unless its a) got to be sorted in a custom job (like drukenmaster), b)your old diff is rooted.

I always see people asking about big arsed turbos, injectors etc....how about people worry about building the motor, fitting it and getting it running......

 

I always see people asking about big arsed turbos, injectors etc....how about people worry about building the motor, fitting it and getting it running......

I will be fitting my solid fuel lines down the length of the car tonight, followed by the adjustable suspension during the week. Now it is easier to fit the diff and the rear suspension at the same time as they share mounting points, and I need to fit my new suspension in order to fit my modified front crossmember. Now the front crossmember will need to be in so I can fit my modified engine mounts to it, and those mounts will have to be there to sit my RB30DET on.

So sorting out a diff for me to pick up now is crucial to getting my RB30 fitted and running :wassup:

:jk:

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9. :)

Drunkenmaster , later I will look into a 3.7 or 3.5 ratio long nose R200 . Going from 2 litres to 3 should pull this easily . From memory VL's used a 3.45 std with a 3.3 1st gear (NA) .

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9. :)

Can someone tell me what valve sizes in RB26 and if ports/stud patern on exhaust side same as RB20/25DET .

No, this is like Groundhog Day. Nissan don't want you swapping GTR bits onto cheaper cars, so they designed it so it was different. :)

Hi,

I'm new to the forum and must say that this thread is oustanding, credit goes to everyone who has contributed.

I recently picked up a r33 GTST with a blown bottom end and after reading this thread i know what bottom end i'll be using.

I have purchased a GT3040 (0.82 exh ) to go with the new engine.

I have a question.

What parts will fit into the RB25DET head from a GTR head?, I have read in another thread that it's possible to use GTR cams in an RB20.

I got my block last week and after removing the head gasket noticed that there was a '2' stamped on each of the pistons and next to each cylinder on the deck. Is this an indication that the cylinders have been bored? The hone in the cylinders is pretty good considering the engine has 200,000k on it

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    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
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    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
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