SirRacer Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 the guide is still superb even when ive been reading this thread for over a year the r33 series 2 boxes are also a push clutch. a guy i know who works at a nissan wrecker has confirmed Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2779628 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mambastu Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Hi fellas, Just spent the last few days reading the thread Theres some good info here. I've got a few questions that I don't think have been brought up before or if they have they've not been completely answered anyway. Does anyone have any piston/pin and conrod weights for the standard RB30 parts compared to the aftermarket options ? At the moment I'm looking at CP 9.0 to 1 pistons and Spool rods so would be interested to know if they're lighter or heavier than the standard parts and how they compare to other makes. I've been looking at balancers from ATI and Ross. The Ross balancers seem to be quite cheap in comparison to the ATI balancers. Are they comparable or are the ATI balancers worth the extra money ? Does anybody have the correct part number for the ATI balancer I'd need to replace a R33GTS-T series 2 RB25 balancer retaining the Alternator/Power Steering and A/C belts ? Cheers and happy New Year Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2780157 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Im using Scat H beams which are heavier than stock, the pistons are ARIAS and are lighter than stock. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2781488 Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zx? Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 um ok everyone i have jus a little question to ask?? i have a rb25det in a stock r33 95model with cooked rings and pistons...all else is fine... crank .. barings head turbo etc... and i also have a rb30 sitting there rotting doing nothing. as i could jus bore and fit new pistons to the rb25 for a cheap fix i was wondering if i could use the rb30 bottom end to my advantage some how to get some extra KW..??... i have only a few K to spend and am very smart at mechanics and electrical is there anyway i can win ?????? or am i jus better doing what i know best and rebuilding the rb25 to standard specs.. please i would like a reply from someone who actually knows wat to do best... i dont want some 500 rwkw monster but mabey chase 250 rwkw somehow????? please anyone with some sensible answers will be much apreciated..... TKS...................oh and i have a immaculate 300zxtt man totally origonal with very nice 18in alloys for sale pearl yellow. [email protected] Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782117 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 In my opinion, it'd be far cheaper to do the work to ur rb25 than to do the rb25/30 combination. There's just soo man little things u gotta replace/change when doing a full conversion like this, and it adds up to alot quite quickly. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782129 Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zx? Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 i understand wat your saying. and im a pretty confident mechanic are the little things really that expensive or that much trouble to do ?? im looking for a little bit more explanitive answer if you can ??????? please only if you have time??? unlike alot i have read i actually am going to do this within the next few days and really need some good advice from someone. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782147 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISL33P Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 so whats the latest with the belt tensioner and belt to use as i am doing this to my head on the next few weeks. also do you use two tensioners or 1 idler and 1 tensioner ? Thanks, Ariel Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782214 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemini90 Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 ok guys i just went through the whole timming belt thing if you want to use a 150 tooth belt go to you local auto one or repco and ask them fo a AUSTRAL timing belt T306A they are in syd an i got mine in about an hour there 150tooth abd 23mm wide cost is $70 hope that helps Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782256 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Guys; on the timing belt issue, the preferred way of mounting the tensioners seems to be hi/low, as opposed to close together just above the water pump as in the stock RB26 set up. it appears that the problem with the 2nd method is that the tensioners are too close tegether and there is minimal clearance between the belt surfaces. has anyone tried to overcome the problem with the 2nd method by using smaller circumference tensioners from another engine thus allowing the use of a shorter belt and creating more clearance between the belt surfaces? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782367 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaige Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 (edited) ok guys i just went through the whole timming belt thing if you want to use a 150 tooth belt go to you local auto one or repco and ask them fo a AUSTRAL timing belt T306A they are in syd an i got mine in about an hour there 150tooth abd 23mm wide cost is $70 hope that helps dude your a ledgend! just rang repco picking it up on tuesday. Hope the pitch in the teeth are the same and it sits on the cam/crank gears nice Have to use two tensioners either way you go about fitting the belt, there is plenty of room using the stock position there is just no way the timming belt could foul. Although the two inner sides of the belt are close, the belt is at its tightest point with least movement. Edited December 30, 2006 by kaige Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782444 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 The belts being close together on the two lower tensioners really doesn't bother me. Its the length of the belt from the cam gears to the tensioners. The RB30 block is ~38mm longer... but on the other hand the sohc RB30 runs the cam belt the same way but with only a single tensioner so that also shouldn't be an issue. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782528 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 i understand wat your saying. and im a pretty confident mechanic are the little things really that expensive or that much trouble to do ?? im looking for a little bit more explanitive answer if you can ??????? please only if you have time??? unlike alot i have read i actually am going to do this within the next few days and really need some good advice from someone. gaskets, oil seals really aren't cheap. plus i did an rb26/30, so i cant give u in depth details of what you need to do, i have a rough idea, but i havnt done it to a 25/30. I'm sure some of the others will be able to give u a run down though Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782607 Share on other sites More sharing options...
