Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the safc can help you run twin afms on a single afm ecu

but a single q45 shouldnt be maxing at 280rwkw

when you say its maxing what is the problem you are seeing?

how are you deterimining that it's maxing?

have you tried cleaning it ?

the out put of the AFM is reaching 5.1volts. the AFM is not durty because "2rismo" is having the same problem.

there could be other reasons its maxing out, we just don't know what they are.

yours is a s1 R33 ? same as 2rismo's?

maybe its something with the wiring ?

in the S2 skyline we have to pair up the ground signal

as the loom only has ground, signal and power.

maybe its something to do with that ?

autronic smalltronic >_< yeah you gotta respect them ... but we aint running autronics so go jump :)

I got a q45 in mine and i did a dyno run of 296rwkw and was on load value 17 on 20psi so i only had 3 to go myself.. but that 3 should give me another 50rwkw ???

correct me if i am wrong...

even now running 15psi its on the same value or close to it....

dont confuse the load point placing with maxing the afm

the load points can be rescaled infintely around the afm load

ie: i can make my pFC hit load point 18 on 1.5v of AFM load if i want

or i can make my PFC hit load point 20 on 4.9v of AFM load if i want

just because it hits the bottom row doesnt mean its hitting 5v

Both my -60 and -61 part numbered Q45's are maxing out at almost the same level. The -60 at 15psi on the GT35 and the -61 at 19psi. I'm seeing the AFM voltage max out on both the hand controller as well as the tuning software which logs it at 5.1+ volts.

It's not a dirty AFM and everything I've checked suggests that it's wired correctly. I'm beginning to think it's something in the wiring however i'm stunned that i haven't seen this issue mentioned elsewhere in 6-odd years of Skyline fan-dom.

It has me farked.

got some data logs i can see?

am curious what the loading looks like from it (as revs increase etc)

send em through if you can;

paulr33 @ hotmail.com

also what model PFC are you using?

rb25/rb26/ap eng? what version?

I am also a stunned man.... not that it helps the situation >_<

Failing the issue being fixed, you can tune past if the AFM has maxed out if you wanted too :)

Spoolup's results i think will be a key factor in the level of "stun" im expiriencing!

Are you guys both using the same tuner?

Just trying to look for some common ground other than the AFM iteself

The car is wired exactly as per the diagram on your website, Paul. I'll try and get the logs sent to me and I'll forward them on to you. It's a boring, ordinary RB25DET PFC. Can get the version number if necessary but it's literally feet away in the shed and I'm on my 5th Corona :|

You may not agree on my lateral thinking but I have proved that by increasing the area/dia of the pipe will give more flow potential to the AFM. (Std RB20)

I just cut the circular part off and drilled a hole the size of the probe and inserted it thru and glued the box part to the outside of the larger pipeing.

Allowed me to run 550cc injectors on standard tune and drive to dyno for triming.

_Nissan_RB20DET_AFM_01.jpg

More info here on AFM Upgrade

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
×
×
  • Create New...