Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

(my write up from Ziptied.com so some of the names might be confusing sorry guys)

So the time has come...

1992 Kouki Cefiro S14 SR20DET

only had it 4 months...

Interior:

Full interior swap (brown to black)

BRIDE Seats

Carpet removed

NRG quick release

Momo Wheel

R32 Rear seat

Blitz SBC

Blitz Power Meter

Clarion MP3 Deck

Exterior:

Uras Aero

FRP Bonnet

FRP Fenders

IDK Wing

BinLorin Custom Paint

Engine:

S14 SR20DET

S14 K-member

Custom Tranny Mount

GTR intercooler (mounted were the radiator was)

S14 Radiator (mounted behind intercooler)

HKS Plugs

Stainless Manifold (wrapped)

Ordered SB turbo lines from (MA Motorsports) kick ass guys!

Drivetrain Suspension Brakes:

Cusco F and R Tower braces

Close Ratio S14 Tranny

Nismo Short throw

S14 Propel Shaft

Nismo 2way

Nismo Lateral Rods

JIC Coilovers (10k F, 8k R)

Polurethane sway bushings

Solid Diff mounts

5-Lug Swap

R32 GTR Brakes

S13 Steel braided brake lines

Still need:

Good set of Gauges

Some Baller ass wheels!!

Days after the R32 was wrecked...

DSC01053.jpg

i picked this up for next to nothing.... 1992 NA Cefiro RB20E

DSC01093.jpg

swapping everything over...

DSC01127.jpg

DSC01140.jpg

DSC01142.jpg

after 5lug brakes, diff, suspension, etc etc... now off to Shawken (japanese inspection)!!

Picture003-1.jpg

So the car had a RB20E which means 150hp of pure NA FURY!!! powering a big ass 4 door... so it needs something more... Bought this gem for about $1000

DSC01391.jpg

DSC01401.jpg

Edited by 4DoorWhore
  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so i got a S14SR Swap kit, and a few good FRP parts... and OUT it came! and bye bye orange dorifuto sled...

DSC01619.jpg

DSC01624.jpg

so 2 cars become one... and its time for PAINT...

DSC01834.jpg

DSC01621.jpg

Prep time!!... called in my buddy Lorin (3 time winner of Best Paint Job at the SEMA auto show) from tochigi since he happend to be in town and after alot of bitching at me for my horrible to nill prep job he preecided to finish it up haha....

DSC01840-1.jpg

DSC01839.jpg

DSC01840-1.jpg

DSC01841.jpg

DSC01846.jpg

DSC01847.jpg

DSC01849.jpg

Al who?

DSC01850.jpg

DSC01851.jpg

end of the day....

DSC01852.jpg

DSC01853.jpg

DSC01848.jpg

Edited by 4DoorWhore

More pics later tonight of the final shoot... we will pull it out of the booth Wenesday....

Lorin has been kind enough to come down again wenesday to cut and rub it... cause im rediculously busy and it might be a while before i could get to it...

I have had the car for about 4 months... trust me i dont have the money for this either... but this is what happens when you eat chow-hall (military food) and walk to work... oh and i dont have rent to pay or anything... but f**k am i tired of being broke...

we had a 2007 color picked out, from a Toyota Bb, but the paint shop couldnt order it cause it wouldnt be available till april BS... so i had to fall back on the black cause every shop has black instock. but fuuucccckkk do i love a black car....

UPDATE:

Final Shoot....

today we took it out of the booth after the flake job last night... took 800 wet to it to cut down the flake flat, then its back in the booth for even more clear!!! while doing this we prepped the Aero for paint and Lorin shot it like a champ!!

Pics...

so we started the day cutting back the Flake...

DSC01883.jpg

Me and Jarred knocked that shit out in no time...

DSC01887.jpg

While we were doing that Lorin was doing what he does best...

DSC01884.jpg

DSC01886.jpg

after that was done its time to roll the car in for its final coats of clear...

DSC01889.jpg

time to get it!!

DSC01905.jpg

DSC01901.jpg

and the fruits.... sparkling red box wine indeed!!

