Jump to content
SAU Community

Sold


teamplasma
 Share

Recommended Posts

Item: 1993 nissan r33 skyline 4 door 5 speed manual gtst

sold

Location: Brisbane Northside

Website: none

Item Condition: great, just finished build up

Reason for Selling: i only get to drive it once a week due to work and my daily drive has had it

Price and Payment Conditions: $21000 ono with safety cert(to be obtained once deposit taken)

or $18500 minus stereo and 5inch tacko

Extra Info: one of a kind, 4 doors are rare enough let alone a manual with this style of mods

Pictures: yes

Contact Details: mob 0439719822 or email [email protected]

post-9561-1170230263.jpgpost-9561-1170230242.jpgpost-9561-1170230224.jpgpost-9561-1170230112.jpgpost-9561-1170230146.jpgpost-11192-1129622603.jpgpost-9561-1170230286.jpgpost-9561-1170230308.jpg[attachmen

=80158:attachment]post-9561-1170230359.jpg

General -

1993 4 door gtst

5 speed manual

85xxxkm

paging alarm system

major service will be done apon sale

only arround 10xxxkm done in aust as it's been off th road for mods

balance of rego

The body -

custom purple with blue pearl

custom side skirts and rear bar

aftermarket front bar obtained through custom carbon

custom front guards

series 2 rear tail lights

aftermarket front grill

custom bonnet (all metal not defectable like carbon)

carbon fibre look mirrors

custom graphics

The interior -

combination of white leather/vinyl/and paint

leather roof lining, dash, door trims, centre console, steering wheel (issotta) gear and handbrake boots, rear parsel shelf and a few other bits

white vinyl boot install, sub box false floor/walls ect

white/blue paint dash cluster and a few other bits

The sound system

Clarion touch screen head unit (flod out tv, cd, ect)

luxun dvd player also plays mp3/mp4/cd

alpine type r 6.5 inch front splits

alpine 6.5 inch type s rear splits

3 12 inch alpine type s subs

alpine 4 channel v12 amp (bridged running front splits)

alpine mono block 800w rms (running 3 12's supplying approx 1350wrms)

fusion capacitor

Mechanical mods -

hybrid front mount intercooler

apexi avcr

xforce stainless exhust including front pipe

heavy duty clutch

jjr oil cooler and oil filter relocator

hks pod filter

dredd racing cold air box (encolosed pod filter making it legal in qld)

autometre colbot gauges 5 inch shift light tach, oil temp oil pressure, water temp air/fuel ratio (these 4 mounted in dash above glovebox)

Wheels tyres -

18inch speedy lite 7's i think

6mm spacer plate on front

235's in great condition all round

may consider trades with cash my way or straight swaps

post-9561-1170230189.jpg

post-9561-1170230333.jpg

Edited by teamplasma
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...