Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrong.

The best choice is the one that suits your car (unless you have a 19th century technology R31 or earlier). Then you work around that. I have the 26/30 in the GTS25t with 26 plenum and throttles and TT's and run it all with the 25t PFC, and the only sensor changes were the z32 and the water temp sensor since the 26 sensor maxes the temp signal. Even as a TT I have it set up for single AFM. I also have a single O2 sensor at the split pipe join.

If you have to use twin AFM's then you can wire it to supply an average input from the sensors.

Cummon geoff, how is an s15 PFC going to run an rb30, just cut two cylinders off?

Good point, but I thought we were talking about cars and not silvias and the like..... :wave:

Could be a bit of a pig to splice in, but that's the fun of it.

admit it geoff, u farked up

typical victorian :D

it was tight as shit to get on

but once it was on and we loosened the tensioners it sat nicely

tightened everything up and shes perfect

As stated earlier the head is on, cams are in, water pump, oil pump and tensioners are in. I ended up buying new RB30 tensioner studs from nissan. the guy asked me why I needed 2 and the conversation ended up with the dude being very confused :0 till I said think 3 litre RB25

Same results here with the RB25DE R33 head. it was a bastard to get on but now it is on the tension seems fine. you can just twist the belt 90deg.

I also read back something on cam journals seeming really loose. I have tightened mine up to 13.8nm. that is as low as my torque wrench goes. the specs say 9 to 12nm. is this going to be too tight? the cams will turn with some resistance. not much more than if there was 2nm holding the journals down.

Also fitted new rear main seal tonight. that was a bastard to get out. the old one was caked in there pretty good and its a tight press fit to get the new one it. but its all done.

The head I bought was a complete head that had been dissasembled and now I am getting down to the last few things I am starting to find little bolts here and there are missing. no biggie but i now have to find a few difficult parts.

1 cam journal bolt and washer

2 VCT cam wheel cover bolts (tiny m4? bolts)

1 exhaust cam wheel bolt

thats about it. soon as I have those bits she will be a complete engine.

I would really like to start it out of the car but I don't have a spare loom. Can't wait to get it in there.

Bastardized R32 GTS FTW!!!

If any of you guys have any of the bolts i need lying around please let me know

on topic FTW!!!

I am in a bit of a dilemma with my turbo and would like some advice. I am going to use my sliding performance RB25 hiflow with my 30det and am well aware the exhaust housing is WAAAAY to small. it makes 240rwkw on my RB20 and I would expect it will make 250 to 260rwkw on my RB30det.

that figure is pretty close to my power target but i imagine it will come on way to quickly and choke around 5000rpm. so I have been thinking about getting a bigger exhaust housing. something around .80

I have no idea on the internal specifications of the turbo as it is a hiflow. if I could get 260~280rwkw from this turbo with good response and not choking untill 7000rpm that would be fantastic.

The reason I want to stay with this turbo is that it is new and looks standard. the whole car is built to look standard and i want to keep it that way. so an aftermarket turbo is out of the question.

What sort of housings can fit standard RB turbochargers.

Thanks!

hey CEF11E

i should have spares, not 100% but ill check

pm me with wat u need (just in case i forget) and ill take a look

As stated earlier the head is on, cams are in, water pump, oil pump and tensioners are in. I ended up buying new RB30 tensioner studs from nissan. the guy asked me why I needed 2 and the conversation ended up with the dude being very confused :0 till I said think 3 litre RB25

Same results here with the RB25DE R33 head. it was a bastard to get on but now it is on the tension seems fine. you can just twist the belt 90deg.

I also read back something on cam journals seeming really loose. I have tightened mine up to 13.8nm. that is as low as my torque wrench goes. the specs say 9 to 12nm. is this going to be too tight? the cams will turn with some resistance. not much more than if there was 2nm holding the journals down.

Also fitted new rear main seal tonight. that was a bastard to get out. the old one was caked in there pretty good and its a tight press fit to get the new one it. but its all done.

The head I bought was a complete head that had been dissasembled and now I am getting down to the last few things I am starting to find little bolts here and there are missing. no biggie but i now have to find a few difficult parts.

