Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice article but without the wheel sizes it's not proving anything.

<quote>

well on 1.7 bar with our gt3040 .82 we made 375rwkws and 365rwkws on 1.5. After 1.5 it was starting to blow hot air and power wasnt increasing much as you can see.

</quote>

This sounds promising!

whats cams did you have?

ill br running 272,10.3's so i dont really want to go the 3540 (1.06)

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think we should call mythbusters! Nah very nice 450, im guessing a fairly decent size a/r 1.06 above mind you lowered compression highlift cams, but does sound bit unreasonable from the guage of the other posts, yet does not state what fuel is run to achieve that power, C16?

Good you do that

Cause telling people they can make 450rwkw off a GT35/20psi on PULP with just 260 cams/no porting is a joke and would grossly mid-lead people

We'd better see a MPH well into the 135 range (140 possibly i think).

You'd also better send a letter to Garrett, they'd be interested to know about it aswell im sure.

Couldn't agree less.

My mate ran 9.95@136-138mph (VL) with 1.6/7 60'ft marks making 367rwkw

On 9 or 10inch slicks with front runners.

So if someone were to run with 450rwkw and full slicks, you'd expect nothing

under 140mph to justify the claimed power output.

Hell...with that much power you would expect a 10sec pass on re-treads... :D

However, if the stated power is correct on such little boost pressure...that person would probably put GARRETT out of business if he could supply Gt3540's that may produce that much power on such little boost.

GARRET would probably discontinue production of the GT45's

that person would probably put GARRETT out of business if he could supply Gt3540's that may produce that much power on such little boost.

GARRET would probably discontinue production of the GT45's

Yep...

Im not seeing it on Plup and 19psi as R31Nismoid said the trap speed is far to low, as mine are 130mph and im well short of 450rwkw...

Now im not sayign that he does not have 450rwkw im just syaing there is something missing here like methnol or funny gas...

Just to sow a few seeds of doubt ...

A while back I came across a few pics of what the Americans sometimes call a "GT35R T4" , this is basically a std issue GT3582R cartridge and comp cover but its turbine lives in a reprofiled TO4 turbine housing . I'll have a look and see if the pics are on this computer .

What Arnie said .

Edited by discopotato03
a guy here in NZ has a .82 gt3540r running 450rwkws on an rb25det (stock internals to)

Just to upset you all further, lol, we had a car make 477rwkw on our dyno dynamics dyno, often accused of reading too low :).... yeah right :D

rb25 head rb30 bottom end, head majorly modified for flow with epoxyed ports and big cams etc etc running a 3540 with the 1.06 exh housing and all supporting mods running a haltech ECU. The car is an absolute weapon! Not sure if it was on PULP but can check.

Will also get the dyno graph to show you all.

Couldn't believe my eyes actually :( but "hey" I was there and thats what the dyno said :)

Fuel usage logged on the haltech at the 11.5:1 AFR matched up with calculated power figures too. Thats always a good guide to use. The laws of physics don't change after a good arguement eh?

Mike

How does that upset anyone?

Its a different car, different setup, and unknown fuel/boost again.

Shall i just get out a ball of string? Its about as accurate as your information... or should i say, lack there of :)

Pics not on this computer .

The rotary turbo people say that using a T4 turbine housing moves the whole power range upwards , depending of course on housing A/R . Just my 2c worth I always thought the GT3582R had a little too large a compressor trim or not enough turbine depending on your point of view . Using larger than the biggest factory 1.06 A/R turbine housing will reduce turbine inlet pressure but it may be trying to tell us that the turbine is running out of legs . It makes me wonder why Garrett didn't make something like a TO4Z but with the GT40 82mm compressor instead - TO4 40R ?

Cheers .

The owner of a local tuning workshop owns an XR6T. He told me to push over 400rwkw they enlarge the internal gate and drop on a T66 (?) comp wheel with a .7 comp cover leaving the turbine wheel standard. IF they want to go all out I think he said they ?back cut? the turbine wheel.

That would be the GT35R with the TO4R compressor swap . In the US they're called GT3567R though by Garretts own system it would be called GT3584R . Many don't agree but I think its a case of fitting a larger size AND trim compressor to a turbo thats borderline on turbine size to start with . If I really wanted that compressor I'd buy a TO4Z because thats what they get standard but with a larger diametre smaller trim (76 vs 84) TO4 P turbine . They also have the larger diametre turbine shaft and bearing cartridge and don't tend to bend this shaft like the GT3567R can at times . The TO4Z is a Garrett factory tested combination where the GT3567R is a "wildcat" or aftermarket hybrid .

