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R33 Rb30 Conversion


JNR24

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thanks for that. i'm aiming to get as much juice out of the 35r as possible so i guess it would be wise to go for mid 8's! wonder if CP make a piston for this ratio?

back to my origional plan but with lower comp! thank's allot.

ps: what is the max boost a 35r can run anyway?

EDIT: read up on it. max i'v read was 40psi. 35-38psi is safe for the turbo?

Edited by GT-RZ
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thanks for that. i'm aiming to get as much juice out of the 35r as possible so i guess it would be wise to go for mid 8's! wonder if CP make a piston for this ratio?

back to my origional plan but with lower comp! thank's allot.

ps: what is the max boost a 35r can run anyway?

EDIT: read up on it. max i'v read was 40psi. 35-38psi is safe for the turbo?

I would assume that 35psi would be way outside the efficiency range for this turbo, for that sort of power i would be looking at an HKS T04Z, as they tend to have wheel trims suited to higher pressure ratios, but you would have to look at some compressor maps.

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We make "special" swaybars, under the Selbys Swaybars brand name everyday for all sorts of applications. The HE sump into R32/33 is very common and I made a master (to copy) for them a couple of years ago. R33Racer's car runs one as well as my own R32GTST, plus quite a few more. I made one for Giant's GTR (that they used at Tsukuba) that clears the larger (Performance Metalcraft) sump as well as a dry sump pump. I also designed one for Mercury Motorsport for the RB25 into S13 conversion and we do Stewart Wilkin's and MadDats SR20DE and SR20DET into 1600 and 1200 swaybar conversions. Last week I finished a new design to clear a Trust sump on an SR20DET in a 1600.

So PM me, of course for SAU guys the prices are at Group Buy level and turn around is 2 days from order.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks Gary. :banana:

The PM was sent on the 2/2/08, just waiting on reply. If you haven't received it please let me know.

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hmm yea. i don't know. i did a bit of reading but no flow charts. good example i found is below:

"Now observe the GT35R chart, HP holds steady and TQ falls alittle but not at the rate of the 50trim... GT35R chart was at 35 - 38 psi? Boost guage only goes upto 30...

When we were dynoing, the GT35R held HP/TQ at lower boost levels all the way to redline."

gt35r3538psixw1.jpg

link to the page with the dyno results:

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f169/gt35r...779/index3.html

i didn't read enough to see what engine it was running on though!?

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hmm yea. i don't know. i did a bit of reading but no flow charts. good example i found is below:

link to the page with the dyno results:

i didn't read enough to see what engine it was running on though!?

You cant compare psi of boost to the power produced over different engines with different capacities and different breathing modifications.

GT3582R_714568_1_comp_e.gif

Doing some math using the compressor map above the the turbo will be running out of its efficiency range after ~25 psi on the 3L, but that also depends on how well your engine breathes.

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how that chart makes sense to you is beyond me! but thanks for the info. i think a to4z might be too laggy for what i want tbh. i read in one of the dyno examples a peak power of 470rwkw... i'm going to check that again because that's the kind of power i'm aiming for.

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how that chart makes sense to you is beyond me! but thanks for the info. i think a to4z might be too laggy for what i want tbh. i read in one of the dyno examples a peak power of 470rwkw... i'm going to check that again because that's the kind of power i'm aiming for.

That would have had to be running some mega boost and top quality race fuel to achieve that power from a GT35R.

That's of course IF the dyno was accurate, which is probably unlikely :banana:.

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how that chart makes sense to you is beyond me!

Simple, the vertical scale is air pressure in bar, subtract 1 for boost and remember 1 bar = 14.7 psi

So 40 psi = 2.7 bar

Armed with that info, take a look at the graph and note that it doesn't go anywhere near 3.7 bar of air pressure (ie 2.7 bar of boost), in fact the efficiency island stop at 2.3 bar.

To run 40 psi, or anywhere near that, you are looking at using methanol or a dry ice intercooler, no petrol I know would tolerate such poor efficiency and no air to air intercooler I know of would cool it. Keep in mind that on average methanol would give you 10 to 15% more power than 100 ron petrol.

but thanks for the info. i think a to4z might be too laggy for what i want tbh. i read in one of the dyno examples a peak power of 470rwkw... i'm going to check that again because that's the kind of power i'm aiming for.

T04Z's with 0.8 turbine A/R's are far from laggy on a decent 3 litre, in fact many people would claim it a match made in heaven for the power/response compromise.

Cheers

Gary

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ahh, thanks for the info sydneykid, makes it a bit more clear now!

hmm i'm interested now because i know to4z means more power :blink: . what kind of compression would you suggest a to4z to run atand what boost would you guestimate would be safe!

thanks allot!

