R33 Rb30 Conversion

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

I did change that hose clamp so thats not the issue the bonnet was touching in a few places, my cross over pipe to intake, and my plenum right at the edge near the coolant screw, and also to the left of it a bit, it is acutally touching on where i have already cut the supports off so i would need to cut a piece of the bonnet out for it to clear , your right cubes i do have two manifolds TIME FOR THE GRINDER

Edited June 1, 2006 by FOOLBOOST

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

Also how important is that underlay heat wise if i dont use it will the heat ruin the paint on my bonnet?

[Craved]

Also how important is that underlay heat wise if i dont use it will the heat ruin the paint on my bonnet?

ran my car without it for 2 years, no issue with the paint.

[Craved]

anyone here seen a 3 way adapter that would fit in the oil pressure hole in the block?

i need to run the std sender, aftermarket guage sender and the VCT oil feed from here.

options are ;

to make one up

to run a twin adapter then another twin out of that

find one that has 3 oulets already.

[Cubes]

I must say I really do envy the gts4 + rb30 combo.

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

What size is it?? Thats a lot of oil lines , i would go to gauge works they have all those fitting so you could make whateva you like up

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

Driving my car was that fun cubes? Wait till i wear her in then u can have a THRASH, i mean REAL drive of her

[r33_racer]

sounds like you guys are having mad rb30 fun.....i cannot wait

[Craved]

What size is it?? Thats a lot of oil lines , i would go to gauge works they have all those fitting so you could make whateva you like up

pretty sure that are all 1/8th NPT..

have to measure the guage's sender and see what that is .. the VCT line will be custom so it can be anything i want..

hahah they are really line, just the little sender units from the guage and the std ECU/dash . then the feed

[platinum]

anyone here seen a 3 way adapter that would fit in the oil pressure hole in the block?

i need to run the std sender, aftermarket guage sender and the VCT oil feed from here.

options are ;

to make one up

to run a twin adapter then another twin out of that

find one that has 3 oulets already.

Hey - I got one for mine, VDO make a brass fitting... really sorry I threw away the packege with the model number in it! The guy I talked to knew straight away what I need though. The stock oil pressure sensor screws into the end of it, and it has a hole in the side for your oil line. I just used some speedflow fittings and some teflon/braided lines for the VCT.

edit: sorry, saw you need 3 maybe two of the above would sort it out... do you really need the stock gauge AND the aftermarket one?

Edited June 1, 2006 by platinum

[Craved]

Hey - I got one for mine, VDO make a brass fitting... really sorry I threw away the packege with the model number in it! The guy I talked to knew straight away what I need though. The stock oil pressure sensor screws into the end of it, and it has a hole in the side for your oil line. I just used some speedflow fittings and some teflon/braided lines for the VCT.

edit: sorry, saw you need 3 maybe two of the above would sort it out... do you really need the stock gauge AND the aftermarket one?

yeah i dont want the oil light and stock guage to not work. hate having guages not work in the dash

i think the 2 double adapter things will work fine.

cheers

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

SOME PICS OF MY RB25/30 BUILD

[Sydneykid]

Hey - I got one for mine, VDO make a brass fitting... really sorry I threw away the packege with the model number in it! The guy I talked to knew straight away what I need though. The stock oil pressure sensor screws into the end of it, and it has a hole in the side for your oil line. I just used some speedflow fittings and some teflon/braided lines for the VCT.

edit: sorry, saw you need 3 maybe two of the above would sort it out... do you really need the stock gauge AND the aftermarket one?

Be careful, the brass fittings hanging off the side of the block vibrate and can crack, particularly if they have heavy sensors screwed into them increasing their weight. If you piggy back them it would just make it worse. When they crack oil goes everywhere, it’s very messy. To stop the vibration, I use a short piece of braided hose screwed into the block and then mount the brass adaptor solidly so it doesn’t vibrate and the weight of the sensors is taken up by the bracket, not the fitting itself.

cheers

[platinum]

Good idea SK might look into doing that, as it does sit out a fair way.

