R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Guilt-Toy]

how did you go ?

Guilt-toy

Are you positive the entire front of the engine needs to come apart.

I was thinking that maybe just cam gears then the backing plate need to come off. Obviously you need to slacken the timing belt to renmove the cam gears but I can remove the bottom half of the timing belt cover without removing harmonic balancer. From memory there are two bolts that are a bitch to reach but i think i made some special spanners to get at them...I have had it off onec before without taking H balancer off...

cheers...

btw tried Anthony but he was out...will try again this afternoon...

[**RB2530**]

Spoke to Anthony about it..he has not done one with the head on before...I told him what the plan was and he said he couldn't see a problem with the process...Am gonna give it a go on the weekend..Oil gallery in question appears to be about 5mm in diameter so some 3mm pvc hose connected to vacuum cleaner should get all shavings out. Shavings will fall to bottom of gallery because it is vertical. Very very unlikely they will end anywhere else...Sydneykid also reckons they do heaps of that sort of stuff as well...Can be done successfully as long as you are careful...

I will take heaps of pics and post it when it is done...Just chasing around at the moment for fittings and a hose...Will use 1/8th bsp (same as thread in oil pressure sensor) in the head and use JIC fittings on hose...1/8th to JIC fittings are common...can get elbows as well...

[RB120WHY]

Definate peice of mind for buying a set of forged rods.

I noticed why my carrillo's dont fit my pistons. The little end thicknes is 1"

I got a spec sheet from Argo and their's are .857"

So I am going to sell my pistons and get another set custom made to suit the rods.

I just purchased the Spool rods and CP piston "kit". Everything i needed was there. Good bloke to chat with as well. Also got the JUN oil pump while i was at it. Saved me hunting around different places for bits and pieces.

[R34NRG]

I just purchased the Spool rods and CP piston "kit". Everything i needed was there. Good bloke to chat with as well. Also got the JUN oil pump while i was at it. Saved me hunting around different places for bits and pieces.

smart move buddy, i also got a set of spool rods and cp pistons as a kit, picked up a oil pump and oil collar to save me the hassle later on.

btw guys i was wondering what would u guys recommend as a throttle body size? is 80mm to big?

[dano4127]

I reckon 80 would be a good size - throttle bodies australia do awesome ones

[R32Abuser]

Well i've begun the plunge...Consequent to buying my RB30, i stripped it down the other day leaving only the sump and oil pump remaining. In doing so looking at the condition of the bores, pistons and the overall block. Im chasing a RB25DE head as the engine is going in a 32. Here are a few pictures i took of the block and the bores/pistons. Can anyone offer any observations/problems etc etc with anything they can see>?

Will acid washing and painting the block etc remove all this surface rust and gunk shit on the block?

Will the above also clean the pistons up a bit aswell? What does everyone recommend getting done in prepping the block?

So my plan is to do the following regarding block work:

new ACL piston rings

new ACL Bigend bearings

new ACL main bearings

New welsch plugs

JUN Crank collar

Bottom End gasket kit

Labor wise

deck the block (looking for approx 8.5 CR, but to achieve this i rekn ill get the head decked a little aswell)

hone the bores (looking at the cond of the bores do people recommend this just to clean them up? or how far should i go i.e. should i bore it out 20 thou (0.5mm)? any issues with this>?)

Acid wash (as above questions)

balance all the moving parts (pistons, crank etc)

linishing the crank

fitting the crank collar

Anythign anyone else can add to this? Im probs going to use the same/similar setup as Cubes GT3076R so aiming for roughly 260-270 @ 1bar with that turbo sort of region.

Obviously upgrading hte valve springs is advisable aswell.

What price would people recommend for the labor side of it....i priced the parts at a shade under $500 and the labor approximately at around 700 odd but am i under estimating things a little?

