R33 Rb30 Conversion

[frogstomp_R31]

there are alot of pages but after reading all 247 pages its worth its weight in gold theres heaps of info etc ill be using apon my new motor

[Alf]

Bookmark the pages that are important to you.

Its information overload to newbies.

Edited February 25, 2007 by Alf

[Spoolup]

Ill let u know on Wednesday - Im taking it easy until its tuned again due to the rooted cat that I had.

But its coming on boost around 3000.

Also I just found that 26 oil pick up - PM me your address again.

Brad, What Rpm does the T04z hit full boost, say in 4th gear? What rear housing you got?

[Sydneykid]

Hi I have read a lot of the last 247 pages and searched as much as I can but still have a few unanswered questions I was hoping you guys could help me out with. Im putting the rb25/30 standard bottom end engine in a r32 and gonna use a TO4z turbo. The car will be used for track days, tarmac events, and the like.

So here goes…

1. If (can) I use a RB26DETT d-jetro power fc. Ive read its been done before but with what sensors? I’m hoping to use my rb20det sensors and loom.

2. If I use the d-jetro will it control the VVT solenoid in my RB25DET head? If not, can I remove the vvt pulley and cam and use a RB20DET cam with adjustable pulley.

3 If I can I would probably get it ground for longer duration and higher lift, I think SK recommends 264 – 270 duration – but what is the max lift I can use without having to machine anything.

4. Will the PFC run high and low impedance injectors?

5. If the vvt cam is removed can I supply the oil for the cam bearing via the vvt solenoid hole?

6. How do I get top feed injectors to fit an rb25det (side feed) plenum. Is there a seal or o-ring I can use?

Thanks heaps for the help.

Rob.

Do yourself a favour Rob, sell the RB25 top end and buy an RB26 top end. Far superior solution. much easier to work on, cheaper and eassier to get parts for (new and used), designed for circuit work and most of all IT IS CHEAPER when you add it up.

T04Z + standard bottom end = not a good idea

To keep the bottom end alive you are going to be running the T04Z way outside its efficiency.

For circuit work you need response and you are simply not going to get it with that combination.

cheers

[shanef]

okay lads, im in a bit of a pickle.

i've been looking into results other people have gotten, and i dont see any lowmounts making 700-750bhp. What i've been looking at, is the HKS T04z or HKS T51 KAI BB. Which one will give me the 700-750bhp that i need, on ~1.8bar. Also how much of a difference is there between the HKS ones and their Garrett variants.

[Sydneykid]

okay lads, im in a bit of a pickle.

i've been looking into results other people have gotten, and i dont see any lowmounts making 700-750bhp. What i've been looking at, is the HKS T04z or HKS T51 KAI BB. Which one will give me the 700-750bhp that i need, on ~1.8bar. Also how much of a difference is there between the HKS ones and their Garrett variants.

What fuel are you going to run to get the 750 bhp?

We have achieved more than that with a pair of GTRS's on Elf Turbo Max.

cheers

[shanef]

What fuel are you going to run to get the 750 bhp?

We have achieved more than that with a pair of GTRS's on Elf Turbo Max.

cheers

at ~$8/ltr c16 or equivalent isnt an option for me.

So normal 98 optimax will have to be it. (it's still street driven)

ELF is what, 110ron? what boost did u need to smack into it to get those numbers?

[Sydneykid]

at ~$8/ltr c16 or equivalent isnt an option for me.

So normal 98 optimax will have to be it.

ELF is what, 110ron? what boost did u need to smack into it to get those numbers?

Shell V Power Racing 100 ron would be better, can you get that where you live?

Boost is irrelevant, after all it is simply a measure of the restriction to airflow, when it is the airflow itself that makes the power. We run ~1.5 bar because we have removed the restrictions.

cheers

[shanef]

Shell V Power Racing 100 ron would be better, can you get that where you live?

Boost is irrelevant, after all it is simply a measure of the restriction to airflow, when it is the airflow itself that makes the power. We run ~1.5 bar because we have removed the restrictions.

cheers

yes i'm able to get that shell stuff

interesting indeed, can u give details? i'll pop u a pm

[Sydneykid]

yes i'm able to get that shell stuff

interesting indeed, can u give details? i'll pop u a pm

Try a search

"restriction"

"Sydneykid"

"any date"

"Posts"

That should turn up almost everything you need, then you can fill in the gaps with a PM.

cheers

[shanef]

Try a search

"restriction"

"Sydneykid"

"any date"

"Posts"

That should turn up almost everything you need, then you can fill in the gaps with a PM.

cheers

sweet, give me an hour or two and i'll re pm you. Dont bother replying to that one i just sent u lol.

