Jump to content
SAU Community

Urgent Help Needed

UWISSH!

By UWISSH!,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

UWISSH! Grand Master

UWISSH!

Posted
Posted

The other nite i got screwed over by the boys in blue and was defected for my car being too loud and my air filter. I since fitted a much quieter exhaust and when i went for my noise test today i still failed, car came in at 96db. Also with the filter, it is totaly boxed inu cannot c it and looks very professional. but have still been told its not correct wtf????? i have since been sent to get an emissions test done now and i got no idea what they are goin to look for?????? i have also been told to remove my intercooler as its suposably a defect???

If it helps my car is running the following

Apexi pfc

3" exhaust

fmic

550cc injectors

500hp fuel pump

Z32 afm

up2 19psi

pod filter

splitfire coil

high flowed turbo

If there is any1 out there who has had to go for these tests or no what they going to get me for your advice would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155516-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites
Rancher Community Regular

Rancher

Posted
Posted

In Queensland the standard DB for exhaust's is 90DB at 60% of your redline. So if you redline is 6000RPM, they will rev it to 3600RPM to get your DB. To pass you pretty much have to put your standard exhaust back on.

As for the Pod in the box. It is illegal unless the box fully seals when the bonet is closed. If it doesn't then defect. And everything is illegal. I dont think the intercooler is though. It will be if your bumper is off. But otherwise I'm sure its legal.

Get rid of your BOV. Put your standard injecters back in put your standard MAF back in and wind down the boost to like 7PSI and you shouldn't have a problem. Make sure you cat is good and still has the honeycombe stuff in it. and a couple of mufflers.

1995 EPA test's wern't that bad so if you do all of that, You shouldn't have a problem passing the EPA and defect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...