Jump to content
SAU Community

What Can Be Achieved With Modified Stock Parts ?

gts-4 dreamer

By gts-4 dreamer,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gts-4 dreamer Mentor

gts-4 dreamer

Posted
Posted

For example can the stock boost controller be modfied to hold increased boost levels?

How adjustable is the stock exhuast cam gear on a r33 25t, ie is it practicable use @ time of tune. does it have enough adjustment in it to be of use?

Can the stock fuel pressure regulator be adjusted to a higher pressure requirement if required ?

What parts can I increase in effectiveness with some modification for those of us who wish to increase output without the mamoth pricetag involved ? Ofcoarse some need to be out and out replaced depending on what your aims are ofcoarse I'm just wondering where we can re-use the stock parts

some of us also have mortgages and dont quite earn enough to indulge in thier hobby / passion as much as they like.

Im thinking what have we got that is needlessly upgraded when we simply dont requrie it or there is an alternate method that is cheaper and just as effective. No dodgy hand grenade setups or something likely to fail miserably.

Ideas? :spank:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

1) not sure

2) no, you need to spend money to make it adjustable, even then from what ive seen there is no gain anyhow

3) no

Unfortunately performance costs money, and hardly anything is free unless your a fabricator and use your own time/skills to make stuff.

The basic stuff is around 4-5k or there abouts.

Its just the usual parts that require money.

Exhaust

I/C upgrade of some kind (R34 SMIC or FMIC)

Bleed valve

S-AFC/ECU & a tune

Clutch

I wouldnt call mods "needless", its more a return on invesment.

You get good returns for the first few thousand, then you need to spend more and more as it goes up.

Especially your first 3 points... they are possibly the cheapest items to purchase to begin with

gts-4 dreamer Mentor

gts-4 dreamer

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

true, they just happen to be where I am at on my path to a better performing car. The idea of the thread was there were some places maybe I could improve the OEM or re-use the oem that I may not have thought about, my listings were just ideas.

the stock boost controller would be good as making the second stage boost slightly higher and saving on an adjustable ebc.. which i wouldnt call cheap. but yea there are alternatives.

got the FMIC installed an a 3" cat back.

got a 3" wide body cat (honey comb style) not yet installed (finding gaskets to fit is a mission so far, prollly pick up from an exhuast place).

need a front + dump, thinking the btmbl just incase i go for my full hp target or change compressor, but finding someone who's selling this second hand seems hard since no one seems to be giving them up and instead is keeping them.

getting a 20psi vac/boost guage and the $22 ball n spring type bleeder of ebay (the one fromt the 8 page long thread here) next week also a decent pannel filter.

need a fuel pump and planning on an intank replacement as Im not going over 250rwkw at any point.

Then the decisions on the big money, management, compressor, injectors.

which way I go on management will determine the last 2 and whether or not i go for 220-230 or the 250.

Edited by gts-4 dreamer
BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

Besides that, you could try the high boost solenoid trick found in the DIY section, water injection, up the boost to 14psi, fuel cut defender, split dump pipe, hi-flow cat, cold air intake. All fairly effective and produce noticeable difference in power. Or just add N20.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

There is the $22 boost controller and the autospeed fuel and ignition computers, plenty of things you can do with spending too much.

Locally made zorst heaps cheaper than jap ones

Local oil coolers and radiators the same

Bendix ultimate pads and RDA or DBA rotors are cheap.

You can modify the cam gear if you really need to, it only needs a few degrees to make the difference - but it is very hard to set or adjsut accurately.

GTR stuff comes cheap as well, gtr fuel pump fits straight in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Kinkstaah
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      the ergonomics are real
×
×
  • Create New...