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Just got my manifold the other day in the mail and thought id dummy it up on my setup tonight.

Yes it is one of those horrid stainless manifolds however the price i paid for it means i could break 4 of them and still be in the clear. Suprisingly it seems relatively well made and a mate whos a welder (does commercial stuff) says the welds are suprisingly good.

My one problem is where it mounts my turbo. I dont have my intake manifold with me and its in storage however im just wanting to see whether this is going to cause me a massive problem.

Im quite open to cutting a hole in the bonnet or spacing it down however was then worried about what could happen when it rained etc or the airflow of the gasses would be interrupted.

Can people post their setups and give me ideas on what i can do. Ive thought about cutting down where the turbo is mounted

Engine is rb30det (r32) with a .82 GT3540r. I have tried to fit it on my stock manfold and because of the wastegate this is the best option

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Edited by SirRacer
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Engine is rb30det (r32) with a .82 GT3540r. I have tried to fit it on my stock manfold and because of the wastegate this is the best option

isnt the stock exh. manifold a very big power restrictor? i'm running 450hp+ RB25DET and i guess that this is limiting the power and also the turbo response...

.

I don't think that manifold/turbo combo would even come close to clearing the 32 bonnet on a 20 or 25, let alone a 30.

Even chopping a couple of inches out of the collector will be borderline for clearance (maybe a bulge in the bonnet would clear it though).

For a turbo of that size on a high engine i really think you need to consider low mount options like the hks cast manifolds to fit it in a 32.

when i brought the thing i knew it would be high but unless you really have an engine to mount it on you dont really have any ideas

im not bothering with the stock manifold as there is no where there where i can plumb in an external with descent flow and im not prepared to cut into the comp housing. a spacer pushed the turbo basically into the side of the strut tower

where are some links of the other ones?

i find the "xs-power" ebay ones to be very well positioned. im usind one. from sss-autochrome

this one here is stamped xspower yet they look the same. ss autochrome dont do the top mounted ones anymore

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C.../p-34161484.htm

my brother is putting his gt35r onto his rb30 and i think this is a far better option (see pics)

the reason is that the thicker cast iron manifold will keep the heat in with less radiance, which promotes quicker spool as the energy is still very high inside the manifold

thin walled stainless steel radiate too much heat and in turn a bit of energy is lost. Also, the longer the runners the more distance there is for the exhaust gas to radiate heat along its length = more energy lost. The last thing you want is increased lag with a turbo this size combined with a relatively low rev limit of the 30.

the pics show the standard rb30 cast manifold which has been power ported and modified to accept an external gate. Keeps it a low mount and able to fit between the strut towers.

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thats an rb30 manifold and the skyline ones are much different and there really isnt any possible area to tap into which will have even flow

can a few people post some pics of top mount setups to give me an idea on whether modifying this manifold will possibly work.

if you look at some of the pics the collectors finish and then there is the kind of spacer bit which mounts the turbo up higher. if i cut that off and remount the flange lower down i should be able to stop the turbo another 5cms so then it will only be 5cms above the rocker cover, will this work?

this is a pic of how it could sit if it was dropped a bit

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Looks too high to me.

If you could rotate it I'd say it looks like it's on upside-down - but I understand that the RB30 head stud pattern

doesn't allow for that.

Do what you've done - put the turbo where you think it should be, figure out where the turbo flange

should be relative to the exhaust flange(s). Then find a manifold that makes that happen.

If it's a split-pulse manifold you're going to have a great deal of trouble cutting the flange off and re-welding

another one on (because of the split-pulse - they are almost impossible to weld from 'the other side').

Regards,

Saliya

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