Preventative Maintenance/modifying

[neergnevets]

Just wondering what the more informed RB26 owners are doing to prolong the life of their engine. Information on this is scattered across the forum, though from the searches I have done, not covered directly.

I have just bought a stock standard R32 and aiming to pretty much keep it that way, looking for key mods or preventative maintenance tips prolong its life. Will be largely used for track days and the like. Not chasing power, more reliability only. Now for the q's.

-Stock standard apart from the dump pipe back exhaust, in fitting a power fc and having it tuned by the likes of Croydon/UAS to fine tune mixtures, would the realiability and overall finer tune gained warrant the cost? Ignoring any minimal gains from a performance perspective. Or would is it be best to keep the std ECU if it is unmodified other the exhaust and plans to remains so.

-Does a bigger sump or oil cooler (ie Greddy/ARC job) reduce oil pressure levels if you dont have an aftermarket higher flowing pump? therefore causing reduced oil flow and effectiveness? for a standard engine, would it be a better option just going a Tomei baffle?

-Engine is running fine, all tests show good results on the 66000km engine, keeping in mind the cost, would it be worthwhile fitting an N1 or OEM oil and water pump in an attempt to make it more realiable? or just wait till it shows signs of being on its way out? Similarly, would you ever change big end bearings prior to them actually going on you (assuming you haven't got the engine out already)?

-Is it worth upgrading the std radiator, if running std power though used mostly for track days? or does the std one do a good enough job? any othe cooling mods/maintenance tips to prolong the engines life?

Put it this way, looking to spend a grand or two here and there now, in attempt to get an extra 20-50,000km out of the engine.

I'm obviously trying to ignore the more obvious tips like changine oil regularing, as thats been covered to death. Though are there any other less obvious tips? like cleaning the injectors or throttle body etc.. even if they are currently running alright? or is that type a thing a waste of time/money?

[MrStabby]

Looks like no informed owners have responded so here's the ramblings of an idiot... all just IMO

Your engine can die from;

- oil starvation

- pinging

- overheating

- turbo failure

I like the well tuned PFC idea - more power and better economy, and since it will turn on the engine warning light on if the pinging gets too high, you can know if somethings gone wrong (or if you got a bad batch of fuel). You can also monitor other stuff from the hand controller (eg injector duty cycle)

Bigger sump or oil cooler with have no effect on oil pressure. The bigger sump will help prevent oil starvation, and the oil cooler will help keep oil temps down at the track. Neither are probably required for street use. Keeping the oil at the correct operating temperature is important, and i find my oil temp gets uncomfortably high on the track - hopefully i'll get around to fitting my oil cooler this weekend. I wont bother with the sump as its expensive and i'm only running street tyres. I also over fill the oil for track days. High cornering speed at high RPM is where you'll get oil starvation.

I dont think changing the oil or water pumps is required, start with the oil cooler first. Not having one is an odd ommission on a high performance turbo engine.

Big ends - likewise not worth it. Rebuild the whole motor if its worn, or just run it as it is.

Radiator - dunno my car came with an aftermarket one, but it still overheats on the track. I guess that means it might be worthwhile.

Of course fully synth oil of the correct weight is mandatory in engine, diffs and gearboxes. And get some good brake pads and fluid before hitting the track.

HTH,

Kot

[Duncan]

well....I reckon....

the safest way to keep one alive is to not push it. So leave the boost standard, make sure your fuel pump is good (maybe replace) clean your injectors, clean your afms, new coils and spark plugs run an oil cooler thats about it.

If you are going to baffle the sump you need to take the engine out. If the engines out you might as well change the oil pump. If you do the oil pump you might as well do the rings and bearings. If you....you get the idea....

[psybic]

Pretty sure my GTR had its issues from more than one thing.

Firstly, cooling system wasn't in good order. Ended up having leaking welsh plugs and stuff. I think they weren't to start with, but had I had the radiator checked/changed and a good flush earlier, things may have been different.

Second thing, which started the real bad stuff, was the dead turbo. Certainly a noteable difference in the comp in the cylinders corresponding to the dead turbo.

Perhaps the cooling problems helped the turbo die.

I'd be checking the cooling system. I'd be changing all boost lines and stuff. Aparently the boost line to my actuator was cracked, acting like a bleed valve... over boosting a little on the one turbo, which blew.

I'd be really tempted to grab some newer turbo's. That may just be my thinking because i got burnt with some old ones.

[psybic]

oh and i must say, an accurate after market water temp gauge helped me know something was starting to go wrong before too much damage occured.

checking gauges all the time and having accurate ones might be a good idea for piece of mind.

[R31Nismoid]

So your tracking it.

1) Oil cooler is a good idea

2) Add an extra litre before you hit the track, will stop any potential starvation that might occur.

4) PowerFC is a good idea, just to tidy up the tune a little, but its not required if you dont have the cash.

5) Fuel pump, as with Duncan, good idea to change it.

Dont ring the neck out of it and it should last for quite some time, have a cool-down lap if its required, dont just go hammer and tongs the whole session

Overall just be sensible.

Dont do anything that requires motor out until its dead, as its basically going to cost you 5 figures once it does go (rebuild, turbos etc etc). So dont spend any of the money unless you do it all at once

[neergnevets]

Thanks for your help guys, top advice. Exactly what I was chasing. Now I'll just recap for future searches who like to scan through these things quickly like I tend to.

RECAP

Oil Starvation

- Oil Cooler and/or sump

- Synthetic oil changed regularly

- Oil temp and pressure guages

Pinging

- Replace fuel pump

- Replace vacum lines

- Replace spark plugs and coils

- Replace/clean airflow meter (good article in FAQ section on re-solding connections), injectors

Overheating

- Cleanout/upgrade radiator

- Change welsh plugs

- Aftermarket water temp guage

General

- Power FC re-tune

- Standard boost

- 5 dot brake fluid

I remember my SR20DET had a line that sprayed oil over the cams. It was usually clogged, is there similar set up on the RB26? Is there anything else (short of internal work) that I can do to improve oil flow?

Are the oil pickups a problem at all on the RB?

Edited February 1, 2007 by neergnevets

[R31Nismoid]

There is already too much oil flow

Hence you need the extra 1ltr down the bottom if you intend to track it as a lot ends up in the head.

There is already a tread on this, can find it in here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

Oil control for RB's.

But there is no need for you to do these things till rebuild time