Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The original Nissan build plate is blue (most cars have these on them still, some have them removed).

The green plate is the old compliancing scheme (pre 2005 I think?)

The purpley-pink sticker or plate is the new SEVS compliancing scheme.

  • 4 years later...

Recently bought a 2nd hand R32 GTR registerred in Victoria. Checked out RTA website and it all looks correct.

There is NO compliance plate.

VIN is engraved on strut tower (drivers side)

Will i have issues with the ID check? What do they expect you to do if the VIN is engraved?

Some more feedback from other peoples experiences would be good

Cheers

Recently bought a 2nd hand R32 GTR registerred in Victoria. Checked out RTA website and it all looks correct.

There is NO compliance plate.

VIN is engraved on strut tower (drivers side)

Will i have issues with the ID check? What do they expect you to do if the VIN is engraved?

Some more feedback from other peoples experiences would be good

Cheers

1989 Model?

Mine, my old 32GTR & a mates 89 R32 GTRs have no purple / green compliance plates.

All came in under 15 year rule (loop hole closed). I passed pits no worries cause the jap vin is on the system and it had been registered before.

Just grab the Jap vin, call REVS.

Edited by 10 4

My car is listed as a 92 model (VicRoads)

I did do a little more reading of the forum last night and found a purple/pink sticker on the passenger door jam, so things are starting to look OK

Need to get the car on a hoist and assess how much aftermarket gear i will have to revert to stock. The car looks fairly stock to me, exept for exhaust, BOV (very annoying), turbo timer, etc.

Do ppl have any issues with oil catch systems?

Anyway, Back on topic. My car appears to have a Pink/Purple sticker, however..

I read somewhere ppl having issue with an engraved VIN, rather than stamped? Can anyone shed some light?

purple sticker means its complied and ready for rego. take it to your local registrar and pay them. job done. it was the steel plated VIN tags that vicroads went nuts on. if it was stamped into the body then there usually was not a probelm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛
    • Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
    • Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing 
    • Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
×
×
  • Create New...