Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

"So does that mean that stagea fronts will bolt on? Didn't you say it was the same as r33 ie need s14/15 front hubs? If its straight bolt on then im getting stagea setup!"

FFS yes Stagea front bolted on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I said Stagea lower control arms appear to be the same length as s14 i.e couple of mm longer in reply to the guys question about wider stance

We used stagea front lower control arms so you dont have to do the Adz gay f*kn press in s13 ball joints or f*kn whatever

only problem is needing to use s14 coilovers in the front or redrilling out your s13 coils so it can take the s14 bolts

to me I'd rather use s14 or whatever you have's lower control arms and sort out the coils than the other way around seems much easier

Huddy all we did was use the stagea 5 stud hubs and rotors thats it didnt need touch the handbrake mech on the ceffy at all........ at all!

grr

No Adz no engine in Friday, Friday is a work day so Saturday afternoon maybe if Huddy's upto it will try and fit it

Edited by 1400r

told ya he wants to bang ya ryan LMAO ROFL - if u and the huddy need help il do what i can, and try not too hinder u guys as per usual, after all it is my specialty.........

il make sure my work hats on

as for why ryan is upset........is because he's quite simply posted what EXACTLY was used to convert the ceffy and still gets dumb ass *MILKSHAKES* asking him dumb ass questions

*recalls a dumbass g1 question*

*nathan g1 points at stagea cradle*

*nathan g1 points at tellys hicas rack on cefiro cradle*

nathan: are you going to put that *points at hicas rack* onto that? *points at non hicas cradle*

me: no we are not. as that is a hicas rack, hicas = bad.

nathan: oh... well these arms look adjustable are we transferring these? *points at hicas arms*

me: no, no we are not... they are evil also

Edited by Hella Flush
We used stagea front lower control arms so you dont have to do the Adz gay f*kn press in s13 ball joints or f*kn whatever

only problem is needing to use s14 coilovers in the front or redrilling out your s13 coils so it can take the s14 bolts

to me I'd rather use s14 or whatever you have's lower control arms and sort out the coils than the other way around seems much easier

Hmmm re drilling the coil holes doesn't sound to nice and RWC on a road car. But as long as the hubs bolt on im satisfied.

BTW if this doesn't work. I know where you work :blush: lol

Note: FS: R33 brake setup :ninja:

as for why ryan is upset........is because he's quite simply posted what EXACTLY was used to convert the ceffy and still gets dumb ass *MILKSHAKES* asking him dumb ass questions

...and to this.

I don't know if it's because you are from SA that you could understand, but personally I couldn't quite grasp what he was trying to say with all the un-punctuated typing. So I thought I would clarify the situation before going out and spending $$$ on a new brake setup. I do apologise and will keep my "dumb ass questions" to myself in the future, even though I was sure this was a technically based forum.

Oh and one last thing....

STFU

konnect

i have done front conversion using s14 (which is same as stagea... has the 14mm bolt holes on the stub axles)

i used s14 coilovers in the front (i had the luxury of when ordering brand new ones from japan specifying my fronts are to have s14 bottom collars) but full s14/s15 ones will work in the front... but need to use r32/s13 coilovers in the rear

also i believe you can get away with just changing the front hubs rather than whole stub axles also (like you do on the rear)

i unfortunately didnt go down this path... i did full stub axle and r33 balljoints in lower control arms to fit the s14 stub axles

if i were to do it again id just put the hubs into the cefiro stub axles on all 4 corners of the car and remove the brake dust covers and fit my 33 brakes... but the way ive done it isnt bad - it just cost me an extra... 100 bucks for the balljoints in the lower arms

*recalls a dumbass g1 question*

*nathan g1 points at stagea cradle*

*nathan g1 points at tellys hicas rack on cefiro cradle*

nathan: are you going to put that *points at hicas rack* onto that? *points at non hicas cradle*

me: no we are not. as that is a hicas rack, hicas = bad.

nathan: oh... well these arms look adjustable are we transferring these? *points at hicas arms*

me: no, no we are not... they are evil also

1 - no arms on the ceffy or stagea were adjustable and your making a whole bunch of shit up, however i did ask a dumb question that day and thats the only point il give u.

2 - your the one who F***d the whole thing up and the ceffy cradle was used anyway and the stagea hubs transfered coz u had no idea WTF u were doing

3 - im over it, its done......sayonara

Edited by Nathan_G1

rofl g1! ryan and i had no 100% gurantee at anytime it would work... we shouldve measured in the first instance - but we were stupid and gung ho so...

but its all good

its done now and thats it! chinese burn for you next time i see you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...