R33 Rb30 Conversion

[conan7772]

FYI - 9mm lift is where the cams require the head to have some material removed for clearance. Duration doesnt affect it. Larger injectors can be bought that fit to the oem fuel rail.

Maybe do some more research...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

so 8.5mm lift cams could go straight in ?

what's the best duration to go with this before street driving is gone.

i.e. reasonable fuel consumption and smooth idle.

I was assuming at some point you need the extra lift for the longer duration to be beneficial !

Edited December 1, 2005 by conan7772

[Sydneykid]

so 8.5mm lift cams could go straight in ?

what's the best duration to go with this before street driving is gone.

i.e. reasonable fuel consumption and smooth idle.

I was assuming at some point you need the extra lift for the longer duration to be beneficial !

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What is a big lumpy cam in an 2.5/2.6 litre, is not so ugly in a 3 litre. The extra 20% capacity smooths the power out a lot. Personally I wouldn't hestitate to stick 264's in there.

As I have mentioned several time, this "machining" to fit higher lift cams is grossly overrated. Plus you can get some serious lft before it is even necessary, I only had to remove 0.5 mm to fit 10.3 mm lift cams into an RB26 cylinder head this week. The actual tolerancing took about 20 minutes with a die grinder. Done in the car, that is not what I call "machining".

cheers

[GTR-Ben]

You've got to get us a sound clip of the rb30det with its cams Ben.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I will make a small vid this weekend just for you mate

It only has a drop pipe off the turbo at the moment so it's plenty loud.

I made a small mistake off running it without my powersteering lines etc. (no fluid) So my custom made pump kind of stopped.

I was looking at my friend.. and said "oh yeah.. the powersteering belt is still hooked up......." BAM! motor stops. haha.

So now all I need to do is hook up my front brake pipes, clutch pipe, power steering and a few other small things and it will actually be drivable.

I have some wheel coming from Japan.. so as soon as they are here the wide body kit I have had sitting in the roof for a year or more will be attached.

Finally getting close fella's! :lol:

[Cubes]

Thanks Ben...

Well.... I left my water in bung loose and lost all my new expensive coolant upon the first start of my rb30det. :S

Always do something a little silly. lol

------

Gary,

Howd you go about machining the head around the followers with the head on? Wouldn't little bits drop down in to the valve stem/spring area due to machining? :S

Trying to visualise it.

Edited December 1, 2005 by Cubes

[platinum]

GT42/HKS T51r fits fine

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What is that like to drive on the street - and which exhaust housing did you opt for?

[Sydneykid]

Thanks Ben...

Well.... I left my water in bung loose and lost all my new expensive coolant upon the first start of my rb30det. :S

Always do something a little silly. lol

------

Gary,

Howd you go about machining the head around the followers with the head on? Wouldn't little bits drop down in to the valve stem/spring area due to machining? :S

Trying to visualise it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Done it a few times, so I have a have a system. I use a vacuum cleaner pointed at each bucket as I grind it. I fill the gaps with grease, which I can wipe off later. I also stick some glad wrap over the rest of the area that I am not working on. As usual it takes much longer to set up/clean up than is does to actually do the die grinding. But certainly better than taking the head off. And it is only 0.5 mm, in soft aluminium alloy, so there is not exactly tonnes of red hot swarf flying around all over the place. It is far more clinical than that.

Cheers

[conan7772]

FYI - 9mm lift is where the cams require the head to have some material removed for clearance. Duration doesnt affect it. Larger injectors can be bought that fit to the oem fuel rail.

Maybe do some more research...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This is the best place for research...

There's blokes here building engines left right and centre!

Edited December 10, 2005 by conan7772

[Craved]

what spec cams are you considering ?

my mechanic reckons the 256 deg are the most agro ones you can use before the lobes start to hit the sides of the head...

still don't know if this is for sure yet.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i have the tomei pon cams, so they are 256 degree duration..

bought them before deciding on going for the 3L..

have been thinking of running 264 degree's but still con entirely sure they would work ok on the hydrolic lifters..

i have no problem with getting the "machining" done to clear the lobes, wont have to do as much prep as Gary as the head will already be off the engine.

would solid lifters be better with 264 deg cams? or if im not revving past 7500rpm the hydrolic ones be up to the challenge? is this the same with the valve springs? trying to keep the costs down as far as i can

[conan7772]

i have the tomei pon cams, so they are 256 degree duration..

bought them before deciding on going for the 3L..

have been thinking of running 264 degree's but still con entirely sure they would work ok on the hydrolic lifters..

i have no problem with getting the "machining" done to clear the lobes, wont have to do as much prep as Gary as the head will already be off the engine.

would solid lifters be better with 264 deg cams? or if im not revving past 7500rpm the hydrolic ones be up to the challenge?  is this the same with the valve springs? trying to keep the costs down as far as i can

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My head is off right now but I'm out of money.

