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I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet.

That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there.

Do remember 1bar through the gt35r will most likely have your injectors nearing their 'safe' 80% max on std fuel pressure. :(

I believe Fatz RB26 thing made 270rwkw on 17psi running a stock rb26 ecu. :) I forget what it made after a tune. :)

The 90 degree bend.. If it were me i'd simply drop a silicon 90degree bend on there. Then connect the silicon bend up to a piece of pipe that runs *from memory* at a max angle of 15degree's until it matches ic pipe dia.

EDIT: Highlighted one paragraph to make it just that little bit clearer. :)

I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet.

That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there.

Do remember 1bar through the gt35r will most likely have your injectors nearing their 'safe' 80% max on std fuel pressure. :)

I believe Fatz RB26 thing made 270rwkw on 17psi running a stock rb26 ecu. :) I forget what it made after a tune. :(

The 90 degree bend.. If it were me i'd simply drop a silicon 90degree bend on there. Then connect the silicon bend up to a piece of pipe that runs *from memory* at a max angle of 15degree's until it matches ic pipe dia.

don't wanna pull the head off yet so i think i'll stick with the na valve springs for a while!

What do you think about the GTR fuel pump?

When i take it to Shaun to get tuned i'm just going to tell him to tune it to within a safe range for my injectors sake, i'll honestly be happy with 250@the rears for now (so i have time to upgrade gearbox and diff)! Do you know if the wastegate on the xr6t is like the rb20 ones where it lets more boost out with things like exhaust etc or will it stick to 6/7psi? Cause i was thinking i might not even worry about a boost controller!

Sif take head off to do valve springs.You can do it with a regulator and air compresser with a fitting in the spark plug hole.

conan7772 you have a rb25det actuator on,put a rb20det one on as it will hold around 10.5psi/11psi with no boost controller.I fiddled with a rb20det and rb25det one on my car and boost comes on quicker with the rb20det one :) Silver top rb20det i ment

R31 Power...

I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet.

That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there.

:P

Ash,

250rwkw through an rb20 gearbox...hrmmm BANG!!

Mine broke with only 176rwkw. BUT.... Mine making 176rwkw was making the same amount of rear wheel tractive effort (rear wheel torque) as freebaggins 313rwkw Rb25DET.

Torque kills gearbox's. :(

If I were in your position.. lol.. I would throw a 14psi adjustable actuator on it from ATS for ~$120 and tune it to that... and take it easy. :(

But still 6-7psi should make an N/A linear feeling 190rwkw without too much trouble. :)

Ash, you dont need to take the head off to do the valvesprings, dont make a simple job harder by ripping the head off.

What A/R is the exhaust housing, is it a total stock XR6 turbo with internal gate? arent these 1.06 housings, may be a bit laggy, be interesting to compare it to .82. let us know the results.

did you sort your oil problem out?

Hello All

I have been following up on this thread since it was in the 110's. I've talked to a few people about sending me a rb30 block plus parts. But so far nothing. Parts I am looking for.

- Rb26dett head complete with intake and exhaust manifolds. Injectors, cam's, and valve covers. Camm gears, sensors etc.

- Rb30 series II block with all internals and externals. Sensors, pistons, rods, pully's, covers etc. AC, PS

Essentually I should be able to bolt the head to the block and get it to work. That's how complete I want the head and block to be.

Anyone able to help?

Thanks

Gus

P.S> I have tried in the classifieds/ marketplace section...no dice.

Edited by daisosasen01

Sorry ppls... I need to make myself clear. :P

I said in not so many words..... IF you have to rip your head off to get to the bottom of the oil issue THEN drop the valve springs in as one would be silly not to take the opportunity to make ones life easier. :(

Low km RB26 valve springs can be picked up cheap. From $100 to $200, if the heads off to check out oil restrictors or bore/piston condition (hence your major oil breathing problem) why not drop them in. :(

Hello All

I have been following up on this thread since it was in the 110's. I've talked to a few people about sending me a rb30 block plus parts. But so far nothing. Parts I am looking for.

- Rb26dett head complete with intake and exhaust manifolds. Injectors, cam's, and valve covers. Camm gears, sensors etc.

- Rb30 series II block with all internals and externals. Sensors, pistons, rods, pully's, covers etc. AC, PS

Essentually I should be able to bolt the head to the block and get it to work. That's how complete I want the head and block to be.

Anyone able to help?

