Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

iv had an r33 gtst for about 6mnts and now am wanting to modify my engine. the only modifications are intercooler and pod filter that i noe of. i hav $10000 to spend and was wondering if anyone had any advice on modifcations to get the most power from my engine. i hav in mind to put in a computer, new fuel pump and injectors. also will be purchasing a new turbokit with a bigger high mount turbo. are these mods wise? Also thinkin bout converting the rb25 to a rb30 block is there ne great advantage to this or is it just alot of hassel for only a minimal advantage? Ne advice would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154697-engine-upgrade/
Share on other sites

if i had 10g large to spend and was happy how my car looked

id go, nice new suspension

brake upgrade

hiflo stock turbo

injector upgrade

powerfc

fuel pump

z32 afm

exhaust, dump pipe, hiflo cat

and get a quality tune

i would make sure to buy as quality parts at the 10g allowed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154697-engine-upgrade/#findComment-2877266
Share on other sites

It comes down to what you want to do with the car.

Personally, i want a car with good response at the expense of top end (even though i have fluked a good balance) as my car is predominantly street driven.

With that in mind, I dont think you can go past a garrett 3071IW (or 52 trim 3076 IW if you want more then 270rwkw) on the stock manifold, with dump and lines and intake pipe installed should be under 3k. You're at the limit of your stock internals already.

Id get hks 256/264 cams for about 1200 delivered, add 300 installed.

z32 afm and pfc (if you can find one) 2k installed and tuned.

5 inch metal cat and cheapy exhaust and front pipe from someone like just jap say 1200 installed.

555 nismo injectors, say 1k installed if you get your own off nengun or perfect run and have them installed with the rest of the gear.

The remaining 1k or so on swaybars and upgraded springs and shocks.

There's a lot more suspension and driveline stuff you will need to do later on to get all the power down but your out of cash for now :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154697-engine-upgrade/#findComment-2877319
Share on other sites

if i had 10g large to spend and was happy how my car looked

id go, nice new suspension - 1500

brake upgrade - 1000

hiflo stock turbo -2000

injector upgrade - 750

powerfc - 1000

fuel pump - 300

z32 afm - 350

exhaust, dump pipe, hiflo cat - 1200

and get a quality tune - 500

i would make sure to buy as quality parts at the 10g allowed

I concur once again :)

I've added in some rough prices into the quote above...

It works out to around $8,600 not including labour which will makeup the $1,400 once it all in/fitted etc etc.

However a crucial point, i'd also add a clutch to the list $1,200... so total will probably be closer to 11k give or take

The car will be much faster with the money spent on important areas like suspension/braking.

It will also be much more fun to drive than something with just outright power and absolutely no way to use it.

I see little point in spending just 10k on the motor alone for big turbos/manifolds/3ltr bottom end as its totally out of the price range. Its closer to around 20k by the time you do it all if you want the handling with it.

You could "just" spend the 10k on all the power, make 300rwkw, but the car next to you with 250rwkw will give you an absolute hiding anytime, anywhere.

Being it will have a good lot of parts that make a fast car, not just a banger motor.

Power does not automatically equal a fast car, it an overall package. And for the street, 250rwkw is about as much as you'll need

So loser1, take the advice or not, thats just my personal opinion after being around for a few years :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154697-engine-upgrade/#findComment-2877683
Share on other sites

I agree. Too much talk of 300rwkw and not enough of a decent car thats going to go the distnace and be able to dirve well.

eg decent suspension upgrade will cost you 3k installed. Bilstiens, spings, swaybars, bushes etc plus install.

Clutch as mentioned...for 250 or so there are plently of options. about 1-3 k installed depending on ur option.

5k of those alone which doesn't make power...just allows ur car to use what power u just made.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154697-engine-upgrade/#findComment-2877909
Share on other sites

thanx guys for ur input i appreciate it it helps but i already hav sway bars, brand new adjustable coil overs, aftermart 3" straight through exhaust so handling and suspension is not an issue this is about power gain. I will make any adjustments later if neccessary. The turbo has already been rebuilt with a larger compressor wheel. I hav ova 200rwkw im jus lookin for the 300 mark or over. and the clutch will be changes cause its stuffed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154697-engine-upgrade/#findComment-2882032
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...