Jump to content
SAU Community

Question For Built Engine Guys

240gtr

By 240gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

240gtr Rookie

240gtr

Posted
Posted

For those of you with forged internals, how reliable has your engine been? I ask because i need a rebuild but i am weary of putting forged pistons and rods in it. I have seen 4 built engines eat themselves in the past week (they were subaru engines though). The car is a weekend/nice day car with an occasional trip to the strip.

Thanks,

Brandon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154856-question-for-built-engine-guys/
Share on other sites
GTshortie Proficient

GTshortie

Posted
Posted

Got my engine rebuilt completed in November 2004 (rb25det), 33000kms after it still runs healthy no problems at all this is running 1.0bar of boost for circuit/street 1.30bar of boost for drags. Get below 20 knock on my pfc hand controller with the occasionally 25knock.

CP Forged Pistons

THICK metal head gasket (lower compression, i regret doing this)

Shot-peened and leenished, crack tested rb25 conrods

itbmils Proficient

itbmils

Posted
Posted
For those of you with forged internals, how reliable has your engine been? I ask because i need a rebuild but i am weary of putting forged pistons and rods in it. I have seen 4 built engines eat themselves in the past week (they were subaru engines though). The car is a weekend/nice day car with an occasional trip to the strip.

Thanks,

Brandon

Hey

R32 GTR rebuilt 2 years ago (20,000klm)

Wysco forged pistons

N1 Bearings

shot peen / balanced blah blah blah

Tomei head gasket - std thickness (a good thing)

running 1.2 bar all day every day (with N1 turbos)

Only problem I have is my knock readings can get up to 60 - but it's NOT pinging - this may be the wyscos, or high clearances - not sure which

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

light tune GTSt running around 200rwkw most days... rebuilt about 20,000km ago and have done about 4 motorkhanas and 3 track days (60+laps) with no problems... running Arias forged pistons and prepped/tested stock rods...

the knock sensors go crazy on mine but I have been told the Apexi stuff is really sensitive and due to the rather large piston to bore clearances (as spec by Arias...you could probably go closer but meh)...

on cold mornings there is audible piston slap and it generally idles a bit rougher than stock but I have a/m cams so that doesn't help

it all depends on what you want in the future... if you have no plans for major power upgrades I would just run standard pistons, they are generally lighter and quieter than forgies

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

I have done 8,000 kms on my GTR engine since it was built in Sept 05.

I use CP pistons and the engine is absolutely perfect - The only problem I have had since the build is a faulty CAS which I replaced with a brand new item.

240gtr Rookie

240gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys, makes me feel better about putting some quality components in there. I noticed that you all are running CP, wiseco, or arias pistons. Anyone had any experience with JE pistons for the 26? I ask only because i can get a set of JE's with rings and Eagle H beam rods for $1040 U.S.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

they dont all do it...my acls dont do it...i ran tighter then spec clearances both piston to bore and ring end gap and i dont get any slap. You get slap if you do it to the manufacturers spec...but it does depend on the application to which your running the motor as to what clearances you run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • kevboost7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Wow, i wish i found this sooner.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • Chocolate Cheesecake.
      Infiniti Q60 Navigation Update

      By Chocolate Cheesecake. · Posted

      I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
×
×
  • Create New...