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R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

It does if you put an Rb20/25/30 spiggot bearing in.

Darrens (Bl4ck32) RB30 had a flywheel attached as it was from a manual car.

But to his suprise it still had the automatic spiggot in there.

The Auto spiggot hangs 1/4 out of the crank. The Manual spiggot sits all the way in and you can only just get a finger in there.

The Auto you can almost fit a thumb in it.

I posted pics a while back.

Unsure if it was in another thread or in the RB30 thread.

I've been getting a little bit of reversion occuring with the stock rb20t turbo and std. N/A cam specs.

I've advanced the timing quite a bit 25degree's to help smooth it out.

Now I can only ever so slightly feel the bog down only under certian conditions.

Its going on the dyno Friday for a tune so it will be interesting to see if it gets rid of that afm cut I'm getting at around 10psi. :P

AFR's are fairly rich dipping in to the 10's and it only gets richer as boost increases.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I have a question.

I'm worried about running the engine in with all the aftermarket parts i'll be using with a power fc on a standard rb25 tune.

Would it be better to run the engine in with the standard cams and injectors and install the pon cams and 740cc injectors later. (valve springs will be already installed.

Hi Alf, I would stick it all in, that's what I do. It is so much easier to do on the engine stand than once it is installed in the car. I simply take 700 cc vs 370 cc out of fhe master fuel correction on the PFC Commander (about 45%). Remember to do that every time you turn off the engine as the Power FC does not retain master corrections.

Hope that helps:cheers:

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted
Hi Alf,  I would stick it all in, that's what I do.  It is so much easier to do on the engine stand than once it is installed in the car.  I simply take 700 cc vs 370 cc out of fhe master fuel correction on the PFC Commander (about 45%).  Remember to do that every time you turn off the engine as the Power FC does not retain master corrections.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Can you not do this in a more permanent way?.. seems odd to do it every time you turn the car off??

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
Can you not do this in a more permanent way?.. seems odd to do it every time you turn the car off??

I dont believe there is anyway in the PFC Hand Controller to do this. We looked for ages for this option and the only way i could take a certain % of fuel out of the system (50 psi base pressure in fuel) was to go into the INJ map and take out 15 press's on EVERY load point which took me about 2 hours :D

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I dont believe there is anyway in the PFC Hand Controller to do this.  We looked for ages for this option and the only way i could take a certain % of fuel out of the system (50 psi base pressure in fuel) was to go into the INJ map and take out 15 press's on EVERY load point which took me about 2 hours  ;)

It only takes a few seconds to change the master correction, until I get to do a proper tune, it is the best way I have found. Going though the maps and changing 400 load points by the same amount is a waste of time as you have to tune it properly soon anyway. Guessing a single % for the whole rpm and load range is not a good idea. If you are going to carry out minor upgrades often, then you should look at a Datalogit, it's very simple then.

:)

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted
It only takes a few seconds to change the master correction, until I get to do a proper tune, it is the best way I have found.  Going though the maps and changing 400 load points by the same amount is a waste of time as you have to tune it properly soon anyway.  Guessing a single % for the whole rpm and load range is not a good idea.   If you are going to carry out minor upgrades often, then you should look at a Datalogit, it's very simple then.

:)

Thanks for the advice. I should be able to get the car running with the master correction on the hand controller and then get it down to a dyno with a datalogit for the actual tune ;)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
You don't need to do the tensioner like this also. I think 2 tensioners in the stock position would be fine.

I like the second (high) tensioner mount, same as this. Personally I think the tensioners get too close together when they are both mounted low and the teeth face each other. Any slacknes in the belt or a bit of whip and the opposing teeth will rip each other to pieces as they are travelling in opposite directions at big RPM.

:)

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted
I like the second (high) tensioner mount, same as this.  Personally I think the tensioners get too close together when they are both mounted low and the teeth face each other. Any slacknes in the belt or a bit of whip and the opposing teeth will rip each other to pieces as they are travelling in opposite directions at big RPM.  

:)

I see your point..

I was thinking of the OS RB30, they have the low mounted tensioners, but then again, they have a different sized belt also. ;)

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