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Wrong.

The best choice is the one that suits your car (unless you have a 19th century technology R31 or earlier). Then you work around that. I have the 26/30 in the GTS25t with 26 plenum and throttles and TT's and run it all with the 25t PFC, and the only sensor changes were the z32 and the water temp sensor since the 26 sensor maxes the temp signal. Even as a TT I have it set up for single AFM. I also have a single O2 sensor at the split pipe join.

If you have to use twin AFM's then you can wire it to supply an average input from the sensors.

Cummon geoff, how is an s15 PFC going to run an rb30, just cut two cylinders off?

Good point, but I thought we were talking about cars and not silvias and the like..... :wave:

Could be a bit of a pig to splice in, but that's the fun of it.

admit it geoff, u farked up

typical victorian :D

it was tight as shit to get on

but once it was on and we loosened the tensioners it sat nicely

tightened everything up and shes perfect

As stated earlier the head is on, cams are in, water pump, oil pump and tensioners are in. I ended up buying new RB30 tensioner studs from nissan. the guy asked me why I needed 2 and the conversation ended up with the dude being very confused :0 till I said think 3 litre RB25

Same results here with the RB25DE R33 head. it was a bastard to get on but now it is on the tension seems fine. you can just twist the belt 90deg.

I also read back something on cam journals seeming really loose. I have tightened mine up to 13.8nm. that is as low as my torque wrench goes. the specs say 9 to 12nm. is this going to be too tight? the cams will turn with some resistance. not much more than if there was 2nm holding the journals down.

Also fitted new rear main seal tonight. that was a bastard to get out. the old one was caked in there pretty good and its a tight press fit to get the new one it. but its all done.

The head I bought was a complete head that had been dissasembled and now I am getting down to the last few things I am starting to find little bolts here and there are missing. no biggie but i now have to find a few difficult parts.

1 cam journal bolt and washer

2 VCT cam wheel cover bolts (tiny m4? bolts)

1 exhaust cam wheel bolt

thats about it. soon as I have those bits she will be a complete engine.

I would really like to start it out of the car but I don't have a spare loom. Can't wait to get it in there.

Bastardized R32 GTS FTW!!!

If any of you guys have any of the bolts i need lying around please let me know

on topic FTW!!!

I am in a bit of a dilemma with my turbo and would like some advice. I am going to use my sliding performance RB25 hiflow with my 30det and am well aware the exhaust housing is WAAAAY to small. it makes 240rwkw on my RB20 and I would expect it will make 250 to 260rwkw on my RB30det.

that figure is pretty close to my power target but i imagine it will come on way to quickly and choke around 5000rpm. so I have been thinking about getting a bigger exhaust housing. something around .80

I have no idea on the internal specifications of the turbo as it is a hiflow. if I could get 260~280rwkw from this turbo with good response and not choking untill 7000rpm that would be fantastic.

The reason I want to stay with this turbo is that it is new and looks standard. the whole car is built to look standard and i want to keep it that way. so an aftermarket turbo is out of the question.

What sort of housings can fit standard RB turbochargers.

Thanks!

hey CEF11E

i should have spares, not 100% but ill check

pm me with wat u need (just in case i forget) and ill take a look

As stated earlier the head is on, cams are in, water pump, oil pump and tensioners are in. I ended up buying new RB30 tensioner studs from nissan. the guy asked me why I needed 2 and the conversation ended up with the dude being very confused :0 till I said think 3 litre RB25

Same results here with the RB25DE R33 head. it was a bastard to get on but now it is on the tension seems fine. you can just twist the belt 90deg.

I also read back something on cam journals seeming really loose. I have tightened mine up to 13.8nm. that is as low as my torque wrench goes. the specs say 9 to 12nm. is this going to be too tight? the cams will turn with some resistance. not much more than if there was 2nm holding the journals down.

Also fitted new rear main seal tonight. that was a bastard to get out. the old one was caked in there pretty good and its a tight press fit to get the new one it. but its all done.