Peaceables .

Well according to Garretts own compressor and turbine graphs ~ 65 lbs of air at 60% efficiency for the compressor and ~32 lbs/min corrected exhaust gas flow at ~ 2.4 - 2.5 pressure ratio or ~22 psi gauge pressure .

At the bleeding edge I guess that means if you assume 11 Hp per pound of air 65 x 11 = 715 at approx 2.5 pressure ratio (22 psi - gauge) .

At the sort of gas speeds to take this turbo to the limit you possibly need to consider T4 flanged turbine housings so that the gas speed into the housing is not high enough to be forming a restriction or pressure rise .

Found the pics of the T4 housing on GT3582R . ATP turbo have had a couple made as well and the pics are on their site .

Cheers .

post-9594-1170535833.jpg

post-9594-1170535857.jpg

Edited by discopotato03
then why the f**k is my motor only making 307awkw on 20PSI thru a to4z .84 split rear?????????

gay i should be up heaps. could it be the 230000k old motor and stock everything inside?

That is correct :)

You need cams/cam gear, little bit of a tidy up of the head too.

On 20psi going by most others, you should be up above 350rwkw easily

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pre-empting heat management  1. The Kraken manifold will be ceramic coated 2. Just purchased some peel and stick heat shielding stuff from car builders, I'll cover some of the firewall behind the dump and a little on the cam cover, this will be done prior to installation as I have ample room to get where I need to now before that realestate has more bits in the way, I'm also planning to modify the OEM heat shield to go back on, but that won't happen until after installation so I know where to hack it up, I'll also cover it with some some peel and stick to neaten it up after the hacking 3. As the dump is stainless with a flex joint coating isn't really a option, and wrapping isn't recommended for a stainless dump, so once it is installed I'll grab some shielding from car builders to cover the dump, as it has some stand off, it "shouldn't" cause any issues and it "should" just keep the radiant heat away from " melty engine bay stuff" Not for heat management, but I've grabbed some more black crinkle coat to paint all the shiny intake pipes, I'll pick the pipe work up prior to installation and use the paint booth and big oven at work to cure them, I'll then wrap them with some bubble wrap so they stay nice during installation
    • We're back on, gang - Our yearly pilgrimage south to our favourite cafe for an awesome brekkie! Yes, that's right... we're heading down to Austi Beach Cafe for a breakfast run through the Royal National Park! Before you drool over your phones/keyboards, here are the details: Date: Sunday 23rd February Meet Location: Loftus Oval Carpark, Royal National Park, Sutherland Meet Time: Meet at 7:00am for a 7:30am departure Destination: Austi Beach Cafe, 104 Lawrence Hargrave Drive, Austinmer Map: http://tinyurl.com/saunsw-austicruise  RSVP: If you are planning to sit and have breakfast with us, please let us know, either by posting in the event, or by messaging us direct so we can confirm numbers with the venue. Itinerary: We will meet at Loftus Oval Carpark which has plenty of room and is low car friendly. This is a quick turn into the Royal National Park and some nice roads and scenery. After Stanwell Tops we will turn off and head onto the awesome Sea Cliff Bridge. Following this it is a short trip to Austi Beach Cafe. There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a Motorsport Australia permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU:NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehaviour will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave. Thanks guys and hope to see you there!
    • YO- have been searching and searching for an a31 chassis plug pinout, or someone who knows which wire is for tach.  ceffy was flooded past dash during a hurricane.  having an electrical gremlin appear. tach is wonky reading consistent with a short, and on occasion the right side of my speedo lighting will flicker just for a second then go back to normal.  if no pinout available does anyone know if the tach harness opens or branches anywhere behind the dash? im suspecting a possible root behind the radio as there are more shorts in that area on the accessory loop.
    • Means something is not set up right, tune/calibration related.  
    • Finally replaced the previous temporary mesh indicator surrounds (temporary was the last 10+ years 😂) with a 3D printed GTR style version for the front indicators. I think it looks a lot nicer than the old setup and at least the indicators now point in the correct direction rather than angled off. Needed a little bit of tweaking to deal with the intercooler piping but got there in the end. Old and new photos below. 
×
×
  • Create New...