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Not sure if this has been mentioned...

I recently got my RB25/30 running (last Tuesday). I did the mod for the VCT, however, all I did was grub screw the hole in the head, with no other modification. My VCT works perfect. No oil control/lack of oil issues or anything (this was mod was done on the advice of my engine builder).

Discuss.

u mean to say u didnt do either internal(from buckets) or external oil feed to the VCT solenoid and it still works??

u mean to say u didnt do either internal(from buckets) or external oil feed to the VCT solenoid and it still works??

Correct. All I did was the grub screw mod to stop oil/water mixing. Bolted the head on (of course all of this on the advice of engine builder) and it works fine. This has been done on my mates twin came RB30 and his also works.

quick question guys, got a 6boost high mount mani and a gt35r turbo,did anyone have to re -postion any of the front or rear housings on the turbo to position the turbo correctly on the mani.my mani is a t3 flange,fits perfetly,so no problem there!

yes you will need to losen the front housing so you can align it properly with where you want it.

make sure the oil feed into the turbo is facing straight up

thought so cheers!i wont be doing it,just a stupid ? really, but there is no stupid ? on here!

ive just gotten hold of a NA rb30 bottom end and gonna to the usual build, ie rods pistons and so on, just wonder a few things...

1. is there any difference with the rb30 NA and Turbo Crank

2. can the rb30 crank be fitted to a rb25 block to get around drilling and taping holes in the rb30 block, read somewhere that this was possible and if not what is the best way about doing the tensioner for the belt if the pre tapped hole is not there.

3. is there any other differences between the turbo and NA rb30 block itself.

Using a 25 head, cheers for any help :)

Edited by fomby639
ive just gotten hold of a NA rb30 bottom end and gonna to the usual build, ie rods pistons and so on, just wonder a few things...

1. is there any difference with the rb30 NA and Turbo Crank

no

2. can the rb30 crank be fitted to a rb25 block to get around drilling and taping holes in the rb30 block, read somewhere that this was possible and if not what is the best way about doing the tensioner for the belt if the pre tapped hole is not there.

no

3. is there any other differences between the turbo and NA rb30 block itself.

no, but there is a small difference between S1 and S2 blocks in relation to the flat area where the tensioner goes, the S2 block is a little easier.

Using a 25 head, cheers for any help ;)

Cheers

Gary

Some of the S1 blocks don't have the turbo oil feed drilled all the way through, check it with a piece of wire and make sure it goes all the way through the block and into the gallery behind the oil filter housing. You can drill it, just need a long series drill to do it. I've only seen one block like that but it's worth a check.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys! Sorry its been a while have been so caught up with work and studies haven't really had much time to spend online or on cars sadly :banana: But i have managed to FINALLY get mine trouble free and tuned. How is all the rb30's out there? Hope all is going well for the festive season.

On a quick note has anyone has issues with the speedometer drive/cable on the bigger rb25det gearbox? For some reason my gearbox keeps shredding the plastic part at the end of the drive, It was all fine until i took it out onto the open road sitting around 100km this is the second time its happened and was wondering if someone knew a way around it?

do most of you guys get more area welded onto the head on the front water gallery i think it is how its different from the rb30 block? i got my head rebuilt but didnt know about getting that bit modded to get more gasket sealing area there. will it be ok to leave it how it is?

its a rb25det head from a r33

Edited by joe blo
How closely are you following the writeups for the speedo sender? are you cutting a new groove and rotating the sender 180'?

too be honest i didnt know there was one lol. Um i was thinking maybe it was because of the bigger motor it was doing this? I have yet to pull the speedo drive out a second time to confirm that it has chewed the plast gears, cutting groove and rotating???? I'm not aware of this

too be honest i didnt know there was one lol. Um i was thinking maybe it was because of the bigger motor it was doing this? I have yet to pull the speedo drive out a second time to confirm that it has chewed the plast gears, cutting groove and rotating???? I'm not aware of this

Read the writeups!!

You basically need to rotate the sender 180 deg otherwise the gear mesh is too great and it chews the gears out.

  • 3 weeks later...

hey people, great thread this one has been a great read!!!!

i am just about to do the following

put series 2 stock rb30 bottom end, with new bearings and piston rings

onto a stock series rb25 head.

how much should i be charged for this in labour? i have benn qouted $2500 nearly $3000

bear in mind this is to keep vvt also

any help and advice on whethter this labour price is good please let me know, i think its way too much

Guys I was just doing some casual reading AGAIN on the RB30DOHC guide, and in relation tot heR33 RB25 head, it claims you will need to:

"The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain."

What is the external head oil return it speaks of? Is this the standard one at the front of the head that needs to be T'd in?

I'm on my second RB30DOHC motor, and never had this fitted... What issues are normally seen if this isn't plumbed in?

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