Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I get this same problem. Anyone who gets in the car for the first time chringes with the noise.

If there is someway to fix it, I'd love to. It sounds aweful! The only time my trim has been taken off is when I got the windows tinted. My b/f said something about the glass not being in the track properly or something....

Anyone got anyway of fixing it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-315762
Share on other sites

I had the same problem. I took it to Nissan, who fixed it - apparently it's a loose bolt or something in the winding mechanism. You need to remove the door panel to fix it.

It doesn't take long to do (it took my garage less than 30 minutes) and when it's done you can wind up and down in silence...:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-316320
Share on other sites

Does anyone else get that loud clunk when you try to wind up the window when it is currently only 5 inches of the way down ?

To demonstrate it for yourself, start with window closed...Then open the window a bit to hear that skyline guys sick exhaust note next to you at the lights...After he's launched it at the lights and you seem unimpressed at the effort, close your window all the way...and...CLUNK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-317399
Share on other sites

Demon Dave is right.

I had this same problem, sounded like the window was going to break every time. I pulled the door trim off, and adjusted the rails, and tightened the bolts, as some were loose. No it makes no sound...

Just pull your door trim off, and watch your window go up and down, you'll figure it out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-317460
Share on other sites

so i take of the door trim .. what next? do i have to take of the panel between the trim and the outside panel??

i took the trim off last weekend ... but i couldn't get to the winding mechanisms at all ... i was just watching the window go up and down .. but nothing .. it only makes the noise when the door is closed ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-319729
Share on other sites

if it only makes the noise when the door is closed, its prolly coz

when the door close the window is forced outwards by the seals as it goes up.

sounds like something is bent out of alignment or the window has dropped at one end.

does one end of the window "drop" first when you start to wind it down from the closed position with the door closed?

one of these days i will fix my own drivers side window - hadnt worked for about 8mths. funny how you get used to things :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-320022
Share on other sites

this could be worth a try....

with the trim off, from memory you will see 2 adjuster bolts at the top of the door at each end of the window. these can be loosened off and slid up and down to adjust angle etc.

its possible one of these might have moved/dropped.

you can usually see where the original factory position was due to scratches and marks on the paint.

mark the current positions of the bolts before you start moving them so you can move them back if you need to.

the side that drops down first when you start winding the window down is the side i would raise a tad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-320301
Share on other sites

dan_the_man Prepsol will get silicon off , not sure about on tinted windows tho , but its used to prep paintwork .

I just recently had my door trims off to fix my door locks after having central locking hooked up to the alarm (they left a retaining hook unattached ) . I thought I'd have a look at the clunky windows while it was all off . Once the door trims are off , peel back the plastic so you can see inside the door cavity .

I found that adjusting the two top brushes eliminated the wobble in the windows . Also the window was coming down unevenly . There is an adjusting rail right in the middle of the door . It has 2 6mm nuts about 20cm apart u need to undo . Play around with this until you work out the right way to move it to make the window go up and down evenly . Worked for me .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15437-power-windows/#findComment-321568
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not alot of room in the front or mid pipe to play with Helmholtz chambers, plus they are pretty hit and miss getting the length and volume right, and time is money when it comes to trial and error testing at a exhaust shop, it isn't like test fitting mufflers or resonators From previous experience with exhausts and trying to tone down the volume and eliminate some drone, a resonator in the mid pipe typically make it much better,  and even possibly stop Jackie complaining about it, me, I really don't notice it that much, but, I am pretty deaf 馃ぃ
    • I know it's an entirely different engine, but I noticed practically 0 difference removing or adding 2x 3in (5inch body) 400cell cats (one in each bank) with regards to sound. So changing the cat to change drone I suspect will have very very, very, very, very, very very minimal impact.
    • 200 cell cat will probably help. Do you have room to tee off a Helmholtz resonator anywhere along the exhaust? These can do wonders for drones, with a little experimentation with regards to length.
    • The car revs up through the gears much better/faster now, and fuel consumption doesn't really seem to have be affected either on a Hwy cruise, which wasn't expected  The FAB9 intake manifold has been problematic sourcing though, I've contacted Plasmaman to ask about their intake, which you can get different runner lengths spec'd, and, their different options for throttle bodies  The only real physical drawback with the Plasmaman intake is how to connect it to my current OEM style airbox, as FAB9 make a OEM style back half of the airbox to suit the larger diameter throttle body, and all that is required is a 30掳bend silicone pipe to mate the throttle body to the airbox Car also goes in for some exhaust work in a week or so to fit the biggest resonator they can fit clearance wise in the front pipe to help remove some of the drone, there isn't alot of realestate under there, a rough guesstimation is it will only be about 3-400mm long and maybe 90-100mm diameter, and with a 60mm exhaust that doesn't leave alot of space for the internal volume of the resonator to do its thing I'm thinking I may need to bin the "high flow" 100 cell cat for something a bit more substantial, yeah, and restrictive, like a 200-400 cell, to help, but, I have ample room for a really large bodied cat to replace the current one which has around a 4" diameter body I may look around in the recycling bins and see if I can find a massive newish cat that was "replaced" with some new full exhaust system that the local exhaust shop in Western Sydney is doing
    • www.rollracing.com.au tickets aren鈥檛 live yet 
  • Create New...