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Hey Guys,

I have read nearly all of this thread looking some detail on how to do the oil feed under the VCT solenoid and can only find out that you need to tap into the oil gallery. Does anyone have any photos? I have been running an RB30DET for nearly 2 years now and want to get the VCT running...Note that the oil gallery in bottom of head has been plugged...

Things I need to confirm are :

1. Where do you put the hole. ie vertical distance from solenoid + in from side or front of head...

2. What type / size of thread (1/8" BSP etc ) can you get in there?

3. Is it possible to do while the engine is in the car?? I suspect that you will need to remove the inlet manifold to get a drill in there.....

Once again I realise that there is heaps of info out there but i cant find any photos

cheers

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I have just purchased a tial 38mm wastegate to use in my setup.

I currently have a brand new XR6 Turbo (GT3540IW - Housing: .5 front 1.06 rear) this will be sitting on a high mount manifold I was origonally going to block the external gate pipe of on the manifold and just run internal but as I got an awesome deal on the external gate I will run that up now.

Should I block off the internal gate completely?

Is it possible to run the two in conjunction with each other - I have heard some whispers about this a while back.

If i am best to block the internal what's the best way to go it without butchering the turbo as I may want to sell it down the track. I was thinking just capping it off by not running the split dump back into the exhaust / sticking a plate over the flange.

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ahh, thanks for the info sydneykid, makes it a bit more clear now!

hmm i'm interested now because i know to4z means more power :( . what kind of compression would you suggest a to4z to run atand what boost would you guestimate would be safe!

thanks allot!

The guys that read my posts regularly know what's coming next............

Boost is irrelevant. Airflow makes horsepower, boost is simply a measure of the restrictions to that airflow. It is possible to make more power at lower boost levels, just remove the restrictions. A simplistic example, the T04Z is quite capable of 70 lbs/min of airlfow, enough for 800 bhp or so. It can do that sort of airflow from around 1.4 bar to 2.2 bar, but 2.2 bar will be outside the toptimum efficiency island. So the air will be hotter coming out of the turbo, hence you would need a much bigger intercooler, less ignition advance, richer A/F ratios, lower static compression ratio etc etc. That all leads to more lag, same horsepower. So why would you want to run 2.2 bar if it can make 800 bhp at 1.4 bar? The only reason you run more boost is because you haven't done a very good job in removing restrictions.

To answer your question, keeping the above in mind, I would run it at 9 to 1 compression ratio and around 1.5 bar.

Cheers

Gary

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ah ok! so obviously because of the higher compression the boost does not have to be as high to produce the same output power. which gives the turbo an easier life because it doesn't need to work as hard (and supporting mods)?

thanks for your input. i'm decided now. to4z with 9-1 comp and i'll be using VVT also. should be a very responsive and powerful engine.

cheers.

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Dan,

I have never ran two WGs but I would say definitely block the internal one if you can. If you run both WGs I think they may cause unstable boost control as they would open/close at different times. They may end up oscillating and causing unstable boost. An EBC wouldn't even be able to control them... If they were indetical WGs it may be a different story but external and internal gates have different fluid flow characteristics.

You also want to try and block off the internal one because in theory you would introduce lag by allowing the exhaust to leak or bypass the turbine all the time. One advantage of ext gates is that they dont leak when they are closed and by having a leaky internal gate (even if it is not activating) you would loose the advantage of the external gate. ie No leakage when closed...

I dont have any suggestions on how to block the internal gate though??? Can you get an ungated exhaust housing for that turbo??

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You can have issues with ext. gates just as you can with int. gates.

A mates ext gate had nothing but troubles as its simply would not hold boost. Obviously influenced by its setup but none the less.

My int gate has no issues either does a correctly setup XR6T pushing 400rwkw out of its int gate.

RBman runs a XR6T turbo on his RB30DET; it makes from memory 1bar by ~3900rpm. No issues with boost control there. :)

Set it up correctly with thought and you shouldn't have issues with either. Don't bother wasting money if you don't have too.

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Hey Guys,

I have read nearly all of this thread looking some detail on how to do the oil feed under the VCT solenoid and can only find out that you need to tap into the oil gallery. Does anyone have any photos? I have been running an RB30DET for nearly 2 years now and want to get the VCT running...Note that the oil gallery in bottom of head has been plugged...

Things I need to confirm are :

1. Where do you put the hole. ie vertical distance from solenoid + in from side or front of head...

2. What type / size of thread (1/8" BSP etc ) can you get in there?

3. Is it possible to do while the engine is in the car?? I suspect that you will need to remove the inlet manifold to get a drill in there.....

Once again I realise that there is heaps of info out there but i cant find any photos

cheers

drilling into an oil gallery is always going to introduce shavings, i would not do it with the head on the block for this reason.

TIP in the main area of the Forced Induction section - there is the Paper clip icon next to this threads link - click that icon and you will get a small page with EVERY pic that has been attached (not external links using the IMG tags though) to this thread - then go from there.

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