[Roy]

Forget about whether or not the RB26 head itself is "better", the fact is it will work out cheaper when you add it all up. Inlet manifold, multiple throttle bodies, plenum, top feed injectors, cams, solid followers, no VVT, adj camshaft pulleys, valves, valves springs etc etc. They are what makes an RB26 head the ONLY way to go.

cheers

Cheaper? The way i see it if you buy a low km import motor and use the RB25DE head then once you put springs in it there is no reason to rebuild the head. So head + valvesprings is less then $800. I happen to have cams to go into mine so thats $1400. Now if i ran an RB26 head then i would be looking at $1500 for a shitter of a head of a blown motor that i would have to rebuilt. So there is $2500 total. If i use std manifold then i have to go twin. So now i have to get an aftermarket manifold.

So...i will stick with the poor mans head...by my calcs its a much cheaper option and after doing some homework there is a bit of thinking that says the RB25 head and plenum will be better for what im doing...Also dont need new harness etc and sensors. And after playign around with an RB26 manifold on the weekend i dotn want to go anywhere near one. And sure as hell dont want to run twins...

[Sydneykid]

Cheaper? The way i see it if you buy a low km import motor and use the RB25DE head then once you put springs in it there is no reason to rebuild the head. So head + valvesprings is less then $800. I happen to have cams to go into mine so thats $1400. Now if i ran an RB26 head then i would be looking at $1500 for a shitter of a head of a blown motor that i would have to rebuilt. So there is $2500 total. If i use std manifold then i have to go twin. So now i have to get an aftermarket manifold.

So...i will stick with the poor mans head...by my calcs its a much cheaper option and after doing some homework there is a bit of thinking that says the RB25 head and plenum will be better for what im doing...Also dont need new harness etc and sensors. And after playign around with an RB26 manifold on the weekend i dotn want to go anywhere near one. And sure as hell dont want to run twins...

As with everything, it depends on your power target. As soon as you are looking for more than 300 rwkw, with any sort of decent response, the RB26 head works out cheaper.

cheers

[Spoolup]

oh how true.

power = $ and theres no way around it

[roba]

Yeh I was looking for a decent GTR head for about 4 months here in NZ and found nothing suitable... One was 2.4K!!!

Unfortunately im pretty committed to the 25 head as i have the intake and exhaust plenum/manifold well under way.

SK could you help out with some of my questions... ive numbvered them just the way u like it

Just to clarify

2. Can I use some reground rb20det cams to get rid of the vvt and allow adjustable pullies

6. I have top feed GTR injectors and a custom fuel rail, but the injectors dont sit in the rb25 (side feed) holes very well... is there a seal i can use - see pic.

Thanks for the help

rob.

[Spoolup]

Yes you can run the rb20 cams as long as you modify the water and oil gallery in the head to suit the rb30 block.

Yeh I was looking for a decent GTR head for about 4 months here in NZ and found nothing suitable... One was 2.4K!!!

Unfortunately im pretty committed to the 25 head as i have the intake and exhaust plenum/manifold well under way.

SK could you help out with some of my questions... ive numbvered them just the way u like it

Just to clarify

2. Can I use some reground rb20det cams to get rid of the vvt and allow adjustable pullies

6. I have top feed GTR injectors and a custom fuel rail, but the injectors dont sit in the rb25 (side feed) holes very well... is there a seal i can use - see pic.

Thanks for the help

rob.

[r33_racer]

god i hate the rb25 head....its so shit. Just a general comment.

I wanna go back intime about a year ago when we first built the 30det so i can do it with a 26 head instead. Curse my old man!

[GTRgeoff]

The pig is in the car.

There is always a price to pay so by completely assembling the engine prior to fitting I discovered just how little engine bay room there is. It looks so big when there is no motor in there.

There are always just little things popping up that need to be dealt with like bolts and hoses.

Bursons had a Dayco belt in for me in a couple of hours. Now to bolt up the bell housing and starter and finish the electrics. Might be on the dyno about lunchtime.

[aphid]

geoff you're a machine

The pig is in the car.

There is always a price to pay so by completely assembling the engine prior to fitting I discovered just how little engine bay room there is. It looks so big when there is no motor in there.

There are always just little things popping up that need to be dealt with like bolts and hoses.

Bursons had a Dayco belt in for me in a couple of hours. Now to bolt up the bell housing and starter and finish the electrics. Might be on the dyno about lunchtime.

[r33_racer]

dear son of rajab thats awesome work geoff. 1 man army workforce.