R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Dale FZ1]

Try one if you have access to it, otherwise make adjustments to the stock bracket with an angle grinder. Cutting disc and a sanding disc worked well for me

[Craved]

Has anyone used R31 Skyline power steering bracket Insted of a modified one?

definately appears that the r31 bracket is identical to the modified r32+ ones

[MBS206]

NGK BCP6ES-11 or something like that (could be BCP6CES..) then gap back down to 0.8

Why do you gap down to 0.8mm? What sort of boost are you running?

When I was smashing out to 19PSi, and hitting 11:1 AFR, gapped at 1.1mm, I didn't have a single issue of mis fire. If you have decent coil packs, keep the gap out large at 1.1mm to get a better flame front. Will give you a better burn.

Obviously if you're running huge boost (2 Bar Superstar) you may need to gap down, but from what I've seen, even 1.1mm with 25PSi and splitfires = perfectly fine...

Just wondering if you're gapping down to 0.8 from force of habit from doing it with shit coil packs on the RB25?

[bubba]

definately appears that the r31 bracket is identical to the modified r32+ ones

Hmm, odd. I would have thought there'd be more difference in the SOHC to DOHC but it must start spreading higher than where the bracket bolts.

I have always gapped at 0.8 and my mechanic always tells me to gap at 0.8, so I do and will continue to do so until he tells me otherwise

P.S. I never had a 25.. I have OEM RB20 coils and a brand new coil harness.

Edited January 7, 2009 by bubba

[...Joshwa]

Hi all,

Part way through the conversion and just had a couple of questions. .

1. Ive taken the balancer off the RB30 block but how the hell do i get the gear (behind the balancer) off??

2. Im trying to track down a RB25 balancer and RB25DET oil pump, what are some decent Jap wreckers to give a call??

3. In the guide it says to block the rear oil supply to the head and to fit 1.5mm restrictors at the front. On a photo of the head could somebody explain which ones to block and which ones to fit the restrictors too.

4. My motor will be non turbo for the next 6 months or so, looking to set the limiter to around the 7500 mark. Is it necessary to fit a full length oil pump drive collar to prevent oil pump failure?

That is all,

Thanks in advance.

Josh

[[200]]

Can someone tell me the sizes of the welsh plugs in the rb30 block? i know cubes posted them somewhere but i cannot find them anywhere...

[Gts-t]

NGK BCP6ES-11 or something like that (could be BCP6CES..) then gap back down to 0.8

or get -8 and they come at gapped at .8

[Craved]

actually, no suffix on the model of the plugs is 0.8

cant recall teh welsh plug sizes of hand [200] - will try and remember to check mine tomorrow

[bubba]

or get -8 and they come at gapped at .8

Can you actually get -8's?

Regardless, you should still check the gap.

If I wanted to run them at 1.1mm gap I wouldn't just throw the -11's straight in without regapping..

[...Joshwa]

Hi all,

Another query. . Where the new spot for the tensioner/idler is, the threaded hole on my block does not have a flat surface surrounding it, and I imagine it needs to to seat the tensioner/idler properly???

[bluegts]

maybe use the lower left tensioner point, and then drill and tap a new tensioner at the top on the right instead of the left?

[Godzilla33]

Hi all,

Another query. . Where the new spot for the tensioner/idler is, the threaded hole on my block does not have a flat surface surrounding it, and I imagine it needs to to seat the tensioner/idler properly???

I had the same issue with my block, I didnt even realise until I had it bored etc.... Was an easy fix with a bit of steel & some work with the grinder. because the thread is still already tapped, all you need is a piece of steel to make a washer/backing plate.

measure how thick from the base of the stud to the height of the machined part of the block where the original tensioner sits (6mm rings a bell), drill a hole in the bit of steel, then shape the steel to fit flat & flush (bit of scalloping required to go over the oil gallery) Make sure you use a bit big enough to fit the flat of the tensioner onto, from memory Imy piece filled the whole area from the flat machined part right accross to where the cover sits.

grind it into shape until it sits spot on with the tensioner holding it in place, when thats all good I used liquid metal behind the new bit of plate & did up the tensioner to hold in place until cured. worked a treat for me, just a bit of messing around.

Hope this helps, havnt got any pics sorry.

[...Joshwa]

awsome. thanks for that mate ill give it a shot. .

Josh

[Redliner007]

hey guys,

just a quick update. Made a great start to the year with my rb30 build. Managed to get a couple of mates giving me a hand and had the motor fully built and in the car running although it wasnt all smooth sailing. Had huge issues with the cambelt even with relocating the tensioners i am now using a mitsubishi belt.

Just a few questions still remaining which i hope you guys will help me out on...

1. I am using the rb25det big box in my r31 and have issues with my cross member, the r33 crossmember is too small and the r32 crossmember fits bit isnt tall enough for the box to rest on...(if that makes any sense)

2. When i started the car up for the first time excessive noise was coming from the head, im guessing its the lifters well at least hoping anyway as it was making a slight grinding noise, is this normal?

3. Power steering bracket, which is the suitable bracket to use is there one that bolts straight on or do you have to customise it to fit?

cheers for the help

Edited January 26, 2009 by Redliner007

[Al]

1. sorry can't help there.

2. All grinding noises are not at all usual and should be looked at as a priority. Should start and run like a normal rb25 or rb30. Determine exactly where the noise is coming from and determine what is causing it.

3. I just used all my rb25 brackets to fit the p/s, a/c and alt.

[shanef]

1. Same as Al

2. Same as Al. Also drop the oil into a clean container and sift it for bits of metal. If theres metal in the oil, expect it to spin a bearing very soon.

3. Just cut off the top lug on the alternator bracket u have and use it

[bubba]

1. sorry can't help there.

2. All grinding noises are not at all usual and should be looked at as a priority. Should start and run like a normal rb25 or rb30. Determine exactly where the noise is coming from and determine what is causing it.

3. I just used all my rb25 brackets to fit the p/s, a/c and alt.

Are you serious you didn't modify the power steering bracket at all?

1. Same as Al

2. Same as Al. Also drop the oil into a clean container and sift it for bits of metal. If theres metal in the oil, expect it to spin a bearing very soon.

3. Just cut off the top lug on the alternator bracket u have and use it

I assume you mean power steering bracket..

Like shanef said, just cut the top lug/boss back flush with the rest and bob's your uncle/aunty.

[Redliner007]

thanks guys will get onto it tomorrow.

also another quick question which i just remembered... any/all of you that are using the n1 oil pump what is generally your oil pressure readings?

When i first started up the motor it was maxed out at 8 and came down to about 6-7 (3/4) up. I'm not using a crank collar as suggested due to time and difficulty during assembly.

[Al]

Are you serious you didn't modify the power steering bracket at all?

I didn't build the engine, but i do not recall my mechanic whining about modifying the p/s bracket, he let me know of everything else

Below are a few "progress pics" from the build, let me know if any mods have been done to the bracket:

[bubba]

Has to have been modified, you see the top bolt of the bracket (right near the head), on RB20/25/26 the top bolt bolts to the head (hence the deeper boss). With the 30 all 3 bolts bolt to the block.

I could maybe see how an RB30E bracket would fit (obviously), but how it positions the pump compared to the twincam engines, I don't know. Never thought to try an RB30E power steering bracket.. I just hacked into mine with the wizzah disk