[Craved]

top Idea SK .. cheers mate

[CruiseLiner]

hey guys i know its been discussed but im unsure what to search for and 180+ pages is alot to look through.

so if i was to get a stock rb26 head and a stock rb30e bottom end and bolt em together what comp ratio would i get? and what about using the rb30et bottom end, what comp ratio?

i want to use the entire rb30 bottom end complete without touching it as a bit of a cheap engine build and see if it will last. i would love to put my rb26 head on it with the t04z and big cams and see the lag differences compared to my jun 2.7L stroker.

what sort of power would i be able to run safely with the stock bottom end and stock head, if the external parts were all suitable for big power?

is 300rwkw possible for extended periods or is that about optimistic?

also whats the ideal comp ratio for a rb30/26 setup for response and drivability?

any info appreciated and sorry for bringing up the same questions, i just havent got 3 hours to read through at the moment and find it myself

thanks

Brad

Edited June 7, 2006 by CruiseLiner

[Cubes]

Stock rb30 bottom end + rb26 head is around flat to low 8:1.

Sky30 has pushed slightly over 300rwkw on a second hand $50 rb30e that had done 270,000km's. I believe he did ~20,000km's at around 240rwkw then went on to do another 20,000km's but with a shade over 300rwkw. Its now off the road as he's dropping the motor in to a GTS4.

Many underestimate the ol' rb30. They are a tough motor.

I am 100% with Sk on this one... 9:1.

I run around 8.7:1 and there is a noticable (not huge but noticable) difference compared to an rb30 running 8:1, all though the rb30 was fresh..

FOOLBOOST, what do you think? Much of a difference in initial off idle torque between ours?

Probably best to wait until yours is tuned..

[SirRacer]

hey guys i know its been discussed but im unsure what to search for and 180+ pages is alot to look through.

so if i was to get a stock rb26 head and a stock rb30e bottom end and bolt em together what comp ratio would i get? and what about using the rb30et bottom end, what comp ratio?

i want to use the entire rb30 bottom end complete without touching it as a bit of a cheap engine build and see if it will last. i would love to put my rb26 head on it with the t04z and big cams and see the lag differences compared to my jun 2.7L stroker.

what sort of power would i be able to run safely with the stock bottom end and stock head, if the external parts were all suitable for big power?

is 300rwkw possible for extended periods or is that about optimistic?

also whats the ideal comp ratio for a rb30/26 setup for response and drivability?

any info appreciated and sorry for bringing up the same questions, i just havent got 3 hours to read through at the moment and find it myself

thanks

Brad

rb30et bottom end is around 7.1 and the rb30e with the head 8.3. With the block planed slightly assuming other factory figures are correct you can get 8.5.1

300rwkw for extended periods yes is possible. One guy here in nz ran a season of racing on an rb30e bottom end with 25de oil pump with 450rwkws

[r33_racer]

I have a quick and important question regarding piston/bore lubrication. We have aftermarket rods and pistons, obviously no block mounted oil squirters and the rods dont have any holes in them for external oil squirting. The motor has been assembled already and were just doing external fittings and ancilliary bits before it goes in. The thing thats playing on my mind is, is there enough oil lubrication from just crank splash to sufficiently lubricate/cool the bore and pistons? The bore was machined on the tighter side of the piston spec sheets tolerance which will make the situation worse. Now will it be a big problem like this or are others running their rb30s like this with no dramas. Would be good to find out now before motor goes in so we can easily pull it apart and rectify the problem. It is a race motor too.

Thanks in advance.

[Sydneykid]

I have a quick and important question regarding piston/bore lubrication. We have aftermarket rods and pistons, obviously no block mounted oil squirters and the rods dont have any holes in them for external oil squirting. The motor has been assembled already and were just doing external fittings and ancilliary bits before it goes in. The thing thats playing on my mind is, is there enough oil lubrication from just crank splash to sufficiently lubricate/cool the bore and pistons? The bore was machined on the tighter side of the piston spec sheets tolerance which will make the situation worse. Now will it be a big problem like this or are others running their rb30s like this with no dramas. Would be good to find out now before motor goes in so we can easily pull it apart and rectify the problem. It is a race motor too.

Thanks in advance.

Conrod oil squirters are essential

cheers