Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am low mounting a BLITZ K5-660R on my RB25 stroker i was wondering if i can put the Tial 38mm gate on the exhaust housing ( weld it on properly ofcourse) what will the con's and pro's be?

Where is the best physical spot for response/power * boost controll.

Edited by GTR-026tt

It's not an ideal solution but there are enough cars out there running this type of setup that you can be fairly sure it'll work to some extent.

I think you'd really want to get the outlet as close as possible to the exhaust housing inlet flange where the cross section is largest and it is less likely to completely stuff up the gas flow into the turbine.

Not ideal? Have a look at the old toyota factory GTP cars they run them all off the housing, best way to do it.

This is where you should put it so it doesnt obstruct flow, if you really want i can take a photo from corkey bell that shows it done exactly this way on the toyota race cars.

post-29334-1171063942.jpg

It depends on the size of the port in the flange, with the wasegate in the turbo housing, all the exhaust gas must pass through the flange, and can cause high ex manifold backpressure, although at these sort of power levels i cant imagine it being a major problem.

Not ideal? Have a look at the old toyota factory GTP cars they run them all off the housing, best way to do it.

This is where you should put it so it doesnt obstruct flow, if you really want i can take a photo from corkey bell that shows it done exactly this way on the toyota race cars.

post-29334-1171063942.jpg

If you want to argue i can refer to the same book and point out that the TAG f1 engine integrates the wastegate before the turbine inlet, as does every recent LMGT engine i have seen photos of. LMGT engines are arguable at the fore front of turbo engine development now, not 20 years ago.

As i said in the first place, not ideal but it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha ha, all good! I've almost caved in and realised I'm buying one.  I know myself well enough by now that I will start chasing ADHD butterflies half way through building it and not finish it so I'm better off spending the extra money buying one instead of making one just so I can get into straight away.  I would very much enjoy making one as fabrication is probably a strength and definitely a passion but I don't want that to be at the detriment to the car I'm ultimately building it for! There's some pretty good ones around for ~$1100 at the moment so I think I'll just go that way.  At the end I sell it or as mentioned, get another project to make further use of it! Thanks gents.  
    • That link was very helpful thank you.
    • That is the option code, not the VIN. Regardless all of that production is considered series 2: https://gtr-registry.com/en-ecr33-vin-table.php
    • Apologies if I sounded like a arse My point was that you will not be able to buy a rotisserie that suits your car, you get the rotisserie frame, and then fabricate parts to mount the rotisserie frame to the body The rotisserie side is easy, but the fabrication of the actual mounts is the tricky part, where to mount so you don't bend/twist the body, plus the geometry involved to get it to turn  If your capable at fabrication, and can work out where the C/L is in relation to the weight is so it actually can turn, you should be sweet I would love to see the progress on this just for the thought processes and fabrication   
×
×
  • Create New...