300zx? Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 gaskets, oil seals really aren't cheap. plus i did an rb26/30, so i cant give u in depth details of what you need to do, i have a rough idea, but i havnt done it to a 25/30. I'm sure some of the others will be able to give u a run down though ok thanks mate....... well i will ask you something else then. the pistons in the bores seem fairly loose could i jus chuck em back in with new rings and make a goer for now ??? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782636 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 ok thanks mate....... well i will ask you something else then. the pistons in the bores seem fairly loose could i jus chuck em back in with new rings and make a goer for now ??? depends what condition your bores & bearings are in, and i'd be double checking the clearances also. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782660 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 (edited) ok guys i just went through the whole timming belt thing if you want to use a 150 tooth belt go to you local auto one or repco and ask them fo a AUSTRAL timing belt T306A they are in syd an i got mine in about an hour there 150tooth abd 23mm wide cost is $70 hope that helps I'm also keen to know if this belt fits the tooth profile. Does anyone know for certain what the thread size is for the RB30 oil pressure switch? Can fit an 1/8 NPT-27 tap in there but won't accept a sender of the same size. I think it's metric but not sure. Edited December 30, 2006 by Scooby Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782822 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 300zx... If the RB30 is going in to a RWD then its very straight forward and will cost the same as rebuilding the RB25 with the ONLY exception being the head modification for VCT IF you run an R33 GTST head. If its going in to a GTS4 or GTR then there is quite a few added little costs with lots little buggering around to get everything to fit. RWD + RB30.. Piece of piss. When I dropped my motor in and everything bolted up I sat there for a second looking, double checking and triple checking everything was ok and in as it seemed all too easy. Started her up on the stock ecu and drove it like that for close to 10k. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2782975 Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanef Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 I'm also keen to know if this belt fits the tooth profile.Does anyone know for certain what the thread size is for the RB30 oil pressure switch? Can fit an 1/8 NPT-27 tap in there but won't accept a sender of the same size. I think it's metric but not sure. i just went and did a check, it looks to be imperial, as i checked it with a 1.25 and a 1.50 pitch taps and the 1.25 is slightly too big. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2783227 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaige Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 i just went and did a check, it looks to be imperial, as i checked it with a 1.25 and a 1.50 pitch taps and the 1.25 is slightly too big. ill just buy one on tuesday, ill let you's know how it fits! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2783267 Share on other sites More sharing options...
r33_racer Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 if its not 1/8 npt...it will be 1/8 bsp. The two will look exactly the same until you put a thread pitch gauge on it and see or something else that you know has a certain pitch. Either way its tapering. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2783737 Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaige Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 (edited) if its not 1/8 npt...it will be 1/8 bsp. The two will look exactly the same until you put a thread pitch gauge on it and see or something else that you know has a certain pitch. Either way its tapering. I sent an e-mail to twinvl who made this site: http://www.users.bigpond.com/allanreynolds...enewtwinvl.html He's now using the same belt p/n T306 due to the gates not fitting properly so should be all fine! Edited December 31, 2006 by kaige Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/226/#findComment-2784243 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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