Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL of course I know you need to use Skyline parts - what I meant was whether the balancer has to be from a RB30, RB26 or RB25 or are they all interchangeable?

Keep it simple try not to think too much. :pirate:

I've said use the balancer that is suited to your ancillaries, so do just that. :ph34r:

All pulleys must match and line up. So... use the balancer that is matched to your ancillaries, that would be the balancer that came with the car.

Just to add to Cubes reply, You definitely wana keep it all the same.

VL's used two different Rb30 balancers (year specific/different belts).

I'm sticking with the VL setup -cheaper to replace pwr steer pump etc..

Edited by Alf

lucky, i just bought a sexy rb30 power bond harmonic balancer for my 25/30, lucky it still lines up then- i ditched the a/c tho as the balancer doesnt use it, one less thing to worry about.

my donk will start bein assembled this weekend and over the next couple, just dummied the head/block/plenum/turbo and ex mani up to see how everything lines up (pics below) and everythings sweet except the vvt oil feed which comes real close to the plenum. can anyone see any probs which i have missed??

also i heard that the block needs shaving on the ex side for the mani to fit, however mine was all good, is this normal??

post-23187-1175613466.jpg

post-23187-1175613559.jpg

post-23187-1175613578.jpg

post-23187-1175613728.jpg

It was a new one..however its just been rebuilt by Mr Turbo down the coast...so it should come back stronger and better.

Lucky there.

On the new motor we ran too tighter bearing clearances and the crank started picking up bearing metal and it clogged the oil feed line to the turbo..starved it of oil and bam...ball bearings in the dry sump tank! However that has now been rectified.

Well we plastigauged mains and big ends at 1.5 thou'or .030mm i think it would be if ive calculated that in my head right...rough enough maybe?

Need bigger for race motor with relatively big power, and doesnt get run in....gets built, straight on dyno and then raced.

I've got a RB30 block sitting on the floor infront of my RB25. I'm wondering if I should put a set a cams in it before i do the conversion? Sure you can make good power with the stock items..

But, is it a better option to do the cams and make a fatter power curve, or spend the money somewhere else?

I'm in 2 minds.. but leaning towards something like a pair of step2 HKS.

They will be fitted with adj gears. which I hope to buy very soon.

I want to make a strong power figure, but not so keen to have to pull 8000rpm to make it. Hence the conversion. I'm after about 420ish rear hp. got GT3040r. it should come on strong a bit earlier than the 35.

Am I thinking right?

cheers.

I've got a RB30 block sitting on the floor infront of my RB25. I'm wondering if I should put a set a cams in it before i do the conversion? Sure you can make good power with the stock items..

But, is it a better option to do the cams and make a fatter power curve, or spend the money somewhere else?

I'm in 2 minds.. but leaning towards something like a pair of step2 HKS.

They will be fitted with adj gears. which I hope to buy very soon.

I want to make a strong power figure, but not so keen to have to pull 8000rpm to make it. Hence the conversion. I'm after about 420ish rear hp. got GT3040r. it should come on strong a bit earlier than the 35.

Am I thinking right?

cheers.

the right cams (not sure what they are) will certainly give you more low-mid power. However depends how big a cams u put in, you'll have to check the head and possibly get it machined to clear the lobes. Oh and you may also need heavy duty springs.

Also, it may be worth while spending the extra money and rebuilding the head and getting a light port job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...