The head I bought was a complete head that had been dissasembled and now I am getting down to the last few things I am starting to find little bolts here and there are missing. no biggie but i now have to find a few difficult parts.

1 cam journal bolt and washer

2 VCT cam wheel cover bolts (tiny m4? bolts)

1 exhaust cam wheel bolt

thats about it. soon as I have those bits she will be a complete engine.

I would really like to start it out of the car but I don't have a spare loom. Can't wait to get it in there.

Bastardized R32 GTS FTW!!!

If any of you guys have any of the bolts i need lying around please let me know

on topic FTW!!!

I am in a bit of a dilemma with my turbo and would like some advice. I am going to use my sliding performance RB25 hiflow with my 30det and am well aware the exhaust housing is WAAAAY to small. it makes 240rwkw on my RB20 and I would expect it will make 250 to 260rwkw on my RB30det.

that figure is pretty close to my power target but i imagine it will come on way to quickly and choke around 5000rpm. so I have been thinking about getting a bigger exhaust housing. something around .80

I have no idea on the internal specifications of the turbo as it is a hiflow. if I could get 260~280rwkw from this turbo with good response and not choking untill 7000rpm that would be fantastic.

The reason I want to stay with this turbo is that it is new and looks standard. the whole car is built to look standard and i want to keep it that way. so an aftermarket turbo is out of the question.

What sort of housings can fit standard RB turbochargers.

Thanks!

AVO do a .86 ex housing to suit a stock rb turbo, but i think they are about $800

AVO do a .86 ex housing to suit a stock rb turbo, but i think they are about $800

I just found those :D and after a bit more looking I spoke to precision turbochargers. the guy was a champ. he told me he could adapt a garrett internal gate .86 housing to my turbo for about $700. that sounds pretty good.

either that or sell my hiflow for $800 and put another $800ish towards a newie. bit it will not look stock.

I know I am living in dream land but I want a responsive 400hp pop the bonnet stock looking R32 :P

I think for now I am going to put the hiflow on as is and see how it goes.

You could always have the GT3076r fitted up to the .86 garrett IW and have the RB25det comp cover machined to suit. Be sure to grab the .6 comp cover and spend an extra $250-300 on machining the std comp cover.

At a later date when you get hungry for more strap on the .6 comp cover.

I'm almost certain the .6 comp cover would cost more than $250-300 so often when the turbo shop offers a 'deal' to machine your comp cover in return to keep the garrett comp cover its not really a deal that is good for yourself. :rofl:

That would look stock and push 450hp.

Aim for 450-500hp; I find mines starting to feel a little slow. Which had me briefly thinking; I wonder if its lost power. lol

I really do think the GT3076 .82 IW feels perfect for the street; instant off idle response in first gear; no lag just a strong off idle pull.

The dyno sheet really doesn't do it justice how it drives in the lower gears at part throttle on the street.

who's using an ATI RB26 balancer? question I have is weather you can get away with using the std RB25 power steering pump/pulley which is only 3 grove belt with the RB26 harmonic balancer using 4 grove pulley. I know the std pump needs to be spaced forward roughly 6mm, anyone had success with this or do you have to have a 4 grove pulley?? anyone made up a pulley for the RB25 pump?

who's using an ATI RB26 balancer? question I have is weather you can get away with using the std RB25 power steering pump/pulley which is only 3 grove belt with the RB26 harmonic balancer using 4 grove pulley. I know the std pump needs to be spaced forward roughly 6mm, anyone had success with this or do you have to have a 4 grove pulley?? anyone made up a pulley for the RB25 pump?

I have used a balancer with 4 ribs for power steering and only 3 ribs on the p/s pump. it does work fine but took a while to get it right (3 power steering belts) It does not come off even at extended 7000rpm use

hope this helps :)

I have used a balancer with 4 ribs for power steering and only 3 ribs on the p/s pump. it does work fine but took a while to get it right (3 power steering belts) It does not come off even at extended 7000rpm use

hope this helps :P

Sweet, Thanks! I was thinkin it would be as long as it lined up spot on, thought id see what other people had done/doing. Guess I can only F@#k it up!!!!!

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