R33 Rb30 Conversion

[retrotec]

p.s. where do you get new studs for them from? they have two different threads on each end :confused: which is weird, i imagine they'd have to come from nissan..... i shudder to think of the price

I bought 2xRB30 studs from Nissan, it's only $5.

I'm not using the smaller studs where the spring sits up against.

[StockyMcStock]

Just wondering, has anyone pushed an RB30DET hard with a standard exhaust manifold from an RB20? I *think* i can get a GT35/40 1.06 rear on the thing without hitting the strut tower (VL bogandore) but am a bit worried that it will be horribly restrictive.

Porting the heck out of it might help though, so has anyone done it and achieved good results? external gate will be going off the turbine housing.

p.s. looking for a maximum of 300rwkw at the absolute most.

[Bl4cK32]

might need a spacer plate to use it on the std rb20 manifold....

Why not try source a cheap HKS cast manifold? They can be had for half the cost of them stainless tube ones

[StockyMcStock]

i've seen them, they look similar to the standard ones can't see them being a whole lot better in terms of performance? anything that just adds the cylinder outlets into a single log one by one is not really going to be that great IMHO, not compared to individual runners with a collector right at the turbo.

a spacer plate will definately be needed, yes.

[Bl4cK32]

They are better designed due to the fact where each runner meets, the internal diameter of the runners grow, not like a single log at all really, like the std manifold is.

more explained here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=78681&hl=cast

do a search, cos they are better over std imho

[retrotec]

Today I rang Nissan to get a price on an R33 RB25DET oil pump.

I was told that in the R33 series there is 17 different types of oil pumps (rb20-26). There are also more than 2 different oil pumps list for the 25det. I'm not sure which one to get and which one would fit.

I've read back through all the pages and know that the later R33 RB25DET requires the JUn adaptor, I'm after the direct fit pump.

I was asked for a chassis number so the right oil pump could be matched to the engine, I dont have a skyline so that would be rather difficult.

If anyone could pass their vin number or the part number onto me who has used their 25 oil pump on a 30det would be much appreciated.

[SLIMVL]

i work at a nissan dealer and can get most of the parts at near cost so if yas need nethin just pm me and we will work it out.

we used a R33 N1 pump on a mates vl turbo and its mint compaired to the vl 1.

i think the pump was like 480 or sumfn

rrb25det 1ns are bout 435 i think,

[Scribble]

Hi,

If one was to obtain the series 1 RB30 block without the holes already drilled and tapped for the turbo oil and water lines. How much work is required to do them? Is it a hard job basically?

Anyone done it before and had success?

Thanks for your time,

Scribble

[Freeman]

Hey everybody, rather than create a new thread i thought i should just ask here seems rb30det's is the subject. Just curious how reliable these engines are, if built by a workshop. I know to an extent it relies on the ability of the workshop, but say a very well built rb30, how will they hold up compared to stock rb25s? Do the problems multiply a lot faster than in a stock rb25 if the boost is raised? Thanks for your help, it might sound stupid but i have been wondering about it for some time.

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Scribble its quite easy to do. The water lines are there the tubo feed and return are not. With the high pressure you need to take the filter off and put a slot in the top of the thread where the filter bolts on you then get a really big flat head screw driver and remove this thread ( it is like a stud). Okay then go and buy a long drill bit froma specialty store, I used a 4.5mmx 250mm long drill bit and started from the turbo side of the engine and drilled through, you will find cast is quite soft but be very deligent using wd as a lube and not going down to hard or coming back out... you will need to come back out quite often to get rid of the built up metal...I used a cordless as its easier to go gentle on.... For the return you need to center punch the flat spot and drill it out and keep stepping up the drill. Tapping it is quite difficult as its damn big, I used 3/4 bsp tap its a 2 man job to get the thread started but after that you home and hose!!!!!

[Scribble]

Cheers Formaly s13drifter.

Hopefully one of these years i can buy one of your sump adapter plates to make my dream come true!

