Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as topic state i have a hybrid fmic and about to install bleed valve. there is no hose going into the intercooler piping. did a search and ppl say they drilled a nipple into there intercooler piping. dont really want to do this. there must be a way to hook it up. any one done this b4? got any pics?

Theres a vac line coming from the throttle body down and under your intake pipe where your bov sits going to your carbon canistor, put a 3 way thingo (cant remember wtf they're called) and then go to your bleed valve there... or use the search button..

actually you need to make one up, do not put vacume to the wastgate, as the diaphram is not designed to work under vacume, it will get damaged. Best thing to do is to drill and tap the stock cast intake pipe, BEFORE the TB and put a screw in nipple into it. That is how i did mine, works well.

actually you need to make one up, do not put vacume to the wastgate, as the diaphram is not designed to work under vacume, it will get damaged. Best thing to do is to drill and tap the stock cast intake pipe, BEFORE the TB and put a screw in nipple into it. That is how i did mine, works well.

A nipple on the pipe would still have vacum?? woudlnt it?

actually you need to make one up, do not put vacume to the wastgate, as the diaphram is not designed to work under vacume, it will get damaged. Best thing to do is to drill and tap the stock cast intake pipe, BEFORE the TB and put a screw in nipple into it. That is how i did mine, works well.

Um... this doesn't make sense about the vacuume to the wastegate damaging the diaphram... doesn't the wastegate open and close on vacuume/boost pressure, isn't it designed like that from factory? And if you are right why does everyone that i've seen just run it from the vac hose, to the boost controller to the wastegate?

the hose that is supposed to go onto the intercooler piping is t-pieced into a hose that runs to where the intercooler pipe joins to the intake plenum if that makes sence. can i just join the bleed valve to that line. if that doesnt make sence ill get a pic later.

no as soon as boost pressure is released the spring forces the gate shut, there is no vacume on the setup, as the stock boost tap is placed before the TB. Introducing vacume to the diaphram can couse the diaphram to pull away from the shaft mounting plate thing, sorry can't remember the techincal name. If you do use a one way valve, ensure that it is placed before the tee peece bleed valve, otherwise you will get boost goign to the gate, and then it will stay open as it will still be under pressure.

boostcontfitqo8.jpg

the yellow line is the one that is supposed to be connected to the intercooler piping. if i put the bleed valve between the yellow line and the actuator i still dont see how it wont work because the standard boost control is hooked in there and why would the mechanic hook it up like that if its wrong.

boostcontfitqo8.jpg

the yellow line is the one that is supposed to be connected to the intercooler piping. if i put the bleed valve between the yellow line and the actuator i still dont see how it wont work because the standard boost control is hooked in there and why would the mechanic hook it up like that if its wrong.

As long as that hose has vacume pressure its the right one. Or am i wrong?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...