1 cam journal bolt and washer

2 VCT cam wheel cover bolts (tiny m4? bolts)

1 exhaust cam wheel bolt

thats about it. soon as I have those bits she will be a complete engine.

I would really like to start it out of the car but I don't have a spare loom. Can't wait to get it in there.

Bastardized R32 GTS FTW!!!

If any of you guys have any of the bolts i need lying around please let me know

on topic FTW!!!

I am in a bit of a dilemma with my turbo and would like some advice. I am going to use my sliding performance RB25 hiflow with my 30det and am well aware the exhaust housing is WAAAAY to small. it makes 240rwkw on my RB20 and I would expect it will make 250 to 260rwkw on my RB30det.

that figure is pretty close to my power target but i imagine it will come on way to quickly and choke around 5000rpm. so I have been thinking about getting a bigger exhaust housing. something around .80

I have no idea on the internal specifications of the turbo as it is a hiflow. if I could get 260~280rwkw from this turbo with good response and not choking untill 7000rpm that would be fantastic.

The reason I want to stay with this turbo is that it is new and looks standard. the whole car is built to look standard and i want to keep it that way. so an aftermarket turbo is out of the question.

What sort of housings can fit standard RB turbochargers.

Thanks!

AVO do a .86 ex housing to suit a stock rb turbo, but i think they are about $800

AVO do a .86 ex housing to suit a stock rb turbo, but i think they are about $800

I just found those :D and after a bit more looking I spoke to precision turbochargers. the guy was a champ. he told me he could adapt a garrett internal gate .86 housing to my turbo for about $700. that sounds pretty good.

either that or sell my hiflow for $800 and put another $800ish towards a newie. bit it will not look stock.

I know I am living in dream land but I want a responsive 400hp pop the bonnet stock looking R32 :P

I think for now I am going to put the hiflow on as is and see how it goes.

You could always have the GT3076r fitted up to the .86 garrett IW and have the RB25det comp cover machined to suit. Be sure to grab the .6 comp cover and spend an extra $250-300 on machining the std comp cover.

At a later date when you get hungry for more strap on the .6 comp cover.

I'm almost certain the .6 comp cover would cost more than $250-300 so often when the turbo shop offers a 'deal' to machine your comp cover in return to keep the garrett comp cover its not really a deal that is good for yourself. :rofl:

That would look stock and push 450hp.

Aim for 450-500hp; I find mines starting to feel a little slow. Which had me briefly thinking; I wonder if its lost power. lol

I really do think the GT3076 .82 IW feels perfect for the street; instant off idle response in first gear; no lag just a strong off idle pull.

The dyno sheet really doesn't do it justice how it drives in the lower gears at part throttle on the street.

who's using an ATI RB26 balancer? question I have is weather you can get away with using the std RB25 power steering pump/pulley which is only 3 grove belt with the RB26 harmonic balancer using 4 grove pulley. I know the std pump needs to be spaced forward roughly 6mm, anyone had success with this or do you have to have a 4 grove pulley?? anyone made up a pulley for the RB25 pump?

who's using an ATI RB26 balancer? question I have is weather you can get away with using the std RB25 power steering pump/pulley which is only 3 grove belt with the RB26 harmonic balancer using 4 grove pulley. I know the std pump needs to be spaced forward roughly 6mm, anyone had success with this or do you have to have a 4 grove pulley?? anyone made up a pulley for the RB25 pump?

I have used a balancer with 4 ribs for power steering and only 3 ribs on the p/s pump. it does work fine but took a while to get it right (3 power steering belts) It does not come off even at extended 7000rpm use

hope this helps :)

I have used a balancer with 4 ribs for power steering and only 3 ribs on the p/s pump. it does work fine but took a while to get it right (3 power steering belts) It does not come off even at extended 7000rpm use

hope this helps :P

Sweet, Thanks! I was thinkin it would be as long as it lined up spot on, thought id see what other people had done/doing. Guess I can only F@#k it up!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
    • Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
×
×
  • Create New...