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lol...

so fuel hose ( what size ) and speedlow fittings :-)

Do you run it underbody along the old line ?

From memory, Dash 6 fittings, they bolt straigh to the pump and 9 mm ID hose.

Under the car using the standard fuel rail clamps.

I use the standard feed pipework as the return and remove the standard return pipework.

On the R32GTST, I used the HICAS pipework, it was there, in the right place and plenty big enough.

:rofl: cheers :)

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I just got to scan dyno graph - will post it up here soon.

Sard regulator, 3 inch exhaust full length - with a CES cat ( rated at 700 bhp )

Are you going to try run bigger fuel line?

Get that scanner working, im keen to compare...

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yes Im going to do as Gary suggested before touching or upgrading pumps.

I want to go over 500rwhp even if just for wank factor :-)

Im getting a scanner tomorrow so should have something up over the weekend

Are you going to try run bigger fuel line?

Get that scanner working, im keen to compare...

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Just got back from mercury before we ran the car up with kyle and with a few little adjustments with no water/meth on 18psi we got 340rwkws out of it.

Gotta change a few things like wastegate spring is too weak (7psi spring) and boost is dropping up high to 17psi, so going for 14 and 7 for 21psi. Im hoping that with the extra boost some more timing and the water/meth injection which should allow the extra timing/boost we can crack 400rwkws, even though it aint knocking yet. Im guessing with a full tune without water/meth we can get to 370 and then the last 30 with the injection.

Edited by r33_racer
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Thanks Cubes

r33 racer well picked up....you are on the ball, but it was just to say well done since i hadn't heard anything and was keeping an eye out on the thread with his updates.

Its always good to see a car up and running. You would be surprised how many people have a collection of parts in their garage/cupboard.

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haha ISL33P actually i already knew he had one on his car previously. I just said it like that so it seemed i was highly intuitive. I can relate to the amount of parts in the garage though, we are upto our necks in spare junk.

Yeh the problem was from a boost leak where the i/c pipe went into the silicon hose on the tank of the i/c - inlet side. The whole system wouldnt hold 5psi. So i fabbed up a new inlet i/c pipe which fixed that. So we are outta the woods for now. At the moment were getting full boost at about 4500rpm, which is a big difference in lag, we should be around the 3700rpm fullboost, which will be 21psi. Were hoping to just control boost with springs and nothing else, as the wastegate is now directly running off our turbine housing. So hopefully on the next tune fullboost will be achieved earlier then 4500rpm. I should have got the print out and posted it on here.

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whooo hoo - you must be a happy chappy having finally sorted it Michael.

Its always a process of elimination with these things, its just the frustration of having to sort through all the variables to finally find the root of the cause. I know it was driving me loopy trying to find my problem.

When I get some tyres sorted drop around and Ill take you for a spin.

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Thanks Ariel - Your plenum obviously works well :-) Highly recommended

quote name='ISL33P' date='1 Mar 2007, 10:10 PM' post='2946307']

Thanks Cubes

r33 racer well picked up....you are on the ball, but it was just to say well done since i hadn't heard anything and was keeping an eye out on the thread with his updates.

Its always good to see a car up and running. You would be surprised how many people have a collection of parts in their garage/cupboard.

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shit yeh brad...its good when problems get sorted. Dont have to stress anymore about any wild theories which would end up in engine pull out to fix.

And shit yeh to the spin...woot. Its going to be a headspin machine for sure.

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Bought some Toyo R888's today - holy crap what a difference. Its like driving the millenium falcon now, all the power gets to the road with barely any wheel spin.

Awesome !!

Probably break something in the drive train soon now :-)

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Ok Guys after reading alot about oil setups, i'm a bit worried about my sump, i am retrofitting a rb30det into an old Lc gtr torana, the sump has been modified dramaticly to fit, it looks like this

sump1.jpg

sump2.jpg

sump3.jpg

Now the front of the pan is pretty thin i am worried about not being able to fit any baffles(not enough room), so i might get a fair bit of crank dipping, also the oil may take it's time getting back to the pickup area (which is quite small doesn't look like it can hold much ) does anyone know if these are going to be an issue? the motors going to be putting out around 500rwhp

Ive been looking at dry sump setups just incase. and i have an idea... if i run a scavanger pump from the bottom of the pickup area in the sump to a remote tank situated above the engine. then at the bottom of that remote tank have a large pipe gravity feeding to the exsisting n1 oil pump pickup,

Will the n1 pump have enough suction to pull oil from the top remote tank.. it will be pulling basicly strait down, so gravity will be on it's side..

Is the sump going to cause me problems?

Or does it look like it's going to be fine

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Bought some Toyo R888's today - holy crap what a difference. Its like driving the millenium falcon now, all the power gets to the road with barely any wheel spin.

Awesome !!

Probably break something in the drive train soon now :-)

New tyres make the car a whole lot faster hey Brad.

You get a scan of that graph??

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As far as I know Wiesco only make one type of RB25 piston - so you have no choice.

If you are going to use there RB25 piston you need to work backwards and calculate the comp ratio you will have with them, then figure out what thickness head gasket you will need to achieve the comp ratio you actually want.

PISTONS:

i want to clear this up, if I use weisco rb25det pistons, what compression should i order, of the shelf version, suggestions?

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