Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am still selling left overs from my car upgrade. Some items pulled out from the car some items did not get to use I will start with the NEW PARTS which are audio parts:

1. SONY X-plod XS-GT6947X 6x9 Speakers 400W new in box $ 85.00

post-26490-1171160265.jpg

2. SONY X-plod XS-GT6047 6.5" Speakers 250W new in box $75.00

post-26490-1171160510.jpg

3. SONY X-plod XM-444 Amplifier used 444W $175.00

post-26490-1171160627.jpg

4. BOSS Audio BA-4300 Amplifier used 1200W $120.00

post-26490-1171160710.jpgpost-26490-1171160730.jpgpost-26490-1171160753.jpg

5. R33 series 1 rotors one pair measuring around 29mm thickness, used $50

post-26490-1171160878.jpgpost-26490-1171160897.jpg

6. Standard RB25DET Blow out valve, used $40.00

post-26490-1171160964.jpg

7. TURBO Garrett T04E, require external wastegate, T03-T04 flange, used, gave me 191kw on standard internals, no tune $350 Drop to $300.00

post-26490-1171161190.jpgpost-26490-1171161218.jpgpost-26490-1171161239.jpg

8. RB25DET head gasket NEW $95.00

post-26490-1171161318.jpg

9. Standard injectors set (6pcs) removed from my RB25DET series 1 on upgrade $150.00 for the set.

post-26490-1171161381.jpg

10. Oil Temp Gauge AUTOMETER new in box, still sealed $120.00

post-26490-1171161501.jpgpost-26490-1171161537.jpg

11. Pillar for 2 gauges for R33 Skyline NEW never used $69.00

post-26490-1171161643.jpg

12. Standard RB25DET intercooler, R33 series 1 $20.00

post-26490-1171161758.jpg

All parts are in NSW, Sydney, more precisly ST. CLAIR. I would prefer to be picked up but if you like I can post them. If you want to know freight charges please message me with your post code and I will give you an estimate. Heavy parts would prefer to be picked up.

For more info on any items please do not hesitate to message me and you will get all the answers you need.

Cheers,

EUG.

interested in the turbo is it a straight fit in the stock replacment or is mods needed, Also is there anything wrong with it ie shaft play or anything like that???

to be honest is nothing wrong with it. The worst think is one stud missing on the air side. Will not fit on straight replacement. Please consider you need an external wastegate!!!! Just an old style Garrett turbo, non ballbearing.

Cheers,

EUGEN

Does anyone know whats the min thickness for front rotors? Last time I got mine machined it was down to minimum and they wont do them again. Wanting new set of DBA's but for $50 I'll take these if they will last a while.

Jordan,

I got those off because I replace them with DBA's. They costed me $599.00.

I sell those just because they just rusting now..sitting there.I think they are still pretty good

Cheers,

EUG.

Hi everybody,

Everything is negotiable....make me an offer I can not resist..and you got it...please have a closer look...

Cheers,

EUG.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...