Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Uh, really it's going to save you a lot of money (or, better put, you'll gain money rather than lose it) if you just sell it and buy a gtst.

To properly CONVERT it to RWD, you'll just need to source gtst bits anyway.. Not worth it at all!

Edit: ok I see you said adjust, my bad. If you do mean temporarily, then it's simply a matter of removing a fuse (I don't know specifics), that's if its the same as a GTR, someone who knows more than me should be able to confirm this pretty easily.

Edited by aDrew_C
hey guys im a noob at this.

Is it posible to adjust a r32 gts4 to just rwd?

how is it done?

how much?

whats involved?

cheers

Tone.

easy...buy a switch loom $35

you can register your interest here...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5207&st=220

i need 3 more names before i do another batch

my car came with a switch, which also came with a problem, i lost my 4wd altogether now. I bought 'Dirtgarage' switch, which i was told it would override the error but it didnt do shit. Would anyone have an idea of getting my 4wd back into action?

Cheers

Steve.

check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

You would be wiser to check the fluid level in the reservoiur in the boot on the rhs. If that is ok you may need to bleed the system as well to get it working properly. That is assuming that the electronics are ok and you have checked the fuse under the hood is OK. It says on the cover which one.

Yea the fuse under the dash and hood is fine, id have to have a look at the comp tommorow. And the fluid in the reservoiur seems to be fine.

You see my confusion comes when i try put 4wd back on its active, but only for about 3secs max, then the 4wd light comes on.

Hopefully its nothing major and i could resolve it myself with your help which btw i appreciate alot, cheers fellas.

Lets assume the electronics are fine though, how would i bleed the system? Sorry newbie with hands on work, jus want to know that im doing the right thing before i go cause another problem.

Cheers,

Steve.

Edited by GTS4-32

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=bleed++attessa

In there is a howto on bleeding attessa.

Make sure you check the fuse under the bonnet as well. The ~3sec delay is normal for the 4wd light to come on if there is a fault.

Fluid good, Bled properly, check fuses, check the led on the ets controller for diagnostic readout.

Well i just had a quick look at the fluid level and condition in the reservoiur, and it seems to be black with a tinge of pink at the top but not much...would that be my problem there? Before i go any further with the investigation.

Cheers,

Steve.

check your fuses, check you have power going to the ets controller, if you have and it still doesn't work, check the flashing led on the ets controller and post back what the code is if you can't get a hold of a manual.

I had a look at the code on the ets controller and the red LED flashes 22 times in 1 sec period then stops and starts again. If i could please get a read out on what that means, be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve.

22 is ETS oil level switch or circuit.

You definately have enough fluid in the res?

Otherwise check the res level switch continuity.

If neither is the problem look at wiring harness or controller borked.

Well its just below max..but i will be bleeding it as soon as i can get another pair of hands to help me out and abit of time on my hands. Hopefully thatll solve my issue.

Thanks heaps heller44, uve been a great help. :laugh:

Cheers,

Steve.

  • 2 weeks later...

i started bleeding it on the weekend, and it was working fine at the start, did it every 30 sec or so, but after about the 3rd attempt it wasnt sucking no more. Tryed everything, just didnt get going again.

Just a quick question, im bleeding the pump and re-filling the pump at the same time, is this correct? Because the fluid doesnt seem to be turning pink in the pump.

Cheers,

Steve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...