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it's a series 1 head if that means anything?

it has like 12 big spline ridges/valleys and a half moon key - unless the key is broken somehow? i should really have a look at it but i'm lazy and the timing is right so i don't care too much. knock sensing FTW.

Sounds like you need a new cam and CAS by the sounds of that as there is to much play within the spline/half moon and the CAS itself. Have seen it before. Customer complains that it sometimes pings and sometimes just feels really sluggish. He had about +/- 7deg timing variance depending upon where the sline allowed the CAS to move to.

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Hi guys just have a few quick questions,

1) it was brought up about 7 pages ago.. but does anyone know if you can use apr rob bolts for a vg30 or a rb26 on rb30 rods? what rod bolts are people using when using stock rods.

and Cubes, have you pulled the rb30 guide? i keep getting page can not be displayed

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Geocities pulled the site down as their auto script deemed it as a site that contains forwarding code that automatically bounces you to another web site, which it clearly didn't.

I've raised a dispute so it should be back online within a day or so. If not I'm looking at throwing it in SAU's wiki which will also prevent those who bundle the guide with engine manuals and sell it on ebay.

With regards to the Vg30 bolts... Can any one else confirm so I can throw it in the guide for others?

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From the ARP site...

SR20 11/32˝ 202-6005
VG30 V6 D (Four Cam), DET, DETT 11/32˝ 202-6004
GOOD: STANDARD HIGH PERFORMANCE BOLTS

A premium grade 8740 alloy chrome moly steel is used to manufacture ARP High Performance connecting rod bolts. This material is heat-treated to provide a tensile strength in the 200,000 psi range, which is substantially stronger than the OEM bolts. Cycle testing shows ARP High Performance rod bolts to be nearly five times more reliable than stock bolts.

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1 engine builder i know didnt like the fit of the sr20 bolts (wasnt my motor) even though they would have been rite when done up, they just where flopy in the hole where the std 1ns where a tight fit. the guy ended up just geting std bolts from nissan for like 50 all up

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I think different rods will have different pitched threads.

3/8" and 11/32" are two that are available for the RB30 I think...

You just have to make sure which one it is before you buy the rods I guess.

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from memory I think its the VG30 bolts that fit the RB30, or could be the SR20 :-) Either way its easy to figure out which are the ones with a few measurements.

Most aftermarket rods for RB30 use ARP 2000 cap screws, 3/8 thread, 7/16 head and 1.5 thread length ( from the bottom of the head )

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thanks guys,

so those that are using standard rods, are yous just using standard nissan rod bolt?

i am, going to see how it lasts with 300rwkw

already picked up a 2nd motor incase it goes, which is gonna get the goodies in it, and more power

--------------------

anyone able to confirm if the rings are the same on the rb30E and RB30ET pistons?

i know the pistons are different, but i have just recieved some ACL rings and they are labelled RB30T rings .

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std rods should be fine providing you keep rev's in check.

Highest I've heard of a stock bottom end being pushed and holding together for some time was around 370rwkw, that was on the dyno that I run on. It had a GT40 bolted to the side of it with an SOHC head. Unsure if the motor actually let go or if he was just building up another motor as rods are required at that power level. :P

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R32 RB25 and R33 RB25 valves are exactly the same size.

The R32 RB25DE head ports are quite a bit bigger than the rb20det ports and are of the same design/shape. They are however slightly slightly smaller than the RB25DET/RB26DETT ports. The RB25/26 port design looks more of a square shape.

If I were to do it again and were not bothered about the non-stock look I would grab R33 RB25DET head and utlize its vct that aids low and topend power. Anything to extend that power band with the 3ltr is definitely a good thing. If its a streeter the VCT aids low end torque and as a result in theory, fuel economy. The R34 GTT head would be better again but unfortunately there are limited aftermarket plenums available. :P

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Awesome.. And it bolts straight up with the same vct modifications as the usual R33 head?

I'm not too familiar with the R34 head to be honest. From what I saw they appear to run vct on both the inlet and exh. cam. Is that correct?

If thats correct I'm also assuming its not a very intelligent system where by its constantly variable but a simple rpm switch point?

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I only got the head with std cams - no cams gears.

But it looks as if they only have VCt on the intake like R33. They have no drain back on the exhaust side like R33 either.

I am not using the VCT as I am running HKS 272 / 9.35 cams.

The R33 plenum bolts straight up, as I am using a CPC Plenum that used R33 runners.

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Im building an RB25/30 with an r34 neo head for an r32 drift car. The differences are that with the solid lifter i am chucking in my old standard gtr cams which means the r32 CAS bolts straight in. If you wanted to keep the VCT you can just fit the exhaust gtr cam. The combustion chamber is smaller meaning with my ACL flat tops, it ends up with 8.8:1 comp. On top of the R33 head, they have 1mm bigger inlet valves and the solid lifters, also the vct is variable instead of switched like the 33. For my next 25/30 i would like to get two R34 gtt VCT pulleys and setup a VCT on both the inlet and exhaust with a twincharge like Stocky's

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