Jump to content
SAU Community

Four Doors Have The Power And The Panties! (money Shots! Pg5)

4DoorWhore

By 4DoorWhore,
in Members and Their Rides

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

4DoorWhore Community Regular

4DoorWhore

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

new i think they are about Y27000 a piece for 18's just FYI...

yeah S13 sorry did i put S14? the rack its self is about the same but the actual steering shaft is for sure a S13 two piece instead of a S14 solid shaft....

Edited by 4DoorWhore
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted
dammit now your mixing me up... haha yeah teh come factory s13 rack, i have R32 tierods, and its on a S13 engine member instead of the A31... wait im lost? what are you asking?

lol now i'm getting lost

S13 engine mount and rack with 8mm rack spacers equal ridiculous angle...

da 8mm rack spacers was da only thing dat gave u more steering lock('angle' as u put it) yea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
4DoorWhore Community Regular

4DoorWhore

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

wooo hooo it runs, well sort of......... starts up like a champ... doesnt quite idle so i need to do some fine tuning but i had to take some pics for so people so ill go ahead and post what i got so far....

once i get it running solid and make the brackets for the IC and rad then ill take it down to a friends shop to get th IC piping made...

Major hard-parking cause like i said it doesnt run quite right yet... and all the panel and aero are just ziptied on... and it NEEDS TO BE LOWERED, and a different set of tires... haha its at that Ozzy ride height and needs to be at that Japan height (no offense)

first the pretty pics...

DSC02180.jpg

DSC02184.jpg

DSC02187.jpg

DSC02190.jpg

DSC02185.jpg

pics taken by a friend -yokotas13-

IMG_4309.jpg

IMG_4308.jpg

IMG_4307.jpg

IMG_4306.jpg

IMG_4305.jpg

heres where I need help... like i said it runs but doesnt idle, im not saying these are the problem but id like to get these pluged into the right places... so if these look familiar and you know where they go chime in...

this is a factory 92 MT Kouki RB20E cefiro with a Kouki S14 SR engine/ecu harness, im pretty sure the old owner of the swap had it in a Zenki factory AT RB20? Cefiro

DSC02193.jpg

from the MAF area...

DSC02197.jpg

other side these are from the fuse box...

DSC02198.jpg

DSC02199.jpg

thanks for all the help and good words....

Edited by 4DoorWhore
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

no fkn wounder it doesn'r run rite.. its got no cooler

pls tell me wen u were running it da rad was connected and filled? :D

oh nd yea grants fotos are always great :(

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
Share on other sites
huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

we used to have a '15 year' import rule - where compliance was consideraly less. so a couple years ago 1990 and 1989 cars were brought into aus really cheap! That rule has now changed, but we can still bring in 88 and pre-88 cars cheap.

Bugger - as yours is a 92, i think it 'might' be able to be brought over to aus, but wouldnt be worth it (as a 88 ceff compliance would be $1000 or less and your 92 one would be roughly $4000 Aus dollars)

i bought my ceffy a couple years ago for $7000 australian dollars, which at the time was pretty cheap. it was a bit rough, but it had a couple of nice things on it, and now its come a Long way - with more goodies next week :) Muhahaha

Link to comment
Share on other sites
4DoorWhore Community Regular

4DoorWhore

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Bugger - as yours is a 92, i think it 'might' be able to be brought over to aus, but wouldnt be worth it (as a 88 ceff compliance would be $1000 or less and your 92 one would be roughly $4000 Aus dollars)

daaaaaaaaaamn!!! thats crazy... :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      RB26 boost leak? limp mode?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • elohim_imanu
      Removing sump

      By elohim_imanu · Posted

      I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • MBS206
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Dose Pipe Sutututu Sounds good.  Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/  I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted." 
×
×
  • Create New...