Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having picked up a red button from Arthur Daley at the Derby meet on Sunday I spent an enjoyable bank holiday Monday with the car in bits. The end result being a cool (well, I think so) start button in the car and a bit of a guide to fitting it. Total cost around £22.

You can download the zipped PDF (1.18Mb) HERE .

Note - It's how I did it and it's not to say it's the best/easiest/safest way to do it. It may help you if you want to have a go but don't blame me if it all goes tits up.

Hope it's useful.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15421-engine-start-button/
Share on other sites

Looks neat! Though I'm wondering if curious passengers are going to press it if you forget to tell them what it does! (and if your bastard mates will do it anyway just because they know what it does :))

Edit: Trying to start it with the engine already on reminds me of the time I was driving the company car to pick up the mail (XF Falcon panel van). I tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. Then every other time I went to start it I just got the horrible grinding starter motor gear noise. I was about to quit and go ring up my work, when I opened my door and heard that the engine was running!

Hehehe interesting story from last weekend at the track. 400hp Nissan Silvia from the team i was helping out on had a "Start button" failure that caused the car to refuse to start after a spin. This was a $70 switch made by Pivot. It was also made of cheap chrome painted plastic. R I C E.

Anyway, we replaced it with a $2 switch from jaycar and all was good.

Red17

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unless things that you want to do include reference to time. Simple Boolean logic is only good for digital inputs or analogues that have been thresholded into digitals. But unless you also have a timer function available (which would more ideally be located inside the program, rather than being forced to implement a timer outside the ECU and bring it in as a seperate digital for every time delay you want to implement), then you can't do some of the things that you might want to do. My PLC ladder logics are obviously littered with program blocks, because that's easier than building it all in ladder gates, but the most frequent of those program blocks is a simple timer, because you actually can't otherwise do that in ladder at all.
    • Log voltage. I'm suspecting the alternator. Or even maybe a bad earth somewhere. ie, seeing as it is rev dependent, I am thinking it is alternator dependent.
    • Yeah so N1 and any other larger than factory pump are pretty famous for pumping the sump dry...obviously we don't often get to spend 20 or 30 seconds at high rpm/full noise on the road so I'd still be suspicious that is what is happening here.
    • You are also getting pressure dips on gear shifts. They're just not dipping as far, but they're dipping quite below the amount of oil pressure you should be seeing, for how much RPM drops.   It quite little could be the oil pressure relief valve is starting to stick open a little/is slow to close.
    • Can you log battery voltage, and TPS, and put all four of those into a single image (even as split graphs)?   The oil pressure drops aren't following RPM as such. I'm intrigued if you may have a ground loop between different sensors. With the engine not running, log your sensors and for example cycle the throttle pedal. See if any sensor values flutter or move about. This won't be a perfect test either as the ECU won't be cycling all of its actuators like it would be while running. What EMTRON do you have? Do you have a link to the wiring guide for that ECU?
×
×
  • Create New...