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  slo-a31 said:
i've gone thru 207 pages i cant find anything.

i'm running an rb30dett

using

rb25de R32 head

rb26 plenum

rb26 turbo and manifolds

i cant seem to find any pistons to get my comression up so i have good responce.

any help would be good.

cheers

Machine the head and block to get the compression ratio you want. Mine is 9 to 1 with a slight dome piston and 0.8 mm head gasket. The combustion chambers are 62 cc’s (standard is 64-65 cc’s). I retained the standard squish.

:( cheers :(

  slo-a31 said:
what pistons are you running sydneykid?

JE Pistons in mine.

But it doesn't matter what brand.

You need a slight piston dome, so look at the spec sheets and pick one.

Then select a head gasket thickness and machine the head & block to achieve the target compression ratio.

:) cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
  Sydneykid said:
JE Pistons in mine.

But it doesn't matter what brand.

You need a slight piston dome, so look at the spec sheets and pick one.

Then select a head gasket thickness and machine the head & block to achieve the target compression ratio.

:P cheers :wub:

the ACLs i bought are are flat top. everything considered is dome top preferable with respect to creating the correct squish etc?

  Scooby said:
the ACLs i bought are are flat top. everything considered is dome top preferable with respect to creating the correct squish etc?

The ACL's run positive deck height, so same result as the JE's.

:) cheers :P

I'm thinking of making a 3L RB26. Most likely by taking the crank and so on from an RB30 and putting into an RB26.

What are peoples thoughts?

I've heard that RB30 bottom ends have different mounting points to the RB26 hence why I was considering going down this route.

  Frawg said:
I'm thinking of making a 3L RB26. Most likely by taking the crank and so on from an RB30 and putting into an RB26.

What are peoples thoughts?

I've heard that RB30 bottom ends have different mounting points to the RB26 hence why I was considering going down this route.

Thats already been done mate...an engine builder posted about it on here a few months back now...used the rb30 crank in a 26 block im pretty sure it was and after alot of machining and customised work it became a rb29 or something. But i remember him saying there was alot of work in it.

Edited by r33_racer

Has anyone here used a JUN oil pump collar on an RB30 crank?

It came with 2 grub screws and instructions, in Japanese of coz :rofl: is anyone able to translate?

I'm aware machining is required but are only 2 grub screws going to be safe?

Pics attatched. :laugh:

post-12979-1156676833.jpg

post-12979-1156676957.jpg

Edited by Alf

whats there to translate mate?

It gives you the machining diameter needed to fit the collar on. Its very straightforward. We took ours to the machine shop down the road and they fitted it for us...we just loctited the grub screws in. Some people use a interference fit and heat the collar up, and freeze the crank and let them normalise onto eachother and then put the grubscrews in, ofcourse the crank will need to have recessed holes for the grub screws to lock in, making sure they go in just under flush.

I think it cost us like 90 bux to get done and its still working :)

  r33_racer said:
whats there to translate mate?

It gives you the machining diameter needed to fit the collar on. Its very straightforward. We took ours to the machine shop down the road and they fitted it for us...we just loctited the grub screws in. Some people use a interference fit and heat the collar up, and freeze the crank and let them normalise onto eachother and then put the grubscrews in, ofcourse the crank will need to have recessed holes for the grub screws to lock in, making sure they go in just under flush.

I think it cost us like 90 bux to get done and its still working :P

That's the go;

1. machine to the dimensions

2. heat collar and cool crank

3. press collar onto crank

4. drill holes for grub screws and tap threads.

:happy: cheers :)

Ok the race car is going in for another tune and this is what it has..

1997 R33 S2 GTST RB25/30 Race Car.

RB25 Head with VVT

Mild Port n Polish

Tomei Type A valve springs - not fitted

Greddy Intake Manifold w/ Q45 Throttle Body

S/S Exhaust Manifold - 6Boost fitted

Tial 38mm Wastegate - 48mm Turbosmart Gate fitted

GT35/40 0.82 Rear AR

3" Straight through Exhaust, Dumped PS infront of rear wheel

Screamer to ATMO

Q45 AFM

850cc SARDS

POWERFC PRO w/Datalogit

AVCR

600X300X76 PWR I/C - Soon to be 110mm ARE I/C fitted

Turbosmart BOV

CP 25/30 Pistons w/CP Chromemoly Rings 8.3:1 CR

ACL Steel Headgasket

REV I Beam Rods

ATI Super Damper - fitted

044 Bosch Pump/ 40ltr Fuel Cell

ACL Bearings all throughout

ARP Main & Head Studs

Tomei 256 Poncams IN/EX

NI Oil Pump with JUN Crank Collar

4.5l Custom Catch Can

PWR 50mm Core Radiator

High Energy Circuit Sump

Exedy Twin Plate Clutch w/ Chromemoly Flywheel

So previous tune at Charlies saw us making on 18psi 240rwkw. Cranking the boost right up (25psi) and were hoping for about 300rwkw. The figures seem low in comparison to everyone elses for the mods done. What would you guys think it should see power wise? They dont tune or power run the car in shootout mode, they think its a wank for some reason.

Edited by r33_racer

hi guys

i read somewhere in this thread

i think it was earlier on in it

it mentioned something about R32 GTST gearboxes i think being too weak and not being able to take the power which some of these hybrid engines produce....

i am just curious to whether this is the same issue for the R32 GTS4 gearbox?

or would i need to change to another gearbox?

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