R33 Rb30 Conversion

[G-R31]

R31 auto cross member bolts up to r33 box (using r33 rubber mount). Obviously if your r31 was auto at one stage, like mine, the cross - member will bolt straight up to all 4 x studs. If it was originally manual you may have to mod it. Only bolts to 2 of the studs from memory?

g.

[bubba]

thanks guys will get onto it tomorrow.

also another quick question which i just remembered... any/all of you that are using the n1 oil pump what is generally your oil pressure readings?

When i first started up the motor it was maxed out at 8 and came down to about 6-7 (3/4) up. I'm not using a crank collar as suggested due to time and difficulty during assembly.

Readings with my N1 pump (no restrictors) are 100psi cold at idle. Warm is 10-20psi at idle (depending on oil temp) and ~20psi for every 1000rpm, so ~40psi @ 2000rpm, ~60psi @ 3000rpm, ~80psi @ 4000rpm and anything over that is pushing 100psi.

[Deathwish]

Hi guys n gals. been reading through almost all of the 246 pages of this thread and am just seeking some advice. im running a standard RB25 GTS-t engine (except for a race head gasket). with

740cc injectors

Greddy inlet plenum

Greddy 40mm piping top mount manifold with a T04 twin port flange

Turbonetics A65R turbo (good for around 700bhp)

HKS 4" straight through drag exhaust with a 5" back box

Q45 100mm throttle body

AEM ecu

Greddy BOV

13 row intercooler

race radiator

Os Gieken triple plate drag clutch

individual coil packs

probably more so will update when i check the spec list again.

what i would like is any advice on which RB30 block would be best for me. i like to use the power ofet and at full rev's so would a standard block suffice or do i need to go down the forged route, if so would the stock crank do or do i need to get it lightened/treated.

also do they handle NOs well or is there no need with the amount of torque they produce.

My Current engine doesnt start boosting properly until around 4000-4500rpm and is hitting the limiter at 7250rpm or so. i've read that the RB30 blocks dont like high revs but what would they handle on a regular basis.

ALL info much appreciated.

Regards, Thwish

[Al]

All depends on how deep your pockets are mate.

If you have the money i would definitely go the forge route with the std crank and all other performance parts (arp bolts, acl bearing, etc, etc).

My engine has been tuned to 8000rpm but i keep the limiter at 7200rpm, just like the factory rb25det.

You can put NOS on all engines, just depends how good your tuner is.

[xsv_32]

Yup i agree, if you can afford it go forged. Use Arp bolts on your rods and decent bearings for the crank to be on the safe side. Factory cranks are pretty bulletproof and you could even get away with possibly shot peening the factory rods. With a strong bottom end you can keep upgrading the bolt on bits till it scares the s**t out of you daily lol.

I dont think nos is necessary with the increase in torque but again if its in your budget, why not try it out?

Make sure to post up on your progress as im in the middle of the same process!

[[200]]

Would anyone happen to know the thread size where the oil filter screws onto the block?

[shanef]

Would anyone happen to know the thread size where the oil filter screws onto the block?

youd be after this one - TD1014B - http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=354

[[200]]

Yep, just saw the info on the earls website too

I should actually look before asking... hehe

[Redliner007]

hey guys hows it going? Hope things are all coming along nicely, been a while since i been on thought i drop a quick comment and update on my 30 build.

The gearbox crossmember is now in, have also made up a plate for the power steering pump motor is complete took the car for a drive down the road runs fairly rough, as soon as boost came on pretty sure it started leaning out hard!!! I was planning on running the motor in with all standard rb20det gear including turbo and ecu but dont think having the rb20det ecu is a good idea. I have gotten some bigger injectors, a fuel pressure reg and fuel pump.

The fuel pump is installed but not the other gear. Looking to either chip the ecu for the run in process or to go aftermarket unsure as funds are extremely low, but what do you guys think comparing a greddy e-manage ultimate to the new link g4 ecu??

thanks for the imput guys cant wait to finally start rolling again been too long!

p.s. does anyone know who does decently priced ecu's or may have second hand aftermarket ecu's avail. Preferably to be in N.Z but worst comes to worst will get something from aus.

[bubba]

Nistune will be your cheapest option.. I'm running a remap (pre-Nistune days) with a z32 afm and 550cc injectors, handles it fine. Will be going remap again with the new turbo, until I max out the z32 afm.

