Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah coating for sure. wrapping is ok, but you can get moisture trapped between the wrap and the pipe which is not good. also when you put it on, if you dont wear gloves, and then take a slash afterwards your nuts will be itchy for a fair while. this alone is reason enough to spend the dough on the coating (or wear gloves...lol) and yes I speak from experience on this.

lol.. Worse than deep heat on (or near) the nuts? :ninja:

What is the cost difference? and where would you get the ceramic coating done?

i bought those just jap dumps,and well wish i had bought better ones that bolt on...these things have the wrong size o2 sensor holes and even the reducers out of the stock 32gtr dumps dont fit?

does 33/34 gtr o2 sensors bigger and just maybe they sent me the wrong ones.. ill be ringing tomoz 2 see...

Not trying to be to much of a tight arse here but i do all the work to my own car and considering the stock 34 dumps aren't that bad and it is a pain in the arse to remove/fit new ones, would the stock dumps be fine with the right exhaust up to about the 300 r(a)wkw mark???

We fit trust dumps over the weekend to my 32 gtr.

alot of modification of the front pipe had to be done. cut down and re welded as they wernt quiet right. we also modified the rear of the trust front pipe section to 3.5 inch instead of the 3 inch flange it had on it.

Other than that i am very happy with them. bit of a f**k around. i also bought mine second hand. And had a whole exhaust shop to play in while installing them so things wernt that bad!

i think i will go back and weld on some support bars tho. we didnt quiet get around to this.

Edited by Angus Smart
Not trying to be to much of a tight arse here but i do all the work to my own car and considering the stock 34 dumps aren't that bad and it is a pain in the arse to remove/fit new ones, would the stock dumps be fine with the right exhaust up to about the 300 r(a)wkw mark???

i'd say yes! depending on what turbos i guess.

Andrew, your‘s weren't the 32 ones though were they? I thought from memory you bought some second hand that were for a 33 or 34.

and yeah, I think for 300kw the R34 dumps will be "ok" but of course some aftermarket ones would be better, but it wont be a major problem.

Andrew, your‘s weren't the 32 ones though were they? I thought from memory you bought some second hand that were for a 33 or 34.

and yeah, I think for 300kw the R34 dumps will be "ok" but of course some aftermarket ones would be better, but it wont be a major problem.

yeah i dont think mine were for 32. but we cut up the front pipe anyway at the weld just on the merge of both, so they were a little modified. mine dont have flex pipe either. and finally my exhaust doesn't scrape!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...