DSC01900.jpg

DSC01898.jpg

DSC01896.jpg

DSC01908.jpg

Dont be like Mike... paint your door jams!!

DSC01909.jpg

sorry if im going Photo crazy...

Oh and i tried a VIDEO, looks like it worked out ok so i might get some more next weekend....

th_MOV01914.jpg

More to come when we get done cutting rubbing and maybe putting it back together...

MUCH MORE TO COME.... [/color]

I would like to thank thus far:

Jarred - for driving my ass around and helping on the car here and there and putting up with my shit... oh and letting me touge his car while my car is in the shop...

Lorin - for a rediculous paint job and prep and also putting up with my shit...

Shige - For every f**king yahoo.jp part ive ever bought and for helping a shit load on all our cars as a friend. And for finding the Orange Labyrinth Cefiro. also Fender rolls, Touge trips, emergencies, tires, drift-road-trips, snowborad trips,... and so much more...

Nick - For morale support... haha and going to the desert so i dont have to. and for buying another ceffy so i will have a parts buddy.

Mike - Morale support and reminding me that Flip chicks are f**king retarded... "dude that chick is still calling me, when will she get the point, im going to say my number changed to yours..."

All those HS kids - that i made a shitload of money off of selling parts for rediculous amounts of money.

Those Asshole USAF Security Forces Dicks - who pulled me over for nothing and got my license taken for 6 months, if that not happend f**k if i would have the money to get this far.

Edited by 4DoorWhore

OOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooo, that looks nice as, i cant wait to see it all together, but ive got a couple questions if you dont mind me asking. First, why did you wreck the 32?, it seemed fixable , secondwhat type of paint is that?, third, is that an oven its being painted in?, if so its huuuuge and last of all i cant wait to see it finished!!!

OOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooo, that looks nice as, i cant wait to see it all together, but ive got a couple questions if you dont mind me asking. First, why did you wreck the 32?, it seemed fixable , secondwhat type of paint is that?, third, is that an oven its being painted in?, if so its huuuuge and last of all i cant wait to see it finished!!!

well i crashed the 32... then with the trunk open and frame bent i decided to just keep drifting it. and it seams if i dont care about a car i can blow it up. i drifted it harder then ever and blew the motor well 3 out of 6 cylinders... so i just said f**k it and junked it. it looks better than it was... there was a crease all the way in front of the rear window..

its PG japanese paint (Black) with House of Kolor Red Mini-Flake over it..

no the booth is not heated at all....

VIDEO FIXED.........

Edited by 4DoorWhore

im in fussa, http://fudosan.yoursnet.com/images/30222/jr.gif if you check this im on the Ome Line in the upper left corner... Fussa Station..

stop on by.. ill show you the base if you want then head out for the touge... anybodys welcomed, as long as your not a dumbass...

Edited by 4DoorWhore
  • 2 weeks later...

New Wheels! nothing crazy as i kinda bought them for a quick fix, and they were cheeeeeaaapp.... have them mounted by tuesday... hopefully the car done by next weekend, then to start dropping the motor and tranny in...

18" Chrome GRENADE GX-01's

mega865jp-img600x450-1171078981img_0333.jpg

few more gansta pics should finish the paint up tommorow... glazzing... mmm like a donut!

DSC01954.jpg

DSC01958.jpg

DSC01955.jpg

DSC01960.jpg

DSC01973.jpg

more coming....

another Q - all your reference to $$$ is that australian dollars? / american $$$?

cheers

oh sorry... all my refrences are in American $$, i wasnt paying attention, is there much of a diference.

Grenades come in 17 or 18" x 8.5J 9J x +15, 20, 30

These are 18" x 9J x +30 would have liked a better offset but its been a while since Grenades have popped up on Yahoo so i jumped on them... ...... i got them for about $450 USD

also had a strange feeling about these since there super rare and this brand new set is going for $175 USD once again the offset sucks though +40 gay if these had a better offset id be in heaven...

CLUB LINEA LIMIX LINEAEA9×18+40 10.5J×18+46アリスト

akira_shisa-img600x450-1171773116arisuta.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
×
×
  • Create New...