[snakey1989]

Hey guys, yeah I'm another blerrie newby.

Umm, I've spent gawd knows how long glazing throught the sh$%loads of pages here and found it to be the best discussion on rb conversions out...

Good form people.

I know I drive a Bommodore, (I'm sory), but I have just started doin the bastard up.

Now I'm an apprentice 'Chanic working for my father,so I got a reasonably good idea what I'm doin however, I'm new to Jap stuff, all I know is Holden v8's to be honest.

Now I'm looking to pull around 500hp atw, (370 kw) one day, (a long way off I know), but as I'm just starting where should I start?

Initially I'm gonna acid dip the block, balance the stock internals.

I wanna chuck a 26 head on it, with the VCT, that doesn't worry me in the slightest.

Now I need to drill and tap the rb30 block to accept the larger head studs?

What is the best idea for inlet / exhaust / cheap starter option?

I mean eventually I'll throw some good Tomei gear down the 30 block, port and polish the 26 head and go to about 25 pound on the boost guage... What should I be looking to do to get that far?

Money are an issue of course, so any price guides would be much appreciated.

As for time, well I have got a second RB30 al;ready in the car, so I have THIS one on a stand for the rebuild...

I got no idea on computer gear, dynoing and whatnot, any advice?

And before I go, (Cos I know you'd be sick of a prick like me),

I'm gonna convert the VLK to manual, the cursed 5sp, I'm guessing other than a decent clutch and light flywheel, it should be able to cope with a gentle right foot until I can drop a r34 manual in it???

Sorry for being a long winded bastard, but I wanna do it right!

Cheers

[TiTAN]

RB26 doesnt have VCT

yes you will need to drill and tap the block for the larger head studs.

keep the standard RB26 inlet/throttles they work fine, exhaust depends on what turbo setup you are using.

tomei dont make RB30 pistons/rods.

[snakey1989]

RB26 doesnt have VCT

yes you will need to drill and tap the block for the larger head studs.

keep the standard RB26 inlet/throttles they work fine, exhaust depends on what turbo setup you are using.

tomei dont make RB30 pistons/rods.

Aha... I thought that Tomei did... Just shows how little I know.

Which ones had VCT??? I was told that in the whole RB range it was only the 30 and 25 NEO that didn't?

Oh well.

Nonetheless, cheers.

[JCaSs1001]

im looking at a 26/30 upgrade for my r33 gtst.... well gettin a rb30e block tomoz... are there any problems i will run into with this head and my pfc?? any TPS or CAS problems??

i assume the easiest way to do fuel is to get the 26rail & injectors to suit, any problems with running them on my 33gtst PFC???

[BUKLUP]

I just did a series one rb25 head swap on my new forged rb30 engine with mls head gasket and cannot find out wtf is wrong with it.

Is there anything needed to be done on the head or block such as block up any oil galleries?

Because i get coolant mixing with oil and theres a big leak somewhere when i put the radiator pressure tester you can hear its making a squishing sound so it a big hole some where.

[TiTAN]

read the PDF on the first post of this thread it will tell you exactly what was done wrong.

[BUKLUP]

thanks TITAN

i put a brass plug in and re assembling now lets hope it does the job!

[judd33]

just a quick question!i am building a rb25/30 in a r33!looking to get a big turbo on the build!will a gt35/30 turbo be too big on a low mount manifold or do i need high mount,prefer to get low mount with big turbo,looking for about 450-500hp at the wheels!suggestions on turbos please guys!

[shanef]

just a quick question!i am building a rb25/30 in a r33!looking to get a big turbo on the build!will a gt35/30 turbo be too big on a low mount manifold or do i need high mount,prefer to get low mount with big turbo,looking for about 450-500hp at the wheels!suggestions on turbos please guys!

a garrett GT35R 0.82 exhaust housing is the perfect choice for that hp target. you 'could' mount it on a low mount manifold, however you are better off using a properly made hi-mount manifold like a 6boost to gain the optimium performance. Also hi-mounts are 10x easier to work on

[joe blo]

when you put the rb25det head on the rb30 bottomend how the holes arent the same shape at the end where you weld up the vct hole. do i just put the rb30 headgasket on it how it is even though the holes arent the same shape?