Thanks in advance

David

BTW apologies for photos, SAU wouldnt let me add attachments so idunno whats going on there.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0768.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0767.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0766.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0765.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0764.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0763.jpg

[shanef]

smart move buddy, i also got a set of spool rods and cp pistons as a kit, picked up a oil pump and oil collar to save me the hassle later on.

btw guys i was wondering what would u guys recommend as a throttle body size? is 80mm to big?

depends how much horsepower ur chasing. i went for a 90mm throttle body from BMI

[r_speedfreak_r]

Hey all. Just thought id share my excitment! I saw my engine running for the first time in over a year this arvo. Its a built 25/30 with a gt3540 on it. Still wearing in the engine on the dyno but we did a lil mini power run. Atm its rev limited to 4,000rpm and has the same effect of hitting rev limiter once the vehicle hits 7psi. I got 197rwhp with the vehicle on boost at 2,500k. I have to take it for a drive 2morrow wearing it in and using up the old fuel so we can tune it properly. With a 0.9bar gate i'll have to be very careful not to hit boost limiter.

[MicK51]

So I've built a RB30DET to go into my 32, I'm going to tune it to 300rwkw. I've got a 33 box and was going to just weld a 33 yoke onto my 32 tail shaft so it would all bolt up nicely.

However when my mechanic took the shaft up to the tail shaft shop to be modified they said that a two piece shaft wouldn't last 5mins and that i need to buy a custom one piece shaft for $800!

Is anyone with similar power and the standard shaft having issues?

Is $800 a reasonable price for a custom one piece tail shaft to fit a 32 with a 33 box?

Edited February 9, 2008 by MicK51

[Adriano]

2 piece shfts last fine in 700hp gtr's etc...

[bubba]

I just had a custom 2-piece made, I told them what the application was and he built it to suit.

Plenty of info on the box conversion in the Drivetrain area..

[Cubes]

When I had mine done the bloke asked what I was doing with the car.

The diff yoke where it joins the tail shaft is 'apparently' a problem after abuse at the drags with slicks if the car is making decent power. Apparently its held in by a hard rubber which slips and causes the yokes to become unaligned and obviously provide no drive.

Regardless he said it would cost another hundred or so to get that made as a single piece from the center bearing to the yoke. He recommended to stick with a 2 piece but just fix its slight flaws.

[**RB2530**]

Chris,

Thankx...I will check out the attachments....yeah I take your point about drilling and tapping when the head is off the motor...ideally this would have been done but the guy who built the motor for me 'assured me' that it did not need to be done to get the VCT to work...I now know otherwise...As far as shavings are concerned a couple of tricks that I know are as follows:

1. Clean out the gallery with a good degreaser and dry it out so that there is no oil in the gallery....

2.Drill a very small pilot hole first. I mean small such as 1mm dia. Cover the drill bit in heavy grease so that any shavings are caught in the grease...then place compressed air on the gallery and give it a positive pressure...not much...you dont want to blow out any seals....just enough to produce decent airflow out of the hole....Then when you drill main hole use a very sharp drill bit on slow speed so the shavings are large. Any shavings get blown outwards by the compressed air through the flute of the drill bit....same goes for when you tap the thread....keep the air pressure up so the air flow blows swarf outwards...

3 Once the drilling tapping has been done connect some small diameter hose (PVC tubing) to a vacuum cleaner and stick it in the hole and suck out any small shavings that may have gotten past the air rushing out of the hole when drilling....This oil gallery must be vertical as it picks up from the block below so any shavings would just fall down and just sit on top of the welded or plugged section at the bottom of the gallery anyway...

In my mind the if the above process is used, the overall risk of damaging the head is lower when compared to risk of damage (and cost) of removing replacing cyl head.

Anyone else reading this post please feel free to add comments or shoot me down in flames...Am always open to criticism...There also may be a good reason not do it based on something I have missed...

cheers

Paul

Well its done!! All is good and so far no damaged bearings from shavings...Not expecting any either....

I put compressed air onto the port that the VVT solenoid valve screws into. Once I had drill the 1st small a spurt of oil shot out....Bingo...at least I knew I had hit the gallery. The oil that came out was very dark probably from being stagnent. ie when you plug the gallery it becomes a dead spot..Air then came out of the small hole but by the sounds of most of the air was exiting somewhere else in the head. Anyway I had 15cfm air flow and at least some was coming out the hole drilled in the gallery...Enough to blow grease off the drill bit and tap.

