Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling Prob With Modified Stock Bov (flutter)

Rochey

By Rochey,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rochey Collaborator

Rochey

Posted
Posted

hey all,

i followed the diagram on the closed thread about modding the stock R33 bov to make it flutter.

and it sounds nuts but i am having problems with my car stalling.

it only happens if i bring the revs up and drop them fast. it ALWAYS stalls without fail.

e.g. im in first/second gear and i take the revs to 3-4 then push the clutch in. the revs drop to below 1 and it STALLs.

its fine if i rev them to 3-4 push clutch in, change gear and let out the clutch.

i thought perphaps adjusting my idle would stop it?

please help me because i cant leave this flutter on if my car is gonna keep stalling.

cheers all

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

its stalling cos you are dumping measured air to the atmosphere

the ecu doesnt know so its extra rich, cos its missing air

put the bov how nissan intended it

or get a bov stall hack device

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
please help me because i cant leave this flutter on if my car is gonna keep stalling.

You want a bit of wank factor, you get stall.

Thats just how life is.

Otherwise fork out for an aftermarket ECU and have it tuned out.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
its stalling cos you are dumping measured air to the atmosphere

the ecu doesnt know so its extra rich, cos its missing air

paul you really are a dick. learn to read.

Rochey: did you squash the top of the bov, or plug up the recirulation hose? either way you have stopped air from going the way it is supposed to so it is going back out the intake and being read twice, so the car is running rich.

you have 2 options. 1 will defiantely work, the other may not.

1) return the setup back to standard.

2) put a new set of spark plugs in. i know people with aftermarket atmo bovs that have no issues with stalling. they put the bov on, it made it stall a bit, they put new plugs in and it went away. i even had the stalling issue on my stock bov when my plugs were shagged.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
paul you really are a dick. learn to read.

Rochey: did you squash the top of the bov, or plug up the recirulation hose? either way you have stopped air from going the way it is supposed to so it is going back out the intake and being read twice, so the car is running rich.

you have 2 options. 1 will defiantely work, the other may not.

1) return the setup back to standard.

2) put a new set of spark plugs in. i know people with aftermarket atmo bovs that have no issues with stalling. they put the bov on, it made it stall a bit, they put new plugs in and it went away. i even had the stalling issue on my stock bov when my plugs were shagged.

Plugs stop stalling from a blanked off BOV?

:D

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
He followed the guide on how to make the stock BOV hold more pressure.

He isn't dumping air into the atmosphere at all.

Quite the opposite, he's letting NONE out!

Have a read. :D

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1457/article.html

Rochey Collaborator

Rochey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
paul you really are a dick. learn to read.

Rochey: did you squash the top of the bov, or plug up the recirulation hose? either way you have stopped air from going the way it is supposed to so it is going back out the intake and being read twice, so the car is running rich.

you have 2 options. 1 will defiantely work, the other may not.

1) return the setup back to standard.

2) put a new set of spark plugs in. i know people with aftermarket atmo bovs that have no issues with stalling. they put the bov on, it made it stall a bit, they put new plugs in and it went away. i even had the stalling issue on my stock bov when my plugs were shagged.

all i did was put a piece of tin between the stock bov and the manifold its connected too. i left the lil hose on the bov connected as i didnt see the point of disconnecting it and plugging it up if leaving it connectied to the bov would do the same thing.

so changing my spark plugs would do it ya recon?

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
Otherwise fork out for an aftermarket ECU and have it tuned out.

So an aftermarket ecu would prevent it from stalling even tho he would still have the afm there?

Or would it completely stop it from stalling if he had an ecu without a map sensor? but then he'd be screwed with cold start... you cant win just leave it plumb back

EDIT : Or buy a safc2 and get that tuned...

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i (and a few mates) had the stalling issue that everyone attributes to atmo bovs, except for the fact i have a 100% stock bov.

the reason that a new set of plugs may fix it is that if the old plugs are getting old they will be foulded and the gap may be bigger than needed. so by putting in a new set of plugs you get a stronger spark which will burn up the extra fuel.

new plugs have solved the stalling issue on a few different turbo cars i know, all but 2 with atmo bovs.

Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted
i (and a few mates) had the stalling issue that everyone attributes to atmo bovs, except for the fact i have a 100% stock bov.

the reason that a new set of plugs may fix it is that if the old plugs are getting old they will be foulded and the gap may be bigger than needed. so by putting in a new set of plugs you get a stronger spark which will burn up the extra fuel.

new plugs have solved the stalling issue on a few different turbo cars i know, all but 2 with atmo bovs.

Thats just a band aid fix (if it does work which i've never heard of)... to fix it properly you need a form of engine management like R31Nismoid said... safc2 is designed to help with this EXACT issue.. and your car will run better aswell...

EDIT : Please show proof of this band aid fix and how logically a spark plug can compensate for the amount of extra fuel thrown in to make it stall... i understand it for missfire but not for full on stalling.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
So an aftermarket ecu would prevent it from stalling even tho he would still have the afm there?

Or would it completely stop it from stalling if he had an ecu without a map sensor? but then he'd be screwed with cold start... you cant win just leave it plumb back

EDIT : Or buy a safc2 and get that tuned...

Sorry, a bit OT, but how does a map sensor stuff cold start(id really hate to own a $40,000 supra with cold start issues)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
    • alexburns
      GTR Festival (Aus) - 2025 - Stagea Alley

      By alexburns · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/15ZMn5oXtc/ Updated Event (so its not private and can be shared easier)  Attempting to coordinate a big push of Stagea's to this years GTR Festival. Great event last year and hoping for the same this year.  Discounted tickets 20% off for their various tickets until the 3rd of Feb Monday. Drags, show and shine etc.  I've emailed them to ask to set a location aside for the Stageas for the show and shine - they are happy to do so if we can get them numbers, I'm happy to keep track of that. Entering as Nismo category.  I'll be road tripping up from Melbourne, would be cool to convey if people are interested, maybe there is SAU convoys from each capital? If you have ideas about that let me know.  https://gtrfestival.com.au  
    • Skip33
      Series 2 R33 GTS25T?

      By Skip33 · Posted

      Does have series 2 airbag steering wheel and passenger side airbag also.
    • Skip33
      Series 2 R33 GTS25T?

      By Skip33 · Posted

      Do I have a series 2 or has someone spent money to have a series 1/1.5 look like a series 2? Everything I have read says the series 2 came out in 1996. I have a car manufactured in December 1995. The exterior, engine and interior are all series 2 other than the dash facia is series 1. Paint code is also kr4 that I believe is only available on a series 2. I have a VX Vehicle History Report and it says Grade: GTS25T TYPE M2 Manufacture date: 1995-12 Make: NISSAN Model: SKYLINE Body: E-ECR33 Grade: GTS25T TYPE M2 Engine: RB25DET Drive: 2WD Transmission: F5
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I went to Repco to get them to test the battery using their tester (not a volt meter), alternator shows 14.3v when running, and when the car was off after the it was on full load I think it was 12.6v but the guy said it was all good. Terminals are all clean, no corrosion. Though I coulda sworn when I tightened up my alternator belt the car idles a bit higher and the steering wheel shakes a bit until it's warmed up. I wanted to confirm for the earth cable/s, are you referring to the 2 wires that are bolted onto the frame rail under the battery? I might be overthinking this a bit.
×
×
  • Create New...