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installing a front mount within the next couple weeks (going to do wonders for lag now hey LOL) plus a couple other bits npeices so when its all done i will take it to a tuner and ask him for a session on the dyno to check everything up... but as i said peak power seems good just that real lack of power between gear changes

hey fellas i might just be paranoid but i feel my skyline is not that quick at all, like i do not get any wheelspin on 1st if i take off normally than flatten it,. unless i hook a corner etc or rev dump it.

and cant break traction shifting into 2nd either unless i rev it with clutch in on gear change and let go

what i have a series 1 r33 gtst with turbo back exhaust, 10psi boost, FCD,gtr fuel pump,apexi pod in UAS box, standard side mount/computer/turbo/suspension, 225 nankangs on r34gtt rims

i have put it on the dyno before and got 175kw on a dyno dynamics dyno and about 153 on a mainline dyno

i have changed the spark plugs to new platinums and my coils are in good nick. no missing.... also changed fuel filter oil filter and oil 4000ks ago.

so what im asking is, does this sound right ? or should i be braking traction as i described before???

(i know its not really a good comparison by saying 'break traction' but yeah it gives you a rough idea)

was going to take it to wsid tonight but looked like rain so maybe next week

Dunno if anyone suggested this yet as I was too lazy to read all the posts...but it might be your clutch

lol at the Nankangs.

Funny thing is a mates gts4 making 270rwkw with an rb30det in it. He runs NS2 nankang 245/45/18's.

Drop it in rwd mode and the damn tyres hang on unbelievably, there is spin through first but second holds on right up until 5500rpm where it starts to chirp a touch until 7000rpm.

Its amazing what a set of new tyres will do for grip. Even if they are Nankangs. :(

Then there's mine on the other hand...

Was a stuffed diff.

No problems powering on and spinning all the way through second and third through the hills out of corners regardless of what tyres I ran.

A good diff makes a massive difference.

my car said 53k on the clock when i got in a few months ago, first owner here but it could have been wound back

but also every person/mechanic that saw it said it was in excellent condition so it could be true

nankangs are brand new well only a couple months old

and no it doesnt do fully sick seconds lol

  • 4 weeks later...

i've got 260kw now with 9.5inch rims and bridgestone 255's, and still dont break out in 1st, shift to 2nd and it will slide a bit but then it will holddd tight. i've got a 2 way diff though and still stock suspension so u guys reckon thats why it doesn't slide around as much as other people with my power

nothing wrong with nankangs

i used to be able to spin through first and second (265/35/18s) with my old falkens

nankangs dont spin at all

i was suprised how grippy they are

well im surprised how similar my toyo t1r's 205 compare to my hankook 275. i thought id be sliding all over the place but they hold verywell.

also i have noticed that at night with the cold air the rears light up in first when i come on boost. i have a fairly stock car, just turbo back exhaust with 169kw. not sure whats going on cause everyone else is saying that they dont loose traction even with heaps of power.....anyone got any idea what might be affecting it?

sound weird rev your car up at around 4-5000rpm and dump the clutch dont let it out a lil bit just dump it

or

drive in secound at around 60ks pump the clutch hold the revs on see how she goes if it doent spin then well you do have problems

power aint the problem if i could get my 50rwkw 202 vh commie to spin well and schnapp gears you should have a problem

I got an s2 33t, fmic, 3" turb back with split front / dump and the factory control mod which is really funny, holds higher amounts of boost but is still twin stage, just old high boost mode is low boost mode now an high boost mode is well higher.

265 kuhmo sports and i chirp seconds, hard luanchs dont spin unless i redline launch stil only chirp 2nd but have had it chirp 3rd once. meh if its wet she will loose all traction 1st-3rd if i floor it an get into meat of the power 4-5k rpm.

mine also hits rich an retard 4k+ rpms till 5k+ but comes back for 1k more, duno after that I never go over 6k rpms

p.s. I do have a quick shift kit an a nismo sticker on my newer 33gtr wing so atleast + nismo rain powa for fully sik burnouts!

Edited by gts-4 dreamer

another vote for nankang's dry grip. ive got 18/265's and they grip like muthafuukers. but be very very careful in the wet.

as far as CHIRP goes. chirp chirp. get on a dyno and check out ur power curve. u might have a sluggy/rich midrange.

ok here my story, iv got a s2 r33 with a fmic, full straight through exhaust, pod and bleed valve set to 10 psi, everything else stock, suspension ecu etc

i had the stockies on with hardly any tread on the back (225's) and i have never been able to chirp 2nd, obviously i could spin the tyres around a corner and drop the clutch for burnouts but yeh, if the car was rolling in first and i floored it, it would do nothing, i think the problem was the were inflated with a low psi cos yesterday i got 18 with 235's and now it chirps 2nd really easy and spins for a while after wards lol, the tyres are nankangs if that makes a difference

now technically shouldnt the 235's with new tread be harder to chirp or sumthin lol, im puzzled, i think it might be doing it cos they are inflated alot more the my stockies lol i dunno, thats the only explanation i can think of hehe

Chirping has everything to do with your driving style and how good your clutch and the rubber compound is.

Some rubber spins quietly while other rubber chirps.

Comparing one car to another is simply silly. Our beloved skylines are old. Their diff's are crappy Viscous that open wheel with age. The viscous design is crap to start off with anyway, inorder for it to lock and prevent spin it must first spin, once a wheel is spinning its difficult for it to gain grip again.

Which is why a good tight vlsd that reacts to the slightest slip will hook up MUCH better than one that allows more spin before providing torque to the opposite wheel.

*unsubscribes from this silly chirping thread* :pirate:

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