The vacuum cleaner idea worked very very well. After drilling and tapping the hole I then filled the gallery with WD40 using the fine tube that comes with the can...I then used some of the very fine plastic tubing that they use on small MIG welders for shielding gas on a decent vacuum cleaner (you use a short length of bicycle inner tube and some cable ties to connect the thin tube to the vacuum cleaner. Use some 3mm vacuum hose as an intermediate connection.) After filling the gallery with WD40 I was able to get the MIG gas tubing into the drilled hole and slide it down to the bottom of the gallery. When the VC is on you can see the WD40 and shavings travel up through the small tube...I did this about 5-6 times. A couple of times 1 or 2 shavings blocked the small tube...Anyway after doing this I was 99.999% confident there were no shavings left in gallery...

Tapping the thread is not for beginners....very easy to stuff up....It would be very easy to bottom out the tap and tear the thread out...Then it would be head off engine and off to the cyl head repair gurus...I used 1/8th" bsp nipple with heaps of loctite 567...I then put a 90 screw on elbow. I had to modify so the thread sockets were shorter because it was fouling on the cam pulley backing plate...Now it just fits..If anything the cam pulley backing plate keeps the elbow fitting captive into the head drilled/tapped hole...So if it fails it will leak slowly as opposed to pissing oil everywhere draining the sump in a 30seonds or so...

The roads were wet all weekend so I couldn't do much road testing...The first thing I noticed though is that the idle is much smoother and stable..Before idle rpm would fluctuate and now it is very stable...I had check and cleaned the idle control valve without much luck...I know think that this idle behaviour may have been due to the fact the VVT mechanism was not getting any oil and maybe jamming or moving around...Over time I wouild say that the stagnent oil would gum up and the cam advance may jump around??? Not sure on this but based on my experience I would strongly recommend removing the VVT pulley and running a standard pulley (if you can find one that fits the VVT inlet cam) if the oil gallery is not connected to the oil supply.

When driving the car even lightly it seems a lot smoother...Will do some G-tech runs when it stops raining....

[dano4127]

good writeup! well done, I would be interested to know if once tuned you can extract more/better power out of it

[JVDSKYRINE]

I just purchased the Spool rods and CP piston "kit". Everything i needed was there. Good bloke to chat with as well. Also got the JUN oil pump while i was at it. Saved me hunting around different places for bits and pieces.

hey who did you get this stuff off if you don't mind me asking?? I live in Canada and getting my hands on these kind of parts is a little harder.....thanks in advance and sorry if this is a little off topic but i have the spool rods need to find the pistons with 9:1 compression

[dmac_25]

Bitch of a job, not all blocks will accept the threads and you can't tell until you start machining. S1, S2, Commodore, Skyline and turbo blocks, makes no difference, about 1 in 10 will take squirters. So we stopped fitting them about 60 RB30's ago, we machine oil squirters into the conrods, works perfectly. For heavy duty applications (over 750 bhp) we ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts.

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary,

Could you explain more on the squirters in the conrods? and is worth it Ceramic coating and how much will it set you back?

Cheers David

[GTRgeoff]

hey who did you get this stuff off if you don't mind me asking?? I live in Canada and getting my hands on these kind of parts is a little harder.....thanks in advance and sorry if this is a little off topic but i have the spool rods need to find the pistons with 9:1 compression

Get them from Spoolup. He posted 2 pages back http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ml&st=6120#

[Painkiller]

what CP pistons (part no.) gives a 8.5 C/R with the standard rod for an rb30det with r32 rb25 head ... what would you guys use

[Maddo]

its most likely been asked before but but i dont really want to be looking back 100's of pages lol anyway where do you get the crank collar modification from and what does it do exactly?

[dano4127]

proengines

im not the best person to explain what they do though... search "crank collar" and you will come up with tons of results