Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the whiteline front camber kit is like $160 if you get it via the whiteline online store..come to think of it.. repco / autobarn have it at that price also.... i dunno why there $300 in the GB?? maybe you get 2 sets or something??

kca348 is wat ur after i think

Thanks justin.

I'm not sure if I need 1 kit or 2.

Do you only use one in the inner side if your alignment isn't that bad? (i.e. only need 1 pack)

Cheers.

I'm wondering if you just put it on one of the 2 points where it meets the chassis (in where one of the wishbone bushed was). This would change camber and toe at the same time.. so then you just get it aligned and they adjust tie rod aswell to make sure the toe is right??

Any comments appreciated

Anybody got the fitting instructions? Its not on the web..

Edited by benl1981

cause at the moment on my last allignment it was like 1.39(not sure if theres meant to be a minus in there!) or something

what does that mean? :laugh:

he said thats the most negative he could get out of the stock arms/camber

evil, your alignment guy was pulling your middle leg.

There is no camber adjustment stock on the front of skylines.

That number is most likely -. If it's plus, there's something seriously wrong with your car.

The front camber kit will allow you to run more neg camber for the track, as well as it will allow you to dial out neg camber from lowering the car for the street for tyre life

if its for an R33 then $300 is a complete rip off. I don't know why it was priced anywhere near that in the group buy (maybe because the R32 kit is apparently that much, maybe they just dragged the same price over for the 33)

I don't think I even paid half of that ridiculous price...i've got the full whiteline/bilstein kit now, and I only got the springs/shocks and bump stops/dust covers from the GB...the rest of it I got from repco way cheaper, and thats without any bartering at all...I just gave them part numbers and the first prices they gave me for each item were cheaper

Shop around people...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the head expecting to find broken and bent valves, but instead found number 1 at TDC and cylinder 2 at the top of its cylinder stroke as well, thought that was weird and proceeded to push cylinder 2 back down until it either bottomed out on its other piston half or the conrod either way we found the issue kind of,  now to remove the engine and see how the block looks, hopefully its just the top off a piston.  
    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
×
×
  • Create New...