Jump to content
SAU Community

What's Your Idea Of A "bolt On" Turbo?

Ol_Mate

By Ol_Mate,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

  

55 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Ol_Mate Community Regular

Ol_Mate

Posted
Posted

I just bought a high flow turbo which I was told was a genuine bolt on job. Being fairly new to the scene I thought that bolt on meant it was pretty much a straight swap ie. no stuffing around with oil and water lines / fittings. Instead I get a turbo which isn't even close to being a straight swap. None of the stock oil/water lines match up and the turbo needs to be "clocked" so it matches up with the stock air inlet.

These are all questions I should have asked before I got the work done, isn't hindsight great.

Anyway, I just wanted to see what other peoples ideas of "bolt-on" were.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155503-whats-your-idea-of-a-bolt-on-turbo/
Share on other sites
Demoniak Proficient

Demoniak

Posted
Posted
well bolt on is.. straight on no mods.. custom is doin something different to make it work..

when u have to get new lines or something like that u cant classify that as straight on.. ur mucking around...

Tis bolt on if your engine can handle the turbo upgrade..

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
a turbo that requires some bolting requirements

LoL..

Is the HKS GT-RS kit with the oil water lines and all fittings and shit.. is that classified as bolt on? cos everything is designed to fit like the turbo and oil n water lines in the kit?

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted
I just bought a high flow turbo which I was told was a genuine bolt on job. Being fairly new to the scene I thought that bolt on meant it was pretty much a straight swap ie. no stuffing around with oil and water lines / fittings. Instead I get a turbo which isn't even close to being a straight swap. None of the stock oil/water lines match up and the turbo needs to be "clocked" so it matches up with the stock air inlet.

These are all questions I should have asked before I got the work done, isn't hindsight great.

Anyway, I just wanted to see what other peoples ideas of "bolt-on" were.

Cheers

bought off who?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i class it as 1 that you attach with bolts, rather than with say, glue or zip-ties.

but seriously, i would class it as oil and water lines screwing straight in, even if the oil line has to have 1 of the fittings drilled out to let more oil through (e.g. a slide highflow). and most importantly that it bolts up to your manifold.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Bolt on = bolts onto the stock gear.

Manifold, dump, intake pipings

If you need to mod a oil/water line, big deal. Its really not that hard.

I wouldnt count oil lines depending on the type of turbo (covered further on)

As for the turbo being "clocked" what you do mean?

One of the housings rotated? If so, thats pretty much gonna happen on any turbo as no-one is going to get it perfect for your car

Also depends what types of turbos (as i said earlier) ie Bush --> Ball bearing and vice versa.

If thats the case where your changing from one type of turbo to another (and reason for the oil/water mods) then its a bit of buyer research aswell as the seller IMO.

Two way street on that one as an owner you should really take a little interest in what they are purchasing :(

Can you give more details?

Type of turbo you had, type of turbo you have change too? etc?

Would kinda help us to give you a better idea maybe :)

Ol_Mate Community Regular

Ol_Mate

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The product is a direct competitor with the GCG highflow. Stock turbo to ball bearing highflow.

It was explicitly stated that no modifications to the stock lines were required. The only change needed was to change the banjo bolts (not the entire fitting, just the threaded part) because the thread on the new core was different.

The reality is the oil and water lines need to be changed, the oil drain needs to be modified and the wastegate actuator needs to be modified. The fittings provided look like they are designed for rubber hoses and as such, are completely useless.

I personally wouldn't call this a bolt on affair.

Thanks for the input.

Edited by Ol_Mate
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

if that is the case then it isn't a high-flow, it is a whole new turbo. it obviously isn't using the stock housing, otherwise it would just bolt back up.

i'm not aware of any other high-flows that use ball bearing other than the GCG. i know slide's are a bush bearing and it needs the hole in the banjo line drilled out to let more oil in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • trey318
      r34 gtt led globes

      By trey318 · Posted

      Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
    • KyoyaR33
      Rebuilt Rb25det issues

      By KyoyaR33 · Posted

      Howdy all,   I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues  Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted  The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?, changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off? much appreciated 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • GTSBoy
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Glad it eventually came out Duncan!   I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory 
×
×
  • Create New...