Stock cams and the old T3-T4 turbo are back on for now.

Hopefully should get 280 rwkw for the moment.

Next February, aiming for bigger injectors, GT35/40 and tomei cams.

After all this, I'll be content.

Just wanna get 0-100 in under 4 secs.

Edited December 14, 2005 by conan7772

[Scribble]

Just wanna get 0-100 in under 4 secs.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sounds like my kinda car

[Cubes]

Not sure..

My mechanic states R34 GTRs all have stock hydraulic.

Don't know their limits though.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

GTR's ALL are solid.. R34 GTT is also solid.

0-100 in under 4secs or a flat 4sec.. I'll be happy with.

Possibly RE55s or RA1's + a decent diff and tight subframe should do the trick with... No idea how much power is needed.

Edited December 2, 2005 by Cubes

[Craved]

any ideas if the NEO lifters would fit in a non NEO rb25?

[conan7772]

GTR's ALL are solid.. R34 GTT is also solid.

0-100 in under 4secs or a flat 4sec.. I'll be happy with.

Possibly RE55s or RA1's + a decent diff and tight subframe should do the trick with... No idea how much power is needed.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

see,told ya's this is the best place for research

[Skyrine-Dave]

Stocky give us some pics of your setup!

As for struggling to make 320rwkw with the GT35/40... BS!!

Ive got the GT35R with 0.82 housing and its doing 320rwkw on 16psi , However the GT35R does look a little 'small' in the engine bay these days

[Cubes]

GT35R with a .82 on 16psi doing 320rwkw is pretty damn good.

I know of another RB30DET running RB25DET VCT 256 duration cams, nice exhaust manifold and inlet manifold making 323rwkw on 18psi.

Stock exhaust manifold with a .82 machined up rear it would make a shade over 300rwkw with 18-19psi.

Sky30's is pretty much on par also... 312rwkw on ~19psi stock exhaust manifold, 260duration cams.

Edited December 3, 2005 by Cubes

[Looney_Head]

A pic of my engine in R32 as it is, makes 312rwkw.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey sky30 nice looking engine bay man. love the sleeper look.

i have a few questions, how much did you lower the engine mounts by and how close does the engine get to the front cross member now?

and do you have any problems with the bonnet running the standard intercooler piping?

thanks

Phill

[Cubes]

Loony Head,

I can answer.

The answers are in the guide, we used the same measurements for lowering the motor. Off the top of my head I can't remember.

There is no clearance issues with std ic piping.

With regards to how close to the cross member.. It sits closer by how much its lowered by.

Try not to think to much.. Its all very easy. Simply lower the motor, bolt everything up, extend the dump pipe height a little to meet the extra height.. Thats all that needs to be modified, everything bolts up perfectly.

Edited December 3, 2005 by Cubes

[StockyMcStock]

i've got the GT35R with 0.82 housing and its doing 320rwkw on 16psi

god damn that's pretty phucking good. i really didn't think the .82 rear would get that sort of juice happening without lots of boost. do you have a big arse external gate or just something normal out of interest?

as for pics of mine dave, i'll get some when the manifold has been faced and leak tested, then i can bolt the turbo on and take some happy snaps. still gotta get that goddam M90 drive snout shortened too, and a billet drive pulley machined up more $$$

Edited December 3, 2005 by StockyMcStock

[Skyrine-Dave]

god damn that's pretty phucking good. i really didn't think the .82 rear would get that sort of juice happening without lots of boost. do you have a big arse external gate or just something normal out of interest?

as for pics of mine dave, i'll get some when the manifold has been faced and leak tested, then i can bolt the turbo on and take some happy snaps. still gotta get that goddam M90 drive snout shortened too, and a billet drive pulley machined up    more $$$

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I got a 45mm external gate and i think compression of 9:1

But yeah... Here's what my oil pump now looks like :

This is meant to be an Rb25det oil pump, when i took it off i found that it does fully sit on the crank drive properly. So maybe this is where the crank collars come in handy? or is this pump just not an RB25det oil pump? maybe a 33/34 GTR pump :S

Either way looks like i need a new one!.. oh yeah.. that inner ring is split in half, cbf hosting the other pic

[Cubes]

That looks the same as my rb25 oil pump.

The drive is on the actual crank. I haven't seen a R33 GTR+ crank so I really don't know how it differs.

I assume the motor is now dead? :S

What rev's were being pulled to damage the oil pump?