I might be picking up an RB30 with a blown head gasket for rather cheap this weekend. I heard they come with the holes already tapped just with bolts in them? But it was only the VL's that didnt.

[Scribble]

Sweet picked up a bottom end with everything bar water pump. Has one blown ring. Best bit is only cost $30 Is a series 1 VL though so i got some drilling to do.

Any measurments on how far in i drill? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time,

Scribble

[StockyMcStock]

drill in from the turbo side until you see/feel the bit go into the high pressure gallery on the other side, direcly opposite the oil filter. this is the main high pressure gallery where all the bottom end bearing supply galleries are connected to. it's about 15cm worth of drilling IIRC.

p.s. if you're in brisbane i have a FREE series 2 block (all bores are fine) which you can come and grab - it will be easier than getting the holes drilled and tapped trust me, i had to do it!

Edited August 19, 2005 by StockyMcStock

[Scribble]

Cheers for that info. Wish i was in brisbane!!

StockyMcStock: what are some signs of a damaged bore? are we talking scratches etc? or more subtle things?

If i can get a stand this weekend im keen to pull it down and check the block over.

[Sydneykid]

Hey everybody, rather than create a new thread i thought  i should just ask here seems rb30det's is the subject. Just curious how reliable these engines are, if built by a workshop. I know to an extent it relies on the ability of the workshop, but say a very well built rb30, how will they hold up compared to stock rb25s? Do the problems multiply a lot faster than in a stock rb25 if the boost is raised? Thanks for your help, it might sound stupid but i have been wondering about it for some time.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I built one 5 years ago, it made 475 bhp on the engine dyno, it is still going and is up around 70,000 k's now. It has standard RB30E everything and a standard RB25DET cylinder head that was ported. The big advanatage with 3 litres compared to 2.5 litres is you don't have to use the same high rpm to get the power. Lower rpm = longer life. Keep the boost down, tune it right, service it regularly and a 475 bhp RB30 will live longer than a 475 bhp RB25.

cheers

[StockyMcStock]

Scribble: a "damaged" bore would normally be in the order of large, deep scratches in the wall of the cylinder. anything you can get your fingernail into is too big in my experience!

however, an out-of-round bore is almost as bad. the bore wears in an oval shape, as the rods "push" the piston to the lateral sides of the bore on each stroke. check the out-of-round specs with a dial guage of suitable accuracy, if it's greater than factory specs then you need to bore the cylinders out to a slightly larger size so that they are exactly round again. this obviously needs to be done in a machine shop!

SydneyKid: i'm planning on keeping the standard cams so my rev limit is going to be about 6200rpm where i hear they start to nose off. hopefully it will last as long as your engine has, that's quite a feat for an engine up around 500bhp. i don't think mine will be spending much time up around that rev limit either, it's a twincharge (GT40 turbo + Eaton M90 blower) so with bulk torque available everywhere i think it should be OK for a street car.

[Scribble]

...

Edited August 19, 2005 by Scribble

[Scribble]

My bores as i can telll are about 85.6 to 86 each bore. Im thinking about getting them bored 20thou, would this be enough to make them circular again? and would this increase capacity?

No visable scratches but will see when i pull her down.

Sorry its my first engine ever.

Thanks for your time,

Scribble

[StockyMcStock]

get an engine builder with a nice accurate dial guage to measure them properly for you, there's not much margin for error in bore sizes!

the idea with boring is to bore the cylinders evenly out by the same amount, which should be the smallest amount possible. 20thou will do it i would say, pretty easily. yes it will increase the capacity of the engine, by a bees' dick.

[Freeman]

I built one 5 years ago, it made 475 bhp on the engine dyno, it is still going and is up around 70,000 k's now.  It has standard RB30E everything and a standard RB25DET cylinder head that was ported.  The big advanatage with 3 litres compared to 2.5 litres is you don't have to use the same high rpm to get the power.  Lower rpm = longer life.  Keep the boost down, tune it right, service it regularly and a 475 bhp RB30 will live longer than a 475 bhp RB25.

cheers 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks heaps for the info, ill leave you guys to it. Cheers