Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas not to experienced with moding and what should follow what mods.

heres a list of my mods,

-bov

-big hybrid front mount

-k&n pod filter

-lareger then standard fuel pump, can handle about 400hp

-ngk irridium sparkies

-spitfire coil packs

-HDI boost controller with aircraft flip switch (cheap peace of shit)

im running 7psi low and 10.5psi high (mind you i wind my controller all the way out and i can only reach max 10.5psi high, dont know why but yeah. im spewing sold my turbosmart boost controller for twenty bucks.

anyway anybody know what best to do next?

ive read up and told that maybe power fc was the best option but i dont have that kind of money,

what is an safc and what does it do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154510-mods/
Share on other sites

It might help if you tell people what you intend to use the car for....

.....or at least what sort of power you're after.

Otherwise it's kind of like asking someone where they think you should go on holiday, when they have no idea what you like. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154510-mods/#findComment-2877462
Share on other sites

ive read up and told that maybe power fc was the best option but i dont have that kind of money,

what is an safc and what does it do.

Yeah, with all those mods you're going to want management. I'm guessing that your rear bar is filthy right now above the exhaust.

A SAFC is an Air/Fuel controller. It splices into the wire that the air flow meter reads from, and modifies the signal going to the ECU. By fooling the ECU, it allows you to adjust the mixture.

While not ideal (a proper ECU would be better, since you can then adjust timing as well) it would be a good start. But its also a dead-end stopgap fix - it'd be better on a light tune car with little to no mods. You can't make as much power as your mods will give you since you can't tune all the parameters, and if you continue to modify then it won't give your tuner the control they need to set up your engine properly. And since an ECU does everything a SAFC does and more, when you do replace the ECU your SAFC becomes dead weight.

I'd suggest saving up and buying a PowerFC. It may cost a lot more, but you get a lot more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154510-mods/#findComment-2882620
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...