shanef Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 any idea if he would 'custom' make a high mount set-up for twin gt3037's on a 26/30? Also what price would i be looking at you think? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2381597 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky30 Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 Autos load the engine more so you get ful boost earlier than you would with a manual. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2381736 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Shane, only way to know for sure is to call Kyle and ask him about it. Im pretty sure he would be able to do it. Hes a nice guy and easy to get along with, im sure he could do something for you. 0410730598 - Kyle 6BOOST Manifolds Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2382877 Share on other sites More sharing options...
2BNVS Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 i have one of Kyles high mount manifolds on my 25/30, awesome quality and its thick not thin stainless and flows so brilliantly as does Ariels (ISLEEP) plenums hehe free plug mate ;-) ben... Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2383472 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Um Kyles manifolds arent stainless steel...they are just plain mild steel...unless he made a one off special for you or something. Hes totally against the use of s.s for manifolds. But they are of awesome quality, im very impressed with it so far. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2383506 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Aren’t they “steam pipe”? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2383530 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISL33P Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 thanks ben steam pipe they are Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2383985 Share on other sites More sharing options...
2BNVS Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 (edited) yep steam pipe, thats why i wrote in my post "not thin stainless" sorry if i didnt make it clear meaning that i didnt have one in stainless... as u can see in the pic, perfect quality ben... Edited August 4, 2006 by 2BNVS Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384015 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Ok can someone tell me what their version of steam pipe is? Cause in boilermaking terms steam pipe is chrome/molybdenum pipe used in power station boilers. Now the manifolds, in trady terms are sure as shit not made of chromemoly pipe. They are just mild steel pipe, where the term 'steam pipe' comes from is beyond me. Someone enlighten my humble metal fabricating brain please Cause im getting confused here. Cheers. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384189 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bl4cK32 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 i think the term steam pipe comes from the type of bends used ie mandrel. The one shown above would be just plain mild steel pipe. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384325 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 I've got a niggling idea that steam pipe is to do with how the pipe is bent, like heating it up with steam and bending it maybe? (smack me over the head if thats a rediculous idea lol) Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384329 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 ok well once again, it wouldnt be a steam pipe...it would be a mandrel bend. So im lost. Yeh shane, that pipe aint heated up with steam and bent. In most circumstances the name of the pipe comes from its main application in its line of work. Unless there is something ive missed i think this is just a case of mismatched term and its stuck to it, or 'steam pipe' is the new 'modern' name for mild steel pipe. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384371 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craved Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 mandrel bending uses sand or a string of balls inside the tube to stop it from compressing when bent as per http://www.vansantent.com/definitions.htm Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384403 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Yep, that sounds right, the blokes next door to us have one, got a ball on a little arm that sits inside the bending radius and stops deformation of the pipe like what happens with plain press bending. moral of the story is the manifolds are good, and im calling it mild steel pipe Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384774 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriano Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Steam pipe bends are mild steel cast bends(called black steel), not mandrells. They are called long or tight radius butt weld(you can buy them with a thread on them)steam pipe bends in the blackwoods catalogue. I think they are called that as they are used extensively in boilermaking, also handrails? They are available in two different thicknesses and manifolds are made of the thinner ones(approx 5mm wall thickness-grade 40)there is also a grade 80(10mm wall thickness!!)hope this clears it up Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384790 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 OK sweet that does clear it up then. Makes sense. Cause I measured the wall thickness and it was 5mm, so that adds up. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384819 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NosDan Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 just to add my $1.29 to the steam pipe stuff, yes there for steam. a lot of factorys run off steam power still. sheridans (quilts/sheets) i did some work at years back and most of the machines there ran off steam. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384826 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sydneykid Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 The stainless exhaust manifold we got on the race car is shithouse in terms of life span...they cant handle the heat and go brittle and then crack...just like our one, not even a year old and its falling to pieces. We got a nice 6boost m/s manifold ready to go on, which i think will do the trick, plus the design looks alot better for flow. Kyle seems to think we should see about a 2-300rpm decrease in lag just from his manifold. And best part, he gives a lifetime warranty on cracks! woot! I hear about cracking exhaust manifolds a lot, but when I dig deaper I find 99% of the time the whole exhaust system is hanging off the turbo. A rubber hanger or 2 at the rear mufler, that's it. The turbo, the wastegate, the dump pipe, engine pipe, cat (if there is one) etc all hanging off a red hot glowing exhaust manifold. Is it any wonder they crack. As I have posted many times, I use a vertically solid mount at the bellhousing to block joint and another mount at the gearbox subframe. That way all the exhaust manifold has ot do it hold itself up. I have never cracked an exhaust manifold of any type, thin stainless or not. cheers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2384989 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 lol Gary, we have a stainless flex pipe from dump pipe to the short exhaust system(about 2 mtrs worth) we have which goes out infront of the rear p.s wheel, and that short part is supported by three rubber hangers, one off the gearbox subframe, one off the tailshaft loop we made up and the one just near the sil where the exhaust exits. Everywhere upto the stainless flex is supported, only the dump pipe hangs off the turbo. Is that setup really so bad? Does it fall within your 99% category?? Not being rude either. For the next manifold im gonna put another mount off the engine/gearbox bell housing whichever i can use the easiet to hold the dump pipe from the back of the turbo, and then a bracket from the manfiold to the head somewhere. I think that should be sufficient. Just a note also, none of the cracks on the manifold were around the runners or in typical stress points. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2385057 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sydneykid Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 lol Gary, we have a stainless flex pipe from dump pipe to the short exhaust system(about 2 mtrs worth) we have which goes out infront of the rear p.s wheel, and that short part is supported by three rubber hangers, one off the gearbox subframe, one off the tailshaft loop we made up and the one just near the sil where the exhaust exits. Everywhere upto the stainless flex is supported, only the dump pipe hangs off the turbo. Is that setup really so bad? Does it fall within your 99% category?? Not being rude either.For the next manifold im gonna put another mount off the engine/gearbox bell housing whichever i can use the easiet to hold the dump pipe from the back of the turbo, and then a bracket from the manfiold to the head somewhere. I think that should be sufficient. Just a note also, none of the cracks on the manifold were around the runners or in typical stress points. There is always an exception to the rule, maybe you get to be it on this one. Although, maybe the solid mount at the gearbox bellhousing to block joint is the trick. On mine, I can unbolt the exhaust manifold from the engine and the turbo, wastegate and exhaust manifold don't move up or down. So the only thing my exhaust manifold does is transport the gas, it doesn't even hold up its own weight. Plus I have 2 stainless steel rods that go from the exhaust manifold (to head flange) to the turbine flange on the exhaust manifold. So the exhaust manifold gets zero side loading as well as zero up and down. The circuit race G forces are quite severe, so I made sure I avoided that problem as well. cheers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/187/#findComment-2385500 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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