Thanks

Gus

P.S> I have tried in the classifieds/ marketplace section...no dice.

i picked up a complete SII RB30E for $350 on the R31skyline forums http://www.r31skylineclub.com/ only thing i didnt get was the

as for the RB26, keep looking or go to a wreckers and pick one up.

It means... your right... ~200rwkw possibly a little more.

Darrens hits load point 17 and according to the datalogit airflow values is very very close to jumping in to load point 18, his is making 218rwkw. ;)

Mine... Hits load point 17 but by 4500rpm+ has dropped back up to load point 16.

Load points have nothing to do with the map reference scaling.

If you were to run a standard AFM load point 17 may be 5.1v. Drop the Z32 or Q45 on there and voltages may drop to 4.2-4.3v, so you have go tmore head room but to use it you have to adjust the map reference.

The reason the RB30's run in to trouble on the std map early is due to making so much more power earlier on in the rpm range. As rpm increases the map references allows you to make more power. If that makes sense. ;)

Those last 2 cells may allow another 50rwkw or so. One will only know when they tune it.

When Darren was running the stock rb20det map reference he hit load point 20 at 200rwkw, the rb20det's are easily able to make over 200rwkw on the standard map as they make it higher in the rpm, so in a way think of the map reference as a reference for torque, the more torque you make the higher the load point you use. Less torque higher rpm = more power.

Got off track there but anyway, once Darren dropped the rb25det map reference in there that gave him a little head room he was able to dial in another 1psi and make 218rwkw.

Hope that made sense, I can't be buggered reading over it. lol :mad:

R31 Power...

;)

Ash,

250rwkw through an rb20 gearbox...hrmmm BANG!!

Mine broke with only 176rwkw. BUT.... Mine making 176rwkw was making the same amount of rear wheel tractive effort (rear wheel torque) as freebaggins 313rwkw Rb25DET.

Torque kills gearbox's. ;)

If I were in your position.. lol.. I would throw a 14psi adjustable actuator on it from ATS for ~$120 and tune it to that... and take it easy. :mad:

But still 6-7psi should make an N/A linear feeling 190rwkw without too much trouble. :laugh:

have already started worrying about my gearbox and diff, they will definitely be the next things i do!

Do you think that its possible though for the 14psi actuator to max out my injectors though, was thinking i'd just hook up my boost controller then it can be tuned to 10/12/14 psi!

Ash, you dont need to take the head off to do the valvesprings, dont make a simple job harder by ripping the head off.

What A/R is the exhaust housing, is it a total stock XR6 turbo with internal gate? arent these 1.06 housings, may be a bit laggy, be interesting to compare it to .82. let us know the results.

did you sort your oil problem out?

ye it is the 1.06 housing, not really too worried about the lag, the things great off boost and will hopefully improve my fuel economy too! I guess it will be a good comparisson to yours once tuned!

Unsure if it would be double..

Only time will tell. ;)

Hows yours going anyway??? Up and running yet? :mad:

Yeah have it all running. Just have to get it on the dyno and see if it can be tuned up all right..

Waiting on my wheels etc and have been fitting my wide bodykit, A LOT of work in this.. regretting it as I would have been driving it if not for that.. but will look mean when it's all on ;)

Sounds awesome though, can't wait.

So is anyone out there able to help me out with these things?

1.) So far i've worked out i need a new dump pipe (different flange!)

2.) New oil and water lines (not sure where to get these from or what exactly to ask for!)

3.) 90 degree bend welded on the inducer/cooler pipe so it faces the front of the car for the standard cooler piping. (figure this would be better than using a 90 degree bit of silicone hose)

4.) do i need to rotate the front housing on the exhaust housing??????

5.) The other thing i have noticed today is that i'm running the standard afm rubber pipe and its too small at the end where you hose clamp it to the front compressor, so what do people do in this situation running bigger turbo's with an AFM?

15psi = 294rwkw yet with 3250rpm full spool?

Almost sounds too good to be true, if thats really the case stick with it as a GT35R will be laggier and will require more boost to make that power.

What fuel are you running?

Turbo specs?

What fuel pressure are you running? :D

fuel pressure:

37 psi on idle

68 psi on full throttle

ps:Fuel pressure gauge is down in front of my shifter.

Lost traction big time whilst looking down.

I'll try and choose a less busy road next time ! :)

fuel pressure:

37 psi on idle

68 psi on full throttle

ps:Fuel pressure gauge is down in front of my shifter.

Lost traction big time whilst looking down.

I'll try and choose a less busy road next time ! :)

So your running a 2:1 fpr vs the std item that raises fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi increase in boost?

Interesting. :D

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