R33 Rb30 Conversion

[r33_racer]

i guess you could say an external pump is the same or similar to running dry sump.

hmm $1101.89 for JUN oil pump delivered from nengun.

Edited October 29, 2006 by r33_racer

[shanef]

yes but expect to wait atleast 5 weeks for it to arrive

[Alf]

hmm $1101.89 for JUN oil pump delivered from nengun.

Thats a decent dent in the wallet.

A dry sump can be made from approx 2.5K

[Spoolup]

how did you go about fitting your crank collar ?

[Scooby]

Thats definitely no good.

Does SK run a dry sump in the RB30DET race cars? I remember he had mention of on that was up around 650bhp.

sorry to hear that R33 racer, like everyone else i'm keen to know what happened. i have a new N1 sitting on the bench ready to bolt on; having read SKs post in the 'N1 killed my motor' thread and knowing Cubes has 45k km on his made me breathe a little easier but still i'm concerned. AFAIK SK is running a wet sump on the engine he's building atm, with an N1 pump.

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

On the motors I have built I have always undone the backing plate and put allen key bolts in it with the high grade locktite, the backing plate coming loose is as big a problem as the gear cracking, which only seems to happen on N1 pumps. There is a thread on it in the general section but after that a friend of mine who works for the CSIRO did a few quick tests and as per suspesions the N! gear is a harder metal but probably more brittle, this could be a heat treatment issues or a number of other variables. I will be sticking with R34 standard pumps from now on!!!

[Cubes]

R33_racer..

On a more cheerful note..

This new motor. Anything you would have done different?

Higher static comp? Lower?

Interestingly I remember the Gibson motor sport GTR ran quite a high static comp. 9-9.5:1 I think it was. Can't remember exactly.

[nemini90]

Sorry to hear the bad news R33_racer

Do you guys recomend pulling the back plate of a n1 pump and locktite on the bolts im in the process of building at the moment so what ever you guys can recomend me doing so i dont blow it up will help lol

[shanef]

r33, seeing as u prolly dont have air-con, why not run an extenal pump? can be done for near the same money as a JUN pump, and u won't have the dramas of an 'internal' pump. also if i remember correctly, u have an ATI balancer, so u can just buy an 'adapter' that bolts onto the dampner and the belt for the pump fits up nice and easily

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

moroso make an external wet sump oil pump prices out at around 1100. then you will need to make a backet and the pulleys

[shanef]

yeah i was talking to millennium msport today & at autosalon about my set-up, and for the cost involved, it'd be worthwhile spending the little extra and go external pump. mark jackobson runs the moroso u talk about daniel, so it should more than do the job

also, apparantly the peterson pump is slightly better than the moroso (it has a stage 1 in it, scavenging?) but millennium said they've never heard any problems with the moroso

[r33_racer]

yeh were considering all these options. But first thing is to strip it down and find out exactly what it was thats done it. Could be end of week by that time cause my rb25 is still on the engine stand taking up space.

[R32 TT]

Has anyone looked into/used one of these?

http://www.reimax.com/eng-oiln1.html

Apparently replacement internals for the N1 pump explicitly to strengthen it.

Would this be best of both worlds? ie not a High Volume pump - so no problems with too much oil being pumped up to the head, and fixes the arguable strength of the N1 Pump...

[shanef]

jebus! @ $520 is it really worth it?

[R32 TT]

jebus! @ $520 is it really worth it?

Well...... ask R33_racer ?

I guess if a N1 pump is circa $500 and the Reimax internals is similar - then you have a $1000pump all up - which is still on the cheaper side of things like Nismo, JUN and Tomei - but without the 'problems' of a high volume pump?

[shanef]

hrmm yeah good point...i took a pic of one of the millennium skylines they've just built, and they ran 2 feeds from the front of the head into the front of the sump (to alleviate crank case pressure)

Edit - tell a lie, i took a photo of the car, but not of the lines...

[kaige]

I just dropped my head off to get all tested cleaned up and the reconditioner claims $170 odd just for the valve stem seals!!!

Is this correct? or am i getting ripped blind?

last time i did a head on an rb30e the complete vrs kit was $180!

was goping to buy exhuast inlet sepperatly off this site and get engineer to suplly cam seal and valve stem seals, thought it would be cheaper see'ing as no VRS kit comes with cometic head gaskit.

[Craved]

but you can buy a VRS kit without the head gasket in it. check with nissan at the price.

[Cubes]

I just dropped my head off to get all tested cleaned up and the reconditioner claims $170 odd just for the valve stem seals!!!

Is this correct? or am i getting ripped blind?

last time i did a head on an rb30e the complete vrs kit was $180!

was goping to buy exhuast inlet sepperatly off this site and get engineer to suplly cam seal and valve stem seals, thought it would be cheaper see'ing as no VRS kit comes with cometic head gaskit.

Buy the Geneuine VRS kit that come with cam seals, headgasket (that u can sell off), rocker cover gaskets, inlet/exh gaskets, plenum gaskets, valve stem seals and a few other little bits.

They are worth ~$280 from Nissan.

I priced up a set of valve stem seals from nissan for $330. :S

[kaige]

Is it really worth getting a crank collar if you use the N1 oil pump?

only chasing max 350 rwhp with t04e

Edited October 30, 2006 by kaige