Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah they finally released it, actually useful data for once

pitty it needs to much damn turbine speed to get anything useful from it

whats a realistic rpm we are talking to get a 0.70 a/r housing fast enough to make the compressor flow 1.5 bar. is there a way to mathematically work this out?

given that we know required turbine speed and pressure ratio ?

72% efficiency for 65 lbs/min of airflow for 1.5 bar boost at just under 100,000 rpm is pretty damn good.

A ball bearing turbo will last forever at those sorts of loads.

The only turbine map I have seen is for the 0.84.

t04zturbine.gif

:P cheers :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think we figured out why ours isnt holding boost. To do with a lack of backpressure in our exhaust system now haha. So yeh..hopefully find out in a day or so if the fix will work.

Spoolup...what manifold are you running again? Is it one of Kyles? Ok so i just backchecked last page...and you do run one of kyles. Well i just got back from seeing kyle at Mercury before. With our situation, because we put a 4" system on now there is virtually no backpressure whatsoever and because his manifolds are so efficient and now our exhaust system is super efficient, the exhaust gas is bypassing the wastegate completely as soon as gas velocity starts to skyrocket. Kyles fix, for us atleast, is to modify the rear housing so the wastegate is mounted straight off the turbines feed so exhaust gas is forced into the wastegate and cannot bypass thus letting us control boost pressure perfectly. Ive got a modified housing with me now, which will go on tomorrow hopefully or asap and we will know how it goes, but im highly confident it will fix the problem.

Unfortunately I dont think that will fix your problem Spoolup. :)

Edited by r33_racer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey all. You may of covered this already but 241 pages is alot to read lol. What crank is everyone running on the conversion. I found out today my the crank i got with my rb30 block is no good. Do you think its worth the money and finding a performance crank or just put my money elsewhere go find another crank from the wreckers and just get it checked over?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey all. You may of covered this already but 241 pages is alot to read lol. What crank is everyone running on the conversion. I found out today my the crank i got with my rb30 block is no good. Do you think its worth the money and finding a performance crank or just put my money elsewhere go find another crank from the wreckers and just get it checked over?

Hi pal, depends what you want out of your engine.

stock rb30 should be fine. Thats what i'm using for my build.

simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah funny enough I was talking to Kyle today about my problem also, he said he had a 60mm hks gate like mine there that had a 3mm gap between the valve and the seat, and it was new. So Ill put some plasticine on the seat and put the gate back on, then pull it apart to see if the valve is actually seating on the seat ( it should have approx 1 mm of preload ).

Oh the joy of it all :-)

i think we figured out why ours isnt holding boost. To do with a lack of backpressure in our exhaust system now haha. So yeh..hopefully find out in a day or so if the fix will work.

Spoolup...what manifold are you running again? Is it one of Kyles? Ok so i just backchecked last page...and you do run one of kyles. Well i just got back from seeing kyle at Mercury before. With our situation, because we put a 4" system on now there is virtually no backpressure whatsoever and because his manifolds are so efficient and now our exhaust system is super efficient, the exhaust gas is bypassing the wastegate completely as soon as gas velocity starts to skyrocket. Kyles fix, for us atleast, is to modify the rear housing so the wastegate is mounted straight off the turbines feed so exhaust gas is forced into the wastegate and cannot bypass thus letting us control boost pressure perfectly. Ive got a modified housing with me now, which will go on tomorrow hopefully or asap and we will know how it goes, but im highly confident it will fix the problem.

Unfortunately I dont think that will fix your problem Spoolup. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some photos of kyles manifold, it shows the wastegate pipe setup. These are for Sky30 more so, but it may be of some interest to everyone else.

post-12828-1171275812.jpg

post-12828-1171275835.jpg

post-12828-1171275851.jpg

post-12828-1171275971.jpg

post-12828-1171280712.jpg Just for you cubes :D

Edited by r33_racer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting.. Kyle has gone all out with preventing reversion.

Very nice exhaust manifold. I have never seen the collector of one.

Awesome Pics. Thanks. :D

You didn't grab any of directly down the throat of the collector did you? :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok guys, just finished dummy fitting the engine in the engine bay, what a farking task, as its been out for about 8 months now.

Ok its in and sitting on the engine mounts, however, the front is sticking up in the air far too much, and the bonnet is no wear near closing. I'm using the std RB26 engine mounts, and i've tried to fit them and the rb30 ones in all sort of combo's but the only ones that fit r the std rb26 ones. I had a quick look underneath, and it seems to me that part of the sump, is resting on the cross member, has anyone dealt with an rb26/30 in a gtr before? Oh and in regards to if the dumps clear the firewall, yes they did, only just however, as i've removed the aircon, the drain pipe that comes out of the firewall was removed, and the dumps JUST fitted down there, i had to force it a bit to get the pass. engine mount in the hole, but it fits.

heres the pics i took:

Picture003.jpg

Picture002.jpg

Picture001.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Shane, not sure what's going on there. Cross member clearance shouldn't be a problem, the deck height is increased at the upper end of the block from the top of the water pump upwards. And the bonnet should well and truly close if you can fit a strut brace under there, the're a lot higher than 38mm above the cam covers. The engine is supposed to be on a bit of an angle but the clearance should still be good. Try looking on the GTROC UK site for comparison pics

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...ight=r32+combat

at the risk of stating the obvious it seems that the whole engine is tilted way to far up at the front and that's what is causing the sump to hit at the rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Shane, not sure what's going on there. Cross member clearance shouldn't be a problem, the deck height is increased at the upper end of the block from the top of the water pump upwards. And the bonnet should well and truly close if you can fit a strut brace under there, the're a lot higher than 38mm above the cam covers. The engine is supposed to be on a bit of an angle but the clearance should still be good. Try looking on the GTROC UK site for comparison pics

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...ight=r32+combat

at the risk of stating the obvious it seems that the whole engine is tilted way to far up at the front and that's what is causing the sump to hit at the rear.

The GTR/GTS4's run a block/sump adaptot plate so it also lowers the sump down slightly.

Anotonys GTS4, everything is VERY close. The bonnet had to be cut as the cam belt cover was touching.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is so farked. I have an RB26 bottom end with Eagle rods ready to go with an RB25DE head when i find one. I was planning on using a 3076R 56trim with the HKS manifold and wastegate i have. I also have SKY30's old Apexi cams.

NOW, here is the problem. I thought a 3076R with 2.6L would be very puncy. But on the weekend i went in an RB25 with 270rwkws from a HKS GT-RS, headwork and Proncams. I was expecting it to have more grunt and pull.

Now my problem is i was planning on using a turbo bigger then the GT-RS and i now doubt i will get what i want from the RB26. :laugh:

I have looked through the RB30 results and i cant see anyone using a 3076R on an RB30. Can anyone point me in the direction of an RB30 with a similar setup so i can get an idea of the mid range it will have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Troymeister,

This is an old dyno sheet i've kept since the early rb30det days.

I believe it was a GT3040 .82 running 1bar. Both were tuned to optimal afr's and ignition, std plenum nice ext gate hotside.

I believe it was this bloke that later went the gt35r .82, he said he's never looked back. I've actually had a couple tell me that. GT30r to GT35r and never looked back.

For the track I really think the GT35r .82 is a really nice match. I'm going a GT35r .82 with the xr6 .5 comp cover, as suggested by the local turbo bloke (ATS). It should be good for up to around 350rwkw. Why the .5, well I suggested it and he said most definitely, it improves streetability without killing top end for the power levels you are looking at.

Also.. Antony's Rb30DET gt35r .82exh .7comp. Loaded up on the brake I saw 15psi by a shade over 3000rpm!! I was quite impressed. Its slowly being all sorted and turning in to an awesome package. As should mine be after I stop this damn mig wire sticking to the item I'm welding. :laugh:

post-382-1171361925.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great write up. I was thinking abt getting the niftycity for my g37 the aliexpress links u shared r not working anymore. Can u share again please?
    • Good turnout and some old faces.
    • Wow its been a while since Ive signed in for sure.  Time gets away... Good question. So much was different between the two designs.  The RB315 was a test to see if I could do it.  Limitations were for the most part due to local machining capability.  Tolerances were an issue.  The 3.15 used a single OD dry sleeve, and was almost the same as a kakimoto spacer plate engine, except I used a plate design similar to the OS Giken plate.  I did not make the top flanges thick enough either.  I can't be sure if it was machining tolerances, or thermal distortion of the sleeves, but the engine did produce quite a bit of blow by.  The modified 87mm RB30 crank was also an issue, and was no where near as nicely balanced as the forged 90mm crank in the 3.4. The 34 was a next level build.  The sleeves were stepped for max thickness, and were a semi-wet design breaking though into coolant completely in the block.  Minimum thickness was 3.75mm and max was 5mm with the 90mm bore, and the new spacer plate also fully supported the tops of the sleeves closed deck style.  This combined with far superior CNC machining, and a cylinder hone finish that the machinist does on 3000hp pro stock cars resulted in no noticeable blow by at all.   In the end the 3.15 was removed to swap in the 3.4.  I discovered the modified RB30 crank had partially sheared the woodruff key on the balancer.  That was all that was wrong with it, but it did make the engine a paperweight at that stage. $1100 to make another crank for an engine with blow by issues was not worth it, considering I'd started playing with all Nitto forged internals instead. I hope you found this interesting.   Cheers, Ian
    • All their parts, when order directly off them are made to order. So you're able to customise fitment of things or delete things. E.g. I asked for no throttle cable bracket, no IACV port, etc. on my plenum. In hindsight, I should have asked for an IAT port/fitting welded on, hindsight no. Should have bought a M2 or 3 lol.
×
×
  • Create New...