Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah. lock washers.

i ended up solid mounting mine. it just so happend there a 3inch bush.

a trip down to edcon steel for some 3 inch round plates.

it was abit tricky getting the whole lot centalised. (car at home and subfame at work.

i ended up putting nismo diff bushes in to. old ones werent there lol.

it moved the subframe up around 1 inch. wich is a nice handy roll center adjustment hehe.

Thats what i've found with the rest of my suspension bushes. I don't have a press and couldn't budge any of the stock bushes with a bench vice and dies, but pressing new ones in with the vice was a piece of cake.

Except the front upper control arm bushes. Hammer and screwdriver got them out easily enough :happy:

yeah cutting them out aint a problem. i was worried about putting them in. i dont wanna buy a press for 1 job.

i suppose ill have to try to hammer them in, i got a mini sledge i could use. maybe if i grease them up theyll slip in easier.

steve

dont hammer them in, use 2 plates with holes in the centre, i piece of tube, and 1 long threaded rod with 2 bolts.

U put 1 plate on 1 side of the frame, put the bush where u want it pressed in, then fit the tube on top of the bush, then the plate. (this stops u pushing the centre out of the bush itself) Put the rod through the centre of it all and screw the nuts on either end..

Basically u do the nuts up to press it on...

freeze the bush before hand to make it easier and use a long wrench to tighten the nuts...

Edited by Bl4cK32
can't a portapowa be used for this?

Yes, but with special tools that you would have to make first.

Of course I left one possibility off;

#4, customer loyalty, where he does it for a good price because you are a regular customer

Until a 100 guys from the SAU forum turn up asking for the same price :huh::(:no:

Then he hates you and you won't get a good price ever again :P:):)

:D cheers :D

sweet idea!! those things i do have i the shed.

thanks for that.

dont hammer them in, use 2 plates with holes in the centre, i piece of tube, and 1 long threaded rod with 2 bolts.

U put 1 plate on 1 side of the frame, put the bush where u want it pressed in, then fit the tube on top of the bush, then the plate. (this stops u pushing the centre out of the bush itself) Put the rod through the centre of it all and screw the nuts on either end..

Basically u do the nuts up to press it on...

freeze the bush before hand to make it easier and use a long wrench to tighten the nuts...

Yes, but with special tools that you would have to make first.

For sure, but then you can take the press to the subframe instead of the other way around, it might save dropping the whole subframe. Of course this would only work if you can get sufficient clearance, never done it so not sure if this is possible.

  • 2 weeks later...

My Noltec subframe bushes are in. They can be had from Unique Autosports for ~$190.

Here's how I went about it.

In short the process of removal:

Wheels

Callipers and sat them on a box so they don't hang

Sway Bar (makes life easier)

Tail shaft

Exhaust cat back

Removed hicas lines from rear steer rack and tucked them out of the way

Disconnect Hand brake lines

The hicas wiring ran under the hand brake line, unplugged and replugged so it ran over the top

Diff (easy as, simply ran 2 ropes around under neath it (front and rear) attaching to the subframe and secured to my club lock on the other end, dropped the jack then let the ropes down slowly so it lowered the diff)

Placed a car jack (scissor) under each side of the subframe

Removed bolts and slowly let the subframe down.

Once it was at a reasonable hight I lifted each edge, kicked the jack out and placed the subframe back down

Dragged the subframe out and argggg... now for the bush removal.....

post-382-1172145159.jpg

----

Bush removal

I didn't have enough material on hand to make a solid support for the subframe when pushing bushes out.

The 2 rear bushes are really easy as they are just simple rubber bushes.

post-382-1172145173.jpg

The 2 front silicon filled bushes are a pain in the arse as they have 3 parts that need to be cut and then pushed out in succession. I tried cutting all the way through with one but the bush just didn't budge. I had to remove each ring in succession.

post-382-1172145167.jpg

It was quite easy simply drilling out the old rubber bush then using a hack saw to cut 2 small cuts completely through the metal roughly a cm apart. Then hit it with a suitable cold chisel and the metal simply peels back, roughly 3/4 the way down the bush starts to push out.

post-382-1172145179.jpg

Doing it this way they take roughly 1hr maybe a little more to remove all 4 bushes.

----

Bush Install

The 2 front bushes pressed in quickly and easily.

The rear 2 I was unable to get the press in without removing all the control arms etc so I grabbed a piece of 3" exhaust pipe, cut it down and smacked the sh*t out of it with a small sledgy. They went in fairly quickly to my surprise. Towards the end of the second the pipe began to fatigue and crush quickly with each hit.

post-382-1172146326.jpg

Bolt the diff in to the subframe before putting it back in to the car, use a trolley jack under the diff, 2 sizzor jacks under each side of the subframe and slowly raise the subframe. Easy as. :(

The hardest part about the whole thing.....

Removing those damn tail shaft bolts.

Everything else was fairly straight forward.

It’s definitely not hard and can easily be done by one person.

The subframe with axles etc all attached is light enough to be lifted by a single person so fear not peoples.

It’s really not as difficult as one (I) would think (thought). :D

I'm sure we can come to an arangement. :(

I believe you have just finished your brew. So a shortage of beers during the job won't be a problem. :D

-----------

It shall be interesting how the bushes increase NVH, especially as the R32 GTST diff's are solid mounted not bush mounted like the GTR's and R33's+

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • it takes so long to get things done but ... they are nearly there and we hitting the track soon again  So - at Perth Festival of Speed the car unfortunately had a decent off, wasnt me driving, wasnt the person drivings fault. Long story short car got sent very fast towards the wall without the control on throttle from the driver input and a disaster was averted but there was damage that needed to be fixed - carbon busted and alot of bent bits The splitter got munched and had to go back to get fixed - took a bit to get it there, fixed and back but got a surprise package when a new double element higher DF splitter came back - nice surprise !  and first person to have one     At a car show I took the car too some punks stole one of my carbon indicator blanks and stomped on the other so had to get a new set of headlight / indicator combo from tops stage so got front fender vents as well to put in the order     While all this was happening the new MCA golds turned up and did some fiddling around with those   Put in the flappy paddle system and clutch lockout wiring/ system   We have also put shorter gearing in top top it out at 300 kmph in 6th gear  where previously I held 5th to 282 at SMP and 277 in Perth   Looking for better control and faster acceleration     I wasnt intending on doing pedal box I was managing with the brake master replacement system I had going on and adjusted std pedals but on applying the clutch switch to the old system we found the *insert technical word here * bar that goes from the pedal to the master was bent about 40 deg and about to snap = lucky find otherwise be a bad bad time - discussion was had about getting a custom bar built to withstand the load but in reality it was time      making any suspension, wheel or anything adjustments to date has been a nightmare - aero off, adjust, check and repeat - time consuming and hard - short of going full airjack system we fashioned some external manual car lifts this will make life a million times easier     All the bent framing, some intercooler pipes and other has been fixed and replaced and after 6 months I finally have the car back at home in my control so its get to work on it, set ride heights, wheel align and will start track testing again soon   So ultimately other than a few flashy bits nothing actually looks likes its been done but in reality alot has. Typical   We'll see how all this goes        
    • I'm far from an expert, but for sticking bits of metal together occasionally I got a MIG, the biggest one I could get with a 10a plug (because while I have some 15a GPOs around, they are not everywhere).  Also, because I get through SFA, I just buy the small disposable gas bottles at Bunnings, I'm not opening a BOC account to get through 1/10th of a full size bottle each year
    • FWD is different though.
    • Